Jump to content

Welcome To My Nightmare....2016 GMC Sierra, Crew Cab SLT

doropallo
 Share

Recommended Posts

doropallo Enthusiast

doropallo

Posted
Posted

At the end of September my check engine light came on and the email from OnStar (basic) stated the transmission needed to be looked at.  I made an appointment at the local dealer (I have an extended warranty) and 3 hours after I dropped it off, 7PM, I'm getting phone calls from the local police about the truck, did I lend it out, along those lines. I said no the truck is supposed to be at the dealership for service. Turns out some guy walked into the dealer and grabbed some keys and mine was the lucky one that got stolen. It was recovered within an hour because the guy was driving on a flat tire on the wrong side of the road. He hit something and did $17,000 worth of damage.

 

So the dealership has a body shop and everything is repaired, but the initial service work is never performed, because alas its not showing any codes. I pick it up and was driving it for about a week when I stepped on the gas to accelerate and change lanes and the truck basically looses electric, stalls momentarily, screen goes dark and then kicks back in. I call and make another appointment to drop it off.  Here's another strange quirk, when I drive with the headlights and on the voltage gauge reads around 14 volts, when I turn the lights off it immediately drops to 12 volts and stays there.  Service calls and says that is normal (my truck never did that before) and there are no codes in the voltage areas of the truck.  I guess no one can really troubleshoot any more, don't need meters to read volts or ohms or solid connections. Another thing I noticed since I got it back is that the mileage is 3mpg lower. And yet my truck is fine. Now I'm just frustrated and at a loss of what to do .  I was planning on driving the truck to Georgia but I don't have any confidence I'll make it out of Jersey anymore.  Truck has 67,441 current miles on it.

 

Rant over.

  • Sad 4
dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted

I couldn't trade it in fast enough. 

In fact I would have told the dealer when the truck was repaired that they will be taking it on trade for a new truck and never see it again.

I'd never go back there again either. 

What dealer just leaves keys laying around?

  • Like 1
M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted (edited)

I feel for you, I would have gone off the deep end if that happened to me. I think with everything that's taken place, you don't have too many options left. You can trade it in like diesel said, or you can drive it until it throws another code.

 

Shouldn't onstar have a record of what the vehicle was complaining about? I'm also wondering if perhaps the notice wasn't a problem, but part of regular maintenance. Maybe you hit the mileage gm recommends a transmission flush?  

Edited by M1ck3y
doropallo Enthusiast

doropallo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I really don't want to trade it in, there's hardly anything out there and I don't want a payment. I'll definitely check the code next time. Getting all pissy and worked up doesn't get far these days. It sounds like a lot of damage but I got 2 new headlights and a new grill and bumper, right there is 6 grand. Freaking lights are 1500 each. Lots of little stuff. I'm just disappointed that there aren't any good techs out there.

  • Like 1
M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, doropallo said:

I really don't want to trade it in, there's hardly anything out there and I don't want a payment. I'll definitely check the code next time. Getting all pissy and worked up doesn't get far these days. It sounds like a lot of damage but I got 2 new headlights and a new grill and bumper, right there is 6 grand. Freaking lights are 1500 each. Lots of little stuff. I'm just disappointed that there aren't any good techs out there.

 

There is a lot of good techs out there.

lovecars Enthusiast

lovecars

Posted
Posted

 

 

 

 Sorry for the long post.... but I felt some things have to be said about the sad state of affairs at GM with their light duty trucks.. 1500-2500

 

On the soap box

 

There is no better time to get rid of it.

My 2017 that I owe 20,000 on it, is worth 35,000 plus.

Of course there is no way to replace it in this market.

But if you are willing to buy a beater. youll have money for a down payment on a new on next half of 2022.

I've always leased my truck because I'm self employed and could write it off. Now I'm semi retired and the business can not afford the leased truck. So I bought the one I have now. 

I regret it because although I love chevy trucks, they are becoming total pieces of ******, specially the ones we get in the West Coast from Silao Mexico. horrible quality control. luckily I know my way around cars/trucks/computers/etc... so I'm not too scared..

So my recomendation is DO NOT buy another one, lease it if you drive less than 15000 miles a year.

GM has been on rush to catch up to Ram trucks and Ford trucks. so instead of spending 3-4 years on testing and getting all the bugs out, from 2016 on they started selling trucks that were only road tested for 2 or so years. So we customers become beta testers for GM. 

Now as the newer trucks come out since the architecture has been the same for the last four or so years.. then the bugs have been worked out pretty much... 

The Achilles heel are the transmissions...

