Anyone have photos of the OEM EGR smooth fender flares?

mikeyk101 · November 26, 2021

I'm not a huge fan of fender flares but recent events got me thinking about them. I have a choice of either around $900 and a visit to the local body shop or pick up a set of the OEM fender flares for just under $300. I know doing it right is the best way but from looking at the advertising photos for the 19303288 fender flares, they look like they would cover what I need.

So I am asking if anyone who has added the OEM EGR smooth fender flares could post photos so I can compare how much past the fender they cover. I don't like the ones that have the fake bolts, I would be leaning towards the smooth styled ones. But they both appear to be about the same size so photos of either installed would be greatly appreciated. They appear to be fairly wide which would be good.

This is what I am looking at covering and protecting

Here is a stock photo that appears to be of the rear but seems fairly wide

And here is a view of the set uninstalled.

Edited November 26, 2021 by mikeyk101

mikeyk101 · November 30, 2021

Well I decided to go ahead and give these fender flares a chance. Under the specs, they are listed at 6" wide and I think that would work. But when I started to price them, I was a bit surprised. I found a good price on gmpartsgiant.com at $280 but when I went to check out, they wanted $175 just for standard shipping. Then I went to gmpartsdirect.com and they were worse. Fender Flares were at $346 and then they wanted $357 for shipping! WTF! So then I went on ebay and was able to purchase these exact OEM/EGR ones for $398 and free shipping. And would you believe that the seller is gmpartsdirect? Then after doing this, I got the bright idea to give Chevrolet.com a quick check in the accessories section. Had I done that first, I would have saved myself about $60. They had them listed at $399 and there is an available coupon for 20% off. Shipping was going to be through FedEx starting at $260 but there were 2 other options. I could select a local dealer and use the Dealer Installation at $115 or select Pickup at dealer at no additional cost. If I had ordered direct from Chevy, I would have selected the pickup option.

I understand that these are bulky items but I am floored by the shipping charges. At least now I know a way to save some money on shipping charges for the future. Once I get them I will try to find time to get them on and update with some photos. Still not sure if I'm going to like the look but I'm committed now...

silveradosid · December 1, 2021

considering doing the same thing just because of stone chipping, waiting to see pics

MikeBMW · December 2, 2021

On 11/30/2021 at 1:55 AM, mikeyk101 said:

I could select a local dealer and use the Dealer Installation at $115 or select Pickup at dealer at no additional cost.

I've bought many items through the Chevy app, both on my phone and online via computer.
At times, I choose dealer install (tow mirrors, camera system [tow mirror cams, front cam, bed cam, trailer cam], replacement Chevy black wheels and tire pressure monitors, among others, at other times I just pick it up at the dealer and install myself (roll-back bed cover, splash guards all around, full protection floor mats, rear under-seat lock box, bed extender, among other items)
Both my parts guys and my service guy at the dealership have come to know me by name when I walk in as I always choose ship-to-dealer with no cost shipping.

Edited December 2, 2021 by MikeBMW
A few typing errors - fat fingering the keyboard tonight ...

jshrubs · December 3, 2021

On 12/1/2021 at 6:57 AM, silveradosid said:

considering doing the same thing just because of stone chipping, waiting to see pics

I put small flares on mine for this reason. Had stone chips on the rear inner lips of both wheel wells. Had it repaired properly at a body shop and the following year had new rusted stone chips in the same spots. Went back to the body shop but this time I installed flares and wheel well liners after to prevent stone chips.

mikeyk101 · December 3, 2021

The flares have been delivered to my other place and I will be headed up there tonight. I will be putting these on tomorrow and will finally know one way or the other if it's going to work. I will post some photos afterwards to show the final result.

Meanwhile, when I'm doing this, I think I want to try and remove the inner fender lining and see if I can possibly tap some of the dent out. It will still have the scrapes though as there isn't much I will be able to do about those. I am going to try using the end of a small piece of 2x4 and a hammer and try to tap some of it out. But I haven't looked too far into what it will take to remove the inner fender lining or at least the front part to access the backside if the front of the fender. Any tips or clues on this or can someone give me an idea of how difficult it will be?

