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Don’t waste your time or money on a catch can. 
Just run an oil that’s recommended for this engine, change it when it gets to the add mark or oil life says to, and run an intake cleaner every 3rd oil change and you won’t have any problems. 
DI engines are known for 2 things, oil consumption and carbon build up on the back of the valves. I’ve owned several different DI engine powered vehicles and this has been common across all of them. I’ve tried catch cans and additives and the problems they created in the end weren’t worth any of the issues I was trying to eliminate. 

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  • 3 months later...
On 12/15/2021 at 9:39 AM, shakenfake said:

I disagree with the above statement. You drove we don't live in the 40s anymore 6k is nothing lol although I would go ahead and change the oil anyways since the OLM is pretty close to being to 0%

Unfortunately GM is gonna shaft you on this one if they already have a service bulletin out about it. You are certain that there are no leaks?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
7 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

How much is your engine burning/using between oil changes?

This oil change they estimated about quart and a half last oil change was 2. Im past the break in period this is the 4th oil change and been low each time ive had dealer service. I think its less this time because i haven't been towing as much between this oil change and last. Also each time ive taken it back to them for service before oil change due this time it was 1300 miles before so they can see and document it

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Change brands of oil.  Not all oil is the same although many think so.

 

https://www.lubesngreases.com/magazine/23_3/a-volatile-situation/

 

Quote

In the oil industry, volatility describes how readily a petroleum product vaporizes. For lubricants, this can have a powerful impact on engine operation and longevity, which is why volatility requirements are a key part of engine oil specifications.

 

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6 minutes ago, elcamino said:

Change brands of oil.  Not all oil is the same although many think so.

 

https://www.lubesngreases.com/magazine/23_3/a-volatile-situation/

 

 

I think some are better than others as well but im sure if i did that they would say not what gm recommends and void the warranty that why ive been taking it to them for service 

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27 minutes ago, Jasonb6711 said:

This oil change they estimated about quart and a half last oil change was 2. Im past the break in period this is the 4th oil change and been low each time ive had dealer service. I think its less this time because i haven't been towing as much between this oil change and last. Also each time ive taken it back to them for service before oil change due this time it was 1300 miles before so they can see and document it

So, you are changing roughly every 6000 miles? Are you going by the OLM? Maybe shorten the OCI to 5000 or less to see if that helps.

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Just now, JimCost2014 said:

So, you are changing roughly every 6000 miles? Are you going by the OLM? Maybe shorten the OCI to 5000 or less to see if that helps.

Less than 5000 except for the first change was right at 5 ill let them know its low again and they tell bring it in  and instead of topping off they'll just change it since it was close to millage

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1 minute ago, Jasonb6711 said:

Less than 5000 except for the first change was right at 5 ill let them know its low again and they tell bring it in  and instead of topping off they'll just change it since it was close to millage

Glass half full, you are still under warranty, and sounds like you have a good dealer. They may come back and say that it is acceptable consumption. Used car values are insane right now, so you may have options, but all brands have problems, and most have standards greater than GM for normal consumption between changes.

 

Good luck, keep us updated.

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7 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

Glass half full, you are still under warranty, and sounds like you have a good dealer. They may come back and say that it is acceptable consumption. Used car values are insane right now, so you may have options, but all brands have problems, and most have standards greater than GM for normal consumption between changes.

 

Good luck, keep us updated.

Ive been wondering if its a issue with other manufacturers my other truck didnt start burning oil unitl about 175k to 200k mark which is to be expected and is 18 years old. I dont know why they find it acceptable for us to spend 60k to 100k on a truck that burns oil im right back in same boat. The only engine that should consume oil and fuel is a 2 stroke.  Thanks for input ill keep posted

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6 hours ago, Jasonb6711 said:

I think some are better than others as well but im sure if i did that they would say not what gm recommends and void the warranty that why ive been taking it to them for service 

GM only recommends what makes them money.  They cannot dictate what brand of oil you use.  The FTC has stated that it’s illegal for an automobile dealer or OEM to refuse your warranty coverage because someone else performed routine maintenance or repairs on your vehicle. Any independent auto technician, a chain service repair business, or even yourself in your driveway are allowed to do routine maintenance or repairs on your vehicle.

