rear engine seal cost

[Jworks]

I've got an oil leak on 2011 Sierra 4x4, 6 speed trans, 5.3 engine, and I was told I needed a rear engine seal.  Labor will be $575 (plus parts).  Yikes.  Does this sound in line?

Edited November 29, 2021 by Jworks

[shakenfake]

Yes that sounds about right. Although you can do it for free if you do it yourself. I just did mine lol

[newdude]

Yep.  $115/hr at my local Chevy dealer, 5.6hrs of labor in the book.  So just your labor is a bit less than $644 using the $115/hr.  

 

If its the rear main, figure about $30 for that, plus exhaust gaskets and the transfer case to transmission gasket if its 4x4.  The flywheel bolts are typically one time use as well.  

Edited November 29, 2021 by newdude

[shakenfake]

What exhaust gaskets?

Flexplate bolts are not one time use

[Jworks]

Thank you fellows.  I didn't know the cost.  I figured it would be much higher at a dealership (which it probably would be some, but maybe not by miles....who knows.  I have it at a local trans shop and they will be putting it in.  I don't have the ability to put it in myself.  I would think at a dealership this would be $650 labor, or more.  And then parts would be regular GM parts.  The trans shop is using NAPA parts which I don't have a problem with.  I'm just guessing here, but I would imagine the dealership cost would be $400-500  more than the shop I'm using.

 

 

Edited November 30, 2021 by Jworks

[redwngr]

On 11/30/2021 at 9:29 AM, Jworks said:

Thank you fellows.  I didn't know the cost.  I figured it would be much higher at a dealership (which it probably would be some, but maybe not by miles....who knows.  I have it at a local trans shop and they will be putting it in.  I don't have the ability to put it in myself.  I would think at a dealership this would be $650 labor, or more.  And then parts would be regular GM parts.  The trans shop is using NAPA parts which I don't have a problem with.  I'm just guessing here, but I would imagine the dealership cost would be $400-500  more than the shop I'm using.

 

 

Dealer would likely be happy to quote if you want comparables

[newdude]

On 11/29/2021 at 7:59 PM, shakenfake said:

What exhaust gaskets?

Flexplate bolts are not one time use

 

 

Many times they are, that's the only reason I mentioned it.  Service manual does allow for reusing so long as new loctite is installed on the threads.  They are a 3 pass fastener still so if it were my truck, it would get new bolts.

• Tighten the bolts (1–6) a first pass in sequence to 20 Y (15 lb ft).
• Tighten the bolts (1–6) a second pass in sequence to 50 Y (37 lb ft).
• Tighten the bolts (1–6) a final pass in sequence to 100 Y (74 lb ft).

 

As for the exhaust, the y pipe has to come down to remove the trans.  There are two seals at the y pipe to manifold connections, one big donut style on the right side, a metal ring style on the left that are 1 time use.  Also, I'd get the clamp at the rear of the y pipe as that would get cut off if it was a 10 year old rust state truck for sure.  

[shakenfake]

On 12/4/2021 at 7:44 AM, newdude said:

 

 

Many times they are, that's the only reason I mentioned it.  Service manual does allow for reusing so long as new loctite is installed on the threads.  They are a 3 pass fastener still so if it were my truck, it would get new bolts.

• Tighten the bolts (1–6) a first pass in sequence to 20 Y (15 lb ft).
• Tighten the bolts (1–6) a second pass in sequence to 50 Y (37 lb ft).
• Tighten the bolts (1–6) a final pass in sequence to 100 Y (74 lb ft).

 

As for the exhaust, the y pipe has to come down to remove the trans.  There are two seals at the y pipe to manifold connections, one big donut style on the right side, a metal ring style on the left that are 1 time use.  Also, I'd get the clamp at the rear of the y pipe as that would get cut off if it was a 10 year old rust state truck for sure.  

Three pass fasteners do not mean you need new ones. It is when you torque to yield with a degree you have to get new ones.

If that was the case then ARP head bolts, which are three pass bolts, would be useless since you couldn't reuse them.

 

You don't need to remove the y-pipe for the trans, you aren't pulling the trans out you just need to push it back a little bit.

The donut style ring, I think is on the drive side, that is not one time use. The passenger side does not have a gasket that I know of, never used one either.

[newdude]

12 hours ago, shakenfake said:

Three pass fasteners do not mean you need new ones. It is when you torque to yield with a degree you have to get new ones.

If that was the case then ARP head bolts, which are three pass bolts, would be useless since you couldn't reuse them.

 

You don't need to remove the y-pipe for the trans, you aren't pulling the trans out you just need to push it back a little bit.

The donut style ring, I think is on the drive side, that is not one time use. The passenger side does not have a gasket that I know of, never used one either.

 

 

Well I guess GM's own service manual is just telling lies then...

 

 

[shakenfake]

I never knew the metal gasket needed replacement I am guessing that the tightening down of the metal causes it to change shape. I figured if there was a gasket on the other side it would need it but I've never replaced them before. Good to know 

[Silverado4x4]

13 hours ago, shakenfake said:

Three pass fasteners do not mean you need new ones. It is when you torque to yield with a degree you have to get new ones.

If that was the case then ARP head bolts, which are three pass bolts, would be useless since you couldn't reuse them.

 

You don't need to remove the y-pipe for the trans, you aren't pulling the trans out you just need to push it back a little bit.

The donut style ring, I think is on the drive side, that is not one time use. The passenger side does not have a gasket that I know of, never used one either.

newdude knows what he is talking about, he works at a GM dealership.

[shakenfake]

I believe him but you don't need to pull the trans all the way out for the rear main which means you don't need to pull the y-pipe. Nor do you need to get new fasteners just because they require a three pass torque pattern.

 

The donut gasket I never knew to be a one time use though. I've always just reused the old one and I don't think I've put one back on so I'll keep those in mind