Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So for my first cold start it will start then die. I give it a little gas and start it while holding the gas down around 1500 rpm and it stays running. If I hold it for about a minute or two until the motor warms up I can let it go back down to idle and it’s fine after that. After the motor is warm I can turn it off and it starts back up fine. But when the motor gets cold again I have the same issue. Didn’t have any issues during the summer and fall but now that it’s getting cold this started. Any ideas???

Posted

a few things you can do.  clean your throttle body, and also clean your maf sensor.  Before doing so remove the positive terminal on your battery. Make sure that terminal is disconnected till after the work is done.  Sometimes just disconnecting the terminal for 15 minutes will resolve this cold start issue.

Posted

I agree with both of the previous replies. If those things do not solve the problem, then I would go over the basics. Look for vacuum leaks, check the spark plugs and air filter, run some injector cleaner, etc.

 

If you don't want to work on the vehicle and just want the symptoms to go away, you could install and inline block heater.

 

It would keep the engine warm as long as you plug it in every night. I have attached a link, but i did not verify its compatibility with your vehicle.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Zerostart-3200003-Radiator-Heater-Approved/dp/B0065V4MLG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=coolant%2Bheater&qid=1639512411&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyR0NXS0tCOFlKODdZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjcxNDI4MU9VOUgzUjdNUFVRNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzYxMTgwT0lEUTlERTJaQTZFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

Posted

I agree with Sharpz  & Tim but also check and clean the  IAC valve. if you have a scan tool that does data stream you should see the counts drop as it warms up and you should be able  hear the rpms come down as the counts drop

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I chased a similar problem in my 2000 Sierra 1500 a few years ago (idled rough...but got better as it warmed up) that turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. 

 Cheap easy fix. 

Posted
On 12/14/2021 at 11:25 PM, richard wysong said:

I agree with Sharpz  & Tim but also check and clean the  IAC valve. if you have a scan tool that does data stream you should see the counts drop as it warms up and you should be able  hear the rpms come down as the counts drop

Thanks a ton. The center piece of it was popped way out and it was pretty dirty. Cleaned it and was able to turn the center piece and it screwed back down and the problem went away. Probably needs to be replaced but it at least fixed the problem. 

  • Like 1
Posted

 I am not sure why the IAC valve would only act up when it was cold, but glad you're not having the issue anymore.

Posted

It seems like it was having the issue the whole time but it got worse when it was cold. It was 75 here the other day and it started without dying but the idle was a bit rough. I also noticed it would fluctuate and randomly go up to 800 rpm then back down to 300 rpm before leveling out around 600. It would do it sporadically as well. I’m just glad it works now   

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • People mislead themselves. Statistics are highly useful indicators.   Here's the tie-in to this thread. If an oil sample tests shows a wear indicator of 7 using cheaper ACDelco oil, and a wear indicator of 2 (lower = less wear) using a particular brand of Mobil oil, and wear has a linear relationship with engine lifespan, anyone could assume that Mobil is reducing wear by more than 50% (let's just say a 200% reduction for you red state people trying hard to do math) which leads to increasing engine life by 2x. Perhaps, in a vacuum, by itself, when dreamed by AI.   Yeah?! That's what the statistic is saying, isn't it?   No, it isn't. It didn't come out and say engine life is doubled. That's a very bad assumption, and a case of severe myopia by assuming something potentially untrue about the only data point in focus.   Average cost of a new car is 50k. You bet it is.   The median cost of a new car is more like 35k. Expensive cars are skewing the perception that "average" now means a $50k price of entry for a very average automobile. And that's not true. People who don't understand statistics twist the living heck out of them to mean all sorts of things they don't actually mean.   "Average" new car payment is $1000/month. Yep, it is. And in that number are all the $35k new car buyers who bring significant equity, and the $25k new car buyers who finance the car for a month just to get a rebate, and then pay it off. Know what isn't in that number? All the payments made by people who don't finance a car.   Picking one's own data point (don't have a car payment, never paid $50k for a new vehicle, my house cost $170k, I afforded a middle class lifestyle on $4.50/hr) is just a data point. Just like earning $25/hr in an area where the median home price is almost $1 Million is a data point. In fact, it's a lot of data points given that 80% of the US population lives in/around major cities. They're not idiots; the vast majority of them do it to make a living because that's where the big money is.   The highs have become higher, lows have become lower, and how your personal mileage varies is not truth for an entire country. At the same time you can't NOT acknowledge the data. While it doesn't paint YOUR personal picture, it certainly tints the reality that you also live in, as does your single data point.    
    • Glad you had success with it. I did as well, but about 5-6 months later it returned. Tried again, same result. This was after the dealer made several attempts and never even got it to slow down.
    • 3.15 Kroger’s in Montgomery Tx
    • I have a LTZ and it has the shifter in the console, which I like, but, every now and then, it will not stay in Reverse. I go through all the motions, hold the button in, push the shifter forward and watch the dash.  The big red R comes on and also the back up camera.  Then, it just pops out of Reverse with the shifter all the way forward.  So then the game begins.  Back and to Drive, Reverse.  This goes on 8 - 10 times. Very frustrating. Had it back to the dealer and they replaced some kind of computer, but it is now happing again. It is so bad, my wife will not drive the truck, she is afraid of being stuck somewhere.    Anyone else with this PIA problem? 
    • I see where you’re going and I can appreciate that. Statistics can be misleading because of the word average. They say statistics show the average cost of a new vehicle is about 50k. The average monthly payment is close to 1000 dollars a month. That’s statistics for you. I know very few people who pay that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...