Inner brake pad wore considerably faster than out.

[richard wysong]

you hit it, the caliper bolts act as slides and if they can't move easily the pad with the piston will wear and not the other.  the rubbers should be available if they are in bad shape. what you got we call a pad slap and it's NOT a brake job. at the very least you grease the bolts. I sand blast any surface that can interfere with the caliper sliding freely, it's a lot quicker than the wiz wheel. stuck piston or bad hose would wear pads evenly if everything else is good. and the guy who never greases the pins is in for a surprise someday when he has to buy calipers cuz the pins are frozen

[richard wysong]

it's important that the  pads aren't getting jammed by rust buildup on the caliper bracket

 

 

[Brenden Burnham]

12 hours ago, richard wysong said:

you hit it, the caliper bolts act as slides and if they can't move easily the pad with the piston will wear and not the other.  the rubbers should be available if they are in bad shape. what you got we call a pad slap and it's NOT a brake job. at the very least you grease the bolts. I sand blast any surface that can interfere with the caliper sliding freely, it's a lot quicker than the wiz wheel. stuck piston or bad hose would wear pads evenly if everything else is good. and the guy who never greases the pins is in for a surprise someday when he has to buy calipers cuz the pins are frozen

Yes and thanks for helping out here.  Next time I do my brakes I will upgrade the entire system, calipers and all.  You made some very good points here.  See so many even yt videos of them NOT even cleaning off the brackets where the hardware goes.  They just simply "SLAP" some new pads on and call it good.  I always like to clean off the brackets with a wire brush any spots that need it and put new hardware on so the pads can slide freely and also grease those spots along with the caliper bolts.  Thanks Richard for your awesome insight once again.

[Brenden Burnham]

10 hours ago, richard wysong said:

it's important that the  pads aren't getting jammed by rust buildup on the caliper bracket

 

 

Yes another great point here.  

[Brenden Burnham]

10 hours ago, richard wysong said:

it's important that the  pads aren't getting jammed by rust buildup on the caliper bracket

 

 

Would like to get your input on the following.  I have seen different ways of when compressing the caliper piston.  I have seen the way of just opening the brake fluid reservoir to relieve the pressure and also just opening the bleeder a little to let a little out when compressing.  What is your prefered way?

[bubbanbrenda]

On 2/9/2022 at 10:43 AM, Brenden Burnham said:

I was actually just looking at the calipers and the guide pins but neither come with the rubber boots.  Where did you end up getting the rubber boots?  If need I want to replace all.  Or are you talking about the rubber brake lines?

The rubber brake lines or hoses

[dna9656]

On 2/9/2022 at 7:38 AM, bubbanbrenda said:

My ‘08 was eating inner pads even after replacing the calipers, I ended up replacing the rubber hoses between the frame and calipers, so far so good.

You may still have a stuck slide pin or cocked piston in the caliper, the bracket could be bent, I don't know if that is a possibility or not but there it is.  You should replace the axle set (of pads) when any pad or pair don't perform as designed. I don't understand how a rubber hose caused one pad to wear faster than the other... So far as greasing your brake parts; using the correct grease is as important as greasing the parts at all. So long as the brake engineers call for lube on the slides and the pads where they touch the caliper I'll be greasing them. Even drum brakes get lube where the shoe contacts the pads on the backing plate and the self adjuster should be lightly lubes with the right stuff along with the spring anchor points. If you drive in conditions are extreme (dusty, dirty, or muddy, extremely hot/cold for example) you should shorten your preventive maintenance schedule as prescribed in most manuals and warranty schedules. The military shortens some intervals in the arctic and deserts.

[Brenden Burnham]

18 minutes ago, dna9656 said:

I don't understand how a rubber hose caused one pad to wear faster than the other

My only thought would be that it was clogged and changing it out obviously fixed the flow.  Other than that yeah who knows?  All very good points.  I checked that the new pads were centered in the bracket and looked straight.  I would think if it was a crooked/bent bracket that it would do the same funky wear on both?  or perhaps the thought is the one side is bent causing the inner pad to remain stuck due to being too tight?  I did check the caliper pistons and they did look straight.

 

Is there a way to even test for a bad Caliper?  That would be ideal instead of wondering if that is the issue and just wasting $$ on a new one when that wasn't the issue after all.

Edited February 10, 2022 by Brenden Burnham

[richard wysong]

the way to compress the piston is to clamp off the brake hose, open the bleeder (might as well remove it and never seize it while you're there)then using the tool or a large C-clamp with an old pad compress the piston. the reason being that the caliper is the lowest part of the system and any debris will collect there and if you push the crap back thru the abs control it can clog the tiny passages in it and ruin your day. if the piston compresses smoothly and the rubbers look good puck not damaged and the pins are free you have a good caliper. oh and no leaks, lol

[shakenfake]

You don't need to open the bleeder to compress it back but yes never seize on it while you have a chance lol

[Brenden Burnham]

37 minutes ago, shakenfake said:

You don't need to open the bleeder to compress it back but yes never seize on it while you have a chance lol

I was always led to believe that by not allowing pressure out when compressing the caliper you have a chance of damaging the caliper due to such.  In fact I am pretty sure I destroyed one by doing exactly that on a Dodge Ram compressing the caliper not relieving pressure.  I had to change those newly changed pads within two months as the caliper had seized up.  I am not 100% certain that is what caused it but have always played it safe since then.  This last time I just popped the reservoir cap allowing that pressure out.  Typically I slightly open the bleeder nipple while compressing.

[shakenfake]

Hmm you may be right, I just know that's what I have done. 

[Brenden Burnham]

18 hours ago, richard wysong said:

caliper is the lowest part of the system

That is a great point did not think of that.  I will be buying a complete brake kit in near future and will be doing a complete brake fluid flush.  Still deciding on what one but due to complete kit, reviews and price will most likely be the Power Stop as it comes with Calipers, rotors and pads.

Edited February 11, 2022 by Brenden Burnham

[dna9656]

On 2/10/2022 at 7:06 PM, richard wysong said:

the way to compress the piston is to clamp off the brake hose, open the bleeder (might as well remove it and never seize it while you're there)then using the tool or a large C-clamp with an old pad compress the piston. the reason being that the caliper is the lowest part of the system and any debris will collect there and if you push the crap back thru the abs control it can clog the tiny passages in it and ruin your day. if the piston compresses smoothly and the rubbers look good puck not damaged and the pins are free you have a good caliper. oh and no leaks, lol

I got no stinkin' trash in my brake lines! Like EVERY BODY ELSE I bleed my brake system every 2 years....Yeah right.

How is the rubber brake line pinched off without damage? What about a in line valve in the hard brake line to stop back flow? Such a line would have to be safetied (wire) open of course. It would prolly be illegal in a commercial vehicle....

[Brenden Burnham]

20 minutes ago, dna9656 said:

What about a in line valve in the hard brake line to stop back flow?

Funny thing I was actually thinking about this over the weekend. That it would make for so much easier brake jobs if there was a  valve even if in the very end of the rubber hose that connects to the caliper.  This way no needing of pinching anything and would make changing the brakes so much easier.  Just close valve, disconnect hose and compress piston.