Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So i had to change my starter about a year ago and over the last few months every other start there would be a grind noise almost. The noise was as if the starter was loose but it wasnt. I was able to continue to start it until finally it the starter wouldn’t engage. Nothing to it all. So my boss helped me decide that I just needed a new starter Even though i just replaced it not even a year ago. As i was changing starter somehow I managed to rip the wiring out lf the harness for the crankshaft position sensor so it wouldn’t crank at all without that working properly so i ended up getting the harness off our black truck at the farm and that part should be good now but now i am not showing up any indicator on my gears but shifter is working i was under the truck while i had someone shift and its moving the cable and the selector and 

Without it showing a gear or to be in Park it wont  Crank what can I do

Posted

I'm assuming you have a 6.0l/4l80e in your 2500 classic, and if so, know that the transmission is electronically controlled, so it needs both the shifter cable (what you checked), as well as an electrical connector properly connected to the TCM for the transmission to function properly.

 

It sounds like you may have done more damage than you think to your wiring harness, as the gear indicator in the IP is electronically set (as in the TCM knows what gear you are in, and communicates to the IP [possibly via other computers] what gear you have selected).

 

You might want to get a good code reader (I would suggest a knockoff tech-ii or something like autogenuity w gm enhancement), that can talk to all the computers in your truck, to help sort out where the problem is.

 

Finally, I would suggest also examining the flexplate, as if the starter has been grinding for awhile, the flexplate may be damaged from the grinding, or possibly broken.

Posted

Flexplate looked fine to me but i dont guess I really know what to look for. Which code scanner would you recommend in my situation? 

Posted

After I bought my '04 Sierra 6 years ago, I bought Autogenuity w GM enhancement, as it could talk to all the computers, and also do diagnostic and testing procedures, such as pulsing the abs computer for bleeding it, and it has worked well for me for figuring out engine problems.  But now, if I were to start over, I'd by a knockoff tech-ii, with the programming interface (I think it's the MDI interface, but I'm not sure on that), as I'd give reprogramming my truck a try (I added 4wd to it, and I wanted to get the 4x4 indicate in the IP to light up, which requires reprogramming the IP).

 

I also bought the paper version of the full-service manual.  The online version is likely better (yay hyperlinks, as there's a lot of jumping around from section to section to fix most things), but I really don't like using a computer while my hands are all oily/greasing working on the truck.

 

Try to look at the center of the flexplate, to see if it's cracked at all.  If you have an inspection camera, that probably would work the best, but even using your phone camera to record a video while you pry a bit on the flexplate may show if it's cracked.  You might also try turning the engine a bit by prying on the flexplate teeth.  You might also verify that the starter gear goes out far enough to properly engage the flexplate.

Posted

Its funny you mention about the 4x4 drive indicator I just had a new transfer case put on about 2 or 3 months ago and i can only shift into 4lo that’s the only time the indicator for 4x4 pops up when i try 4hi the light doesn’t come on and the actuator doesnt engage… also would brake shift interlock keep from gear indicator working if there was to be a problem with it 

Posted

Having rebuilt a couple of NP261HDs, from what I recall of how it works, there's a plate that rotates based on what mode it's in (2wd, 4hi, n, 4lo), and it has notches that push in the 4wd sensor (there's 2 sensors, one for 2wd/4wd, the other for hi/lo).  Given that it's working for 4lo, you might try removing the 4wd sensor, cleaning it and the mounting surface on the TC to make sure it's fully screwed in.  You might also test it with a ohmmeter shifting between 2wd/4hi/4lo.

Posted

 
and the sensors are on TC? It’s manual stick just thought I would add that. Ive been having hell finding a code reader. And now my battery is pretty much drained im in the process of getting new battery 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I find it amusing the OP doesn’t realize this threads heading includes several engines. He should have posted in the off topic section if he wanted a more narrow focus. I really appreciate and find amusing that he actually pointed out one of my many vehicles. The Odyssey. That happens to use 0-20 oil. I love pushing his buttons. 
    • Maybe, but it seems he is the only one that has backed up data to prove what he is stating. I think he is doing this more because he enjoys it and wants to get the information out to us. He's got the knowledge and access to the proper equipment and having the funds doesn't hurt.  I would love to do what he is doing and would do it if and when I hit the Powerball.  I'm not a Tribologist by any means but love to learn what I can.   I would bet there would be doubting people out there if a completely independent lab with high quality work and highly respected in the automotive industry, put out information like this.  The world can't be pleased, one just has to take the information that they are given, do more of their own research to find actual lab data to back up what they are trying to figure/find out.  Most don't bother, they just want to believe what they first see.     I don't have the minimax but my 6.2 in my 2019 Silverado with 64k miles shows excellent UOA results with 0w-20 and for my own purposes 5w-20.  Since not much of a change using 5w. I liked the data sheet information on the SS 5w-20 and figured I would give it a try.  Still the same viscosity at 100℃.   In the end we all just do what makes us happy, life is too short to get upset over trivial social media.   On a side note, I do feel GM has dropped the ball and just cares about the bottom dollar and not quality anymore.  "Like a Rock" has been long gone.  Seems "Built Ford Tough" has as well.
    • Better than stock but that's like putting lipstick on a pig
    • Hello, my 3 month old Sierra Elevation wont recognize a trailer with electric brakes? All the lights work correctly, but no power to the brakes?   This is the factory installed brake controller. If you manually push the knob, the display shows the power % but does not light up like my 2022 silverado.   I have an appointment with the dealer, but was checking to see if anyone else has seen this issue.    Thanks, 
    • Been using SS 0w-20 from new, but wanted to change to the 5w-20 because I liked the data on the data sheet, to me it seems like a little better product. But as you can see, not much difference. This is also with running a mix of 10 gallons E85 to a tank topped with 93. It isn't a flex fuel vehicle so any higher I get a CEL for running lean on both banks. Yes my mileage takes a hit. Instead of 20 mpg I normally get on trips I get 17mpg. This is also using EaO17 filter.  What is amazing is I have the AMSOIL cone filter on it since I have the GM Performance intake installed and that air filter has 44k miles on it.  I just take it out and shop vac it off once a year.  I use the upholstery tool on my shop vac.  Works well.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...