Would you guys believe that a partership between Ford and Chevrolet worked on the new multispeed transmissions for three or so years.. Multi speed = 6 spd to 12 spd

Ford came out with them 5 years ago, even the mustang had an 8 speed and I think now a 10 speed.

Meanwhile the same F****g transmissions GM can't get them to survive 100,000 miles on the 1500's trucks.

 

Most of the thing's I've mentioned are available on Google or on SAE.org (Society of Automotive Engineers. 

 

OK I'm off the soap box

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted

Did you have the opportunity to turn the theft into your insurance???

 

Or was everything just handled (theft, recovery, police report) handled through the dealership?

 

Was awfully nice of them to just do $17000.00 worth or repairs on their dime. Something does not sound right. 

  • Like 1
JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, lovecars said:

 

 

 

 Sorry for the long post.... but I felt some things have to be said about the sad state of affairs at GM with their light duty trucks.. 1500-2500

 

On the soap box

 

There is no better time to get rid of it.

My 2017 that I owe 20,000 on it, is worth 35,000 plus.

Of course there is no way to replace it in this market.

But if you are willing to buy a beater. youll have money for a down payment on a new on next half of 2022.

I've always leased my truck because I'm self employed and could write it off. Now I'm semi retired and the business can not afford the leased truck. So I bought the one I have now. 

I regret it because although I love chevy trucks, they are becoming total pieces of ******, specially the ones we get in the West Coast from Silao Mexico. horrible quality control. luckily I know my way around cars/trucks/computers/etc... so I'm not too scared..

So my recomendation is DO NOT buy another one, lease it if you drive less than 15000 miles a year.

GM has been on rush to catch up to Ram trucks and Ford trucks. so instead of spending 3-4 years on testing and getting all the bugs out, from 2016 on they started selling trucks that were only road tested for 2 or so years. So we customers become beta testers for GM. 

Now as the newer trucks come out since the architecture has been the same for the last four or so years.. then the bugs have been worked out pretty much... 

The Achilles heel are the transmissions...

Would you guys believe that a partership between Ford and Chevrolet worked on the new multispeed transmissions for three or so years.. Multi speed = 6 spd to 12 spd

Ford came out with them 5 years ago, even the mustang had an 8 speed and I think now a 10 speed.

Meanwhile the same F****g transmissions GM can't get them to survive 100,000 miles on the 1500's trucks.

 

Most of the thing's I've mentioned are available on Google or on SAE.org (Society of Automotive Engineers. 

 

OK I'm off the soap box

Sounds like you are in the market for a 2022 Tundra, let us know how you like it......

  • Like 1
Yotaman Enthusiast

Yotaman

Posted
Posted

I feel for you. The stolen and damaged really sucks I would be livid with the dealer but damm criminals today letus not even get started. Do a search on Ground 218 on this site. It sounds like you may have that issue and if it is that the good news is it is a easy fix. best of luck and keep us updated.

 

22R

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Truckboattruck Enthusiast

Truckboattruck

Posted
Posted

That's some rotten luck getting it stolen, further still with the issues you've been having. I bought used at about 100k miles a week ago and am having some rotten luck with the brake system and tranny, getting it warrantied for the last three days. Seems they are both common issues, my dumb butt thought just because I see twenty examples of decade old models on the road every day that they would be just as reliable more recently in production. I feel your pain.

doropallo Enthusiast

doropallo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 hours ago, Yotaman said:

I feel for you. The stolen and damaged really sucks I would be livid with the dealer but damm criminals today letus not even get started. Do a search on Ground 218 on this site. It sounds like you may have that issue and if it is that the good news is it is a easy fix. best of luck and keep us updated.

 

22R

Funny how I searched Google for g218 and there's a TSB on it, the exact same symptoms my truck is having.  I can't believe a good tech would miss it. I'm dealing with the managers of 2 departments at the same time. Funny how I'm getting better responses from the body shop guy, he's pissed they gave me the truck back without his department detailing it.

Yotaman Enthusiast

Yotaman

Posted
Posted

I have a 2014 Sierra 5.3 it was recalled 21 times and luckily I have not had any engine or transmission issues. I have had the cycling thermostat, AC condenser and right now I am going to replace my front control arms cause the ball joints are getting loose. It is ashamed I really the looks of the truck, the interior and the fuel economy but I do not have the most faith long term. My advice to anyone is get on this forum and read about your model and get interested in doing mechanical work if you want to own a GM truck. And yes I said the same thing about my loose drivers seat the dealers had no fix for but the guys on this site have a fix that stopped it. Hope the G218 fixes ya up. My co worker has a 15 year old Tacoma and it just keeps going and going with no repairs just maintenance.

 

22R

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...