Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Just an updated pic with the exhaust removed.

 

** There's something hiding under there behind the axle **

 

274009897_2067502030085218_3160350732200125793_n.jpg

Edited by Regan Menzies
Posted

Had to cut away some plastic and a little bit of the radiator core support for the intercooler fitment. Made some brackets and bolted her down.

273932310_2067661256735962_5449585196204116279_n.jpg

273884058_2067661306735957_863466462132933951_n.jpg

273877637_2067661353402619_3334602050679791354_n.jpg

273875222_2067661386735949_2980595659061914733_n.jpg

273897389_2067661420069279_9217213161115324508_n.jpg

Posted
Left to right:
AEM X-series OBD Wideband.
AEM X-series Boost Controller.
Glowshift Turbo Oil Pressure.
Glowshift Turbo Oil Temperature.

273731154_2067633066738781_4927703719906037385_n.jpg

Posted

Made the Y pipe from stainless steel 45 degree mandrel bends. Heavily titanium wrapped and coated to retain the heat.

273957136_2068534436648644_8382283348379773910_n.jpg

273960359_2068534503315304_1048364713754139776_n.jpg

Posted

Onto the turbo portion. Here's where it gets really fun... Many hate on rear mounted turbos but hey to each their own. I prefer to have the heat out of the engine bay and no clutter in case I need to work on something. A few random parts.

273899753_2067615240073897_6816594968747941259_n.jpg

273906005_2067615213407233_116596610645500512_n.jpg

273887885_2067615276740560_1027416825713393045_n.jpg

273884062_2067615310073890_8885532678854436004_n.jpg

273868089_2067615343407220_4306756362423321355_n.jpg

273877719_2067615573407197_5595279267147882339_n.jpg

273873590_2067615930073828_819671948263546955_n.jpg

274062531_2067614523407302_597086539381618389_n.jpg

273875205_2067615100073911_6476621797625687286_n.jpg

273866598_2067615153407239_7059712220296156669_n.jpg

273905116_2067615190073902_4930780197544188364_n.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
Just about done with turbo. My divorced oiling system is complete, purged and tested with constant 40 psi.
 
Ran out of titanium wrap and had a extra spool of fiberglass wrap for the muffler. Figured why not.. Now I just have to coat it all with the black silicone coating once it dries to help protect it.
 
I just have a couple more welds to finish the other half of my 4" piping from the turbo back to the 5" tip and pipe my wategate back into the exhaust after the turbo. Then weld my MAF & wideband bungs. Then back to the dyno.

273949860_2068537539981667_8504284988144272019_n.jpg

273964018_2068537569981664_5424957374031726996_n.jpg

273963974_2068537609981660_584330421817989354_n.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Fitment of the 4" piping was pretty tight but the spare tire still fits just like factory. I kept the drain simple by making it gravity like any front mount turbo. Can't go wrong there. No need for check valves or 2 pumps.

275289933_2083847301784024_2189798495486180741_n.jpg

275352347_2083847145117373_2368121309762637085_n.jpg

275356291_2083847345117353_1106447935592237020_n.jpg

Posted
2 Breather tanks and 1 catch can setup. May seem overkill but it beats not being good enough!
1/2" hose to each valve cover.
1/2" hose to 2019+ oil fill tube w/ an10 180 fitting.
3/8" hose to gutted PCV valve tapped with a 1/4" npt 1/2" barb.

274956432_2080222782146476_8291134639943677982_n.jpg

274991446_2080222848813136_3533464690044841494_n.jpg

274980079_2080222915479796_6446352086434653811_n.jpg

274949388_2080222945479793_1185304892067830025_n.jpg

Posted

Turbo setup is done for the most part... few things in the tune need dialed in. Completed the 4" stainless exhaust with 2 mufflers and 1 resonator, all coming to a 5" tip. I wanted her quiet and it surprised me how quiet it is!

274742971_2077900292378725_2827746398121486753_n.jpg

274737981_2077900329045388_7880609562435414810_n.jpg

Posted

cant wait to see your dyno numbers..

 

when will you dive into the transmission?  I hear the 8 speed is the hot set up if you can source one... otherwise you got some upgrades and beefing up to do on the 6l80

  • Like 1
Posted

Very nice build.  I have the same TSP cam in my L86 with some porting on my heads.  I hope to have boost soon but I just had to pull the engine mysellf from two spun rod bearings.  So I had to spend my boost money on pistons and rebiulding the engine.  It's almost back together.  It's just hard to get parts right now.

 

But hey now I have a new crank with Forged Diamond pistons on stock rods.

 

I'm curious how you like that cam with boost?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 3/30/2022 at 2:54 PM, pokismoki said:

cant wait to see your dyno numbers..

 

With the VS Racing Billet 75/65 turbo, it made 505 WHP at only 7 PSI. The graph showed how restrictive the turbo was in the higher RPM's due to the smaller turbine so I swapped the turbo out for a On3 Billet 78/75. I plan on putting the truck on the dyno again this weekend.

Edited by Regan Menzies
Posted
On 3/30/2022 at 2:54 PM, pokismoki said:

when will you dive into the transmission?  I hear the 8 speed is the hot set up if you can source one... otherwise you got some upgrades and beefing up to do on the 6l80

I don't plan on doing transmission work for now so I am keeping it in its safe limits around 500 WHP. I plan on keeping the 6L80 for now. Other than the huge cooler, external filter and the lower temperature thermostat, I'm going to leave it alone for about a year or so. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...