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Posted

My 2011 Silverado has 290.000 very easy miles, mostly highway, and after a period of inactivity it developed two symptoms. First I noted that it goes to neutral when stopping, this is random, not every time I stop and usually when coasting from constant speed, if I am not careful and accelerate, it bangs into gear, have to be gentle. The other thing ir a fluctuation of around 200 RPM at constant speed, for me it feels as the TC locking and unlocking.

 

The oil level is ok, the fluid ir ok. Changed a failing brake switch but no change.

 

Any comments will be of help, not a chance of the dealer solving this where I live.

  • Like 1
Posted

The up/down of the rpm like that would be the converter. If it's the original one with 290,000 miles, I'd say it's about cooked and same for the rest of the transmission.

 

I'd buy a new one with a new converter or get yours rebuilt with a new converter.

  • Like 1
Posted

My guess is that the transmission is on its way out.  I would start shopping about for one. You can get them on eBay and have it installed locally. Maybe not buy it yet, but if you have the best deal researched, then it will save time and money later.

Posted

have you scanned it for trans codes and data? you may want to do that before you fire the parts cannon. the code readers the parts stores use may not have the capability to do trans codes

Posted

Yeah, 290,000 miles... yeah I bet you need a tranny and converter, fixing it is a LOT less$$$ than a late model used vehicle or JEEZZZ a new one for $60.000... 12 years of payments....

Posted

the first symptom sounds like the free wheel part of the trans is getting stuck, if theres a trans shop near you take it there and have them scan it and do a tranny flush. it mite cost you a couple hundred but cheaper than a rebuild and they will know if its salvagable

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks for your answers,  already did a scan but with a very basic scanner, will look for a more capable scanner. I am no expert and have no experience with AT, but the continuos RPM fluctuations seems more as a electronic issue more than mechanic failure, or can it be that the computer activates the TQ lock, detects something wrong and disconnect and then starts cycling?

 

Sorry if this is a silly question, just want to try to understand more of this

 

 

Posted

290 K I understand it's time to replace it.

Posted

a good scanner will give you a better idea of whats going on but you may need a tech to interpret what you see in the data stream. the high mileage doesnt mean its junk 

Posted

if it is the converter locking and unlocking it may just be the control solenoid but the only way you will know is with a capable scan tool and road test. everything is electronic so without that info diagnosis is impossible

  • Like 1
Posted
22 hours ago, chiri said:

Thanks for your answers,  already did a scan but with a very basic scanner, will look for a more capable scanner. I am no expert and have no experience with AT, but the continuos RPM fluctuations seems more as a electronic issue more than mechanic failure, or can it be that the computer activates the TQ lock, detects something wrong and disconnect and then starts cycling?

 

Sorry if this is a silly question, just want to try to understand more of this

 

 

The first sign of trouble in these units is usually the plastic discs, the solenoids that need rebuilding which is part of the TECHM.  You can rebuild them on your kitchen table for about $110 plus fluids without taking out the transmission.

 

Sign up for AllDataDIY and run those symptoms through the troubleshooting guide.  Get a Tech-2 if you are going to keep this truck so you can work on it or at least diagnose it proper before letting someone work on it.

 

If you are apt to have it rebuilt now, head on over to Amarillo, Texas and let the folks at Precision Transmission overhaul it for you and put in a billet torque converter from Oklahoma.

 

https://www.youtube.com/c/PrecisionTransmission

Posted

thanks for your answers, will wait for the scan/road test and then decide which way to go.

 

Just in case, any recommendation as a source of remanufactured transmissions?

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