M1ck3y · December 3, 2021

1 hour ago, mikeyk101 said:

The flares have been delivered to my other place and I will be headed up there tonight. I will be putting these on tomorrow and will finally know one way or the other if it's going to work. I will post some photos afterwards to show the final result.

Meanwhile, when I'm doing this, I think I want to try and remove the inner fender lining and see if I can possibly tap some of the dent out. It will still have the scrapes though as there isn't much I will be able to do about those. I am going to try using the end of a small piece of 2x4 and a hammer and try to tap some of it out. But I haven't looked too far into what it will take to remove the inner fender lining or at least the front part to access the backside if the front of the fender. Any tips or clues on this or can someone give me an idea of how difficult it will be?

Not difficult at all, just a matter of removing the screws holding it in place. You'll probably want to pull the tire off to give yourself some room to work on the dent.

If the metal is exposed on the outside you might want to look at putting some kind of coating or paint over it in order to prevent rust from setting in (which will spread).

Edited December 3, 2021 by M1ck3y

mikeyk101 · December 4, 2021

4 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

Not difficult at all, just a matter of removing the screws holding it in place. You'll probably want to pull the tire off to give yourself some room to work on the dent.

If the metal is exposed on the outside you might want to look at putting some kind of coating or paint over it in order to prevent rust from setting in (which will spread).

I do have a small bottle of touch up paint that came with the color matched topper that I was going to give a try to covering the bare spots. But of course, I forgot to bring it with, doh! On a positive note, I have now had an opportunity to place the flare kit up against the fender and they are pretty beefy. They easily cover the ding so I may just leave it for now and worry about it at a later date. I will just see how ambitious I feel about it tomorrow. Still not sure how I will feel about having fender flares on my truck but will see them installed tomorrow. Good thing is they are no drill so shoyld be easily reversible if I don't like them...

M1ck3y · December 4, 2021

Looking forward to see how it turns out! I've been wanting to get rid of my mudflaps but I need to hide the holes (and rust proof) from the 1/4" screws they put in. And probably go to a full coverage/low profile running board to protect the rockers.

I'm just not sure how it will look if I go with something like a pocket fender flare when wheels are a +1 offset. Not a -30 something that's probably needed to make them flush.

mikeyk101 · December 4, 2021

Well they are on. Not the greatest fit but pretty sturdy. They fully cover my little booboo so it is no longer visible. I ended up leaving it alone instead of trying to pop it back out.. I did spray on some Turtle Wax car wax on it though prior to installing the flares. Not sure how much that will protect it but I figured it couldn't hurt. As far as the mud flaps, these retain the factory mudflaps and kind of fit around them.

There is a rubber gasket that goes around the entire edge prior to install. It is a bit tedious getting it on and you have to make sure that it fits over the lip the entire way. It is secured by some 3m tape. When fitting the flares on, you have to make sure not to pinch or roll it so that it fits properly. The 2 front flares were very simple. Remove 3 T15 screws, attach 2 brackets with 2 of those T15 screws (I didn't tighten them all the way), secure the flares to the brackets with 2 Phillips head screws, make sure to get flares in final position then tighten down the T15 bracket screws, put the remaining T15 screw back into the factory mudflap and push on a black clip supplied with install kit to front part to secure that. Those went quick.

The rears took a little more time. A T15 screw in front mudflap and T15 in rear needs to be removed. No brackets, just gets secured to lip of wheel opening with several clips but it fits partially between the factory mudflap on front of wheel well. Surprisingly this took a bit longer to install and the drivers side was the most difficult for some reason. It was hard to get the clips on and I ended up just getting them started and then just tapped them on fully with a hammer. The rubber gasket around the fuel door cutout kept trying to fold under but I finally got that.

Overall not a difficult install. The material matches very closely to the air dam below the front bumper. I think overall it looks OK but we shall see after having them on a bit. They really don't show up well on pictures but are more visible in person...

Edited December 4, 2021 by mikeyk101