 

Quote

Under WARRANTY PROVISIONS, Section 201, Paragraph C, Magnuson-Moss states:
No Warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer’s using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade, or corporate name; except that the prohibition of this subsection may be waived by the Commission if—
(1) the warrantor satisfies the Commission that the warranted product will function properly only if the article or service so identified is used in connection with the warranted product, and
(2) the Commission finds that such a waiver is in the public interest.

 

 

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3 hours ago, elcamino said:

GM only recommends what makes them money.  They cannot dictate what brand of oil you use.  The FTC has stated that it’s illegal for an automobile dealer or OEM to refuse your warranty coverage because someone else performed routine maintenance or repairs on your vehicle. Any independent auto technician, a chain service repair business, or even yourself in your driveway are allowed to do routine maintenance or repairs on your vehicle.

 

 

 

Ok good to know i may try a different oil gonna wait and see what they tell me after this test. Thank you for info

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12 hours ago, elcamino said:

Change brands of oil.  Not all oil is the same although many think so.

 

https://www.lubesngreases.com/magazine/23_3/a-volatile-situation/

 

 

 

JACKPOT!! What a great article @elcameno! Well done. From that post some notes I believe key

 

1.) Engine oil volatility ties strongly into drain intervals.

 

@Customboss is on this one like yellow on a banana all the time. Fuel dilution percent increases with time/miles and viscosity is influenced by operation conditions and tune conditions. 

 

2.) Passenger car motor oils face similar pushes for longer drain intervals and lower viscosity. In fact, the PCMO market has seen considerably lower viscosities than the heavy duty market, due primarily to stricter fuel economy and emissions requirements.

 

Point I make often. The Spec viscosity isn't about engineering considerations first but rather in addition to. Why the same motor is 'other' service gets a different spec. 

 

3.) In the Noack test, as in an engine, volatility is highly dependent on the rate at which the volatilized material is carried away by the flow of air through the space above the oil.

 

In a running motor this means the condition of the PCV system. Many PCV valves have been replaced by fixed orifices for this very reason. Problem is that often the 'one size fits all' of a orifice leads to poor CCV operation and causes more problems than it cures. 

 

4.) When base oils are distilled, viscosity grade stems from the boiling range of a given cut, explains Amy Claxton of My Energy Consulting & Training. Lighter viscosity oils have a lower boiling point. The volatility of the cut results from the amount of lighter material that will vaporize easily.

 

This does NOT mean a *w20 is more volatile than a *W30. It means a 0W30 is more volatile than a 10W30. This point of references is the first number in the SAE grade not the second. That number is controlled by the VI improvers molecular weight. 

 

5.) 4 centiStoke viscosity oil with a V.I. of 100 has volatility of 20 to 30 percent. Another 4 cSt oil with a V.I. of 120 would have about 13 to 16 percent volatility.

 

This VI number is NOT the number printed in the marketing information. That number is the 'fully formulated oil's in the bottle VI which is influenced by the VI package which includes both VI chemistries and Pour Point chemistries. In a UOA by fuel dilution and other things. Your only clue about the base oils Viscosity Index will be in knowing what base oil was used. That number climbs as the base oil Group Number increases.

 

Caution however is needed in the Group V class and ANYTHING not mineral oil or PAO is tossed into that group. In example; Alkylated Naphthalene is a Group V base oil whose VI is not very high even at higher viscosities. AN's and used allot and that trend will continue to increase. 

Alkylated Naphthalenes for High Temperature Applications - Issuu

 

AN's have some very useful traits but they are volatile. This should not stop you from using oils with them. You might find it hard to sources an oil without them. 

 

There are some properties of matter that are pretty interesting and useful to know. Such as the law of Partial Pressure. The final vapor pressure is the sum of the volume weighted partial pressures. Used to adjust Butane levels in gasoline for RVP requirements. 

 

Add a pound of 100 F water to a pound of 50 F water and you get two pounds of 75F water. The basis for you showers ability to adjust temperature finitely. 

 

Base oil volatility follows a law similar to partial pressure. Blenders have tables to draw on to balance all the physical properties of the finished blend before ever mixing a drop.  The NOACK number of finished oil is valuable information. Keep in mind that this number, like all others, changes with miles/time in the crankcase and why UOA's can be so useful. At least until you have a feel for your unit driven as you drive it using the lubricant of  your choice. 

 

:rant:

 

 

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