Jump to content

Recovery hook driver side

steelerdude1
 Share

Recommended Posts

steelerdude1 Enthusiast

steelerdude1

Posted
Posted

I got a set of red recovery hooks for my 2022 crew cab and I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get the long bolt out of the drivers side. There is a plastic shroud in the way.  I removed any bolts for the Schroeder and even took a pry bar to it, it won’t budge. 
 

any suggestions?D50BAA45-4CB8-449A-B254-021BAA265DFE.thumb.jpeg.6e6c477367907e933a41b6f11b07a47d.jpegD50BAA45-4CB8-449A-B254-021BAA265DFE.thumb.jpeg.6e6c477367907e933a41b6f11b07a47d.jpeg

4DCA9AA8-7758-4718-A919-C97DCB2EF8F7.jpeg

Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, steelerdude1 said:

Giving up for today, may just put the other black one back on and be done with it. BD20ABAD-DA38-4124-BC76-22DB2B7C939C.thumb.jpeg.c4f959393db4998d7bda1d5e63535d43.jpeg

It never fails when installing something its always the last install that there are problems but if it were me, I would take a Dremel and grind that plastic piece off enough to drop the bolt as long it's a lip and not a solid piece stopping the bolt.

Edited by Silverado4x4
steelerdude1 Enthusiast

steelerdude1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, Silverado4x4 said:

It never fails when installing something its always the last install that there are problems but if it were me, I would take a Dremel and grind that plastic piece off enough to drop the bolt. 


thanks for replying , 

 

I tried to get a Dremel  in there, there but there is not enough room. Not sure if I can buy a long extension though. 

gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted

How about a sawzall and put the new bolt in from the other direction?

 

 

Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted (edited)

Both of mine came out easy peasy and I dont recall having any plastic covering anything.  30 seconds with the bumper off if I remember correctly, so I'm not sure what's going on. Is yours a diesel?  Mine is a 5.3 so it might not have had that component to begin with on the front end if that's the case.

Edited by Gangly
steelerdude1 Enthusiast

steelerdude1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Gangly said:

Both of mine came out easy peasy and I dont recall having any plastic covering anything.  30 seconds with the bumper off if I remember correctly, so I'm not sure what's going on. Is yours a diesel?  Mine is a 5.3 so it might not have had that component to begin with on the front end if that's the case.

I have the 2.7 turbo

steelerdude1 Enthusiast

steelerdude1

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, gemarsh said:

How about a sawzall and put the new bolt in from the other direction?

 

 

I tried  that is too. Bolt just wanted to spin. Was afraid  to grab it with vice grips in case it didn’t cut through and not being able to use the bolt if it didn’t work 
 

I’m going to try one of the reciprocating  dremels and a bolt cutter in the morning. 

Edited by steelerdude1
latreille89 Enthusiast

latreille89

Posted
Posted

You need to cut it out. No other way around it. Put a new bolt in after. This goes for the 2.7 and 3.0

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, steelerdude1 said:

I tried  that is too. Bolt just wanted to spin. Was afraid  to grab it with vice grips in case it didn’t cut through and not being able to use the bolt if it didn’t work 
 

I’m going to try one of the reciprocating  dremels and a bolt cutter in the morning. 

Maybe a box end wrench?

Maybe a socket on a breaker bar?

Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted (edited)

Put the black ones on then get small paint brush red enamel paint and paint the ones you have, people put the red ones on just for show anyway and never use them, no one will know there painted. I have used mine {black) a few times and still look new I bet the red ones would look like crap if used.

Edited by Silverado4x4
steelerdude1 Enthusiast

steelerdude1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I tried cutting the bolt with bolt cutters (not enough room) a long Sawzall metal cutting blade (put thread locker on, let it set up and held the nut with a wrench). That didn’t work, tried a Dremel oscillating tool with a metal blade still no luck. 
 

Between those 065C4296-B038-43E9-9CE6-5BF2754311FA.thumb.jpeg.e44616dada8520e0df71231379a5aed0.jpeg8AB99640-83D7-432D-B9DA-376E429619B7.thumb.jpeg.99d121920ca6a8652b3b7cab23ad6cc9.jpeg2 tools, I was able to get to the plastic shroud corner cut off and finally got the bolt out. It was very tight, and I am just wondering where they get their engineers, LOL

They are finally both on now!
 

Had I known this, I probably would not have bought them. 

tomthetrex Enthusiast

tomthetrex

Posted
Posted

You have to pull the intercooler to get to the bolts. Its a pain in the ass. I had the same experience when switching out my bumper for an aftermarket bumper. The first part of the instructions was to remove the tow hooks. That should have been the last part hahaha. Took forever.....

Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted
On 2/27/2022 at 12:38 AM, steelerdude1 said:

I have the 2.7 turbo

Gotcha, that explains it.

DemonWorks Enthusiast

DemonWorks

Posted
Posted

I cut mine with a sawzall. I was worried about it at first but I slid the bolt back far enough to cut the head off then slid right out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 1 Anonymous, 459 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...