Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This is a tune I made for someone last year. Use the compare feature to see some of the transmission related changes. Your truck has different size tires on it than this I believe so do not do anything with the shift schedule stuff or speed related items because they will always be different.

 

The main stuff is the Shift pressure, shift timing, torque converter and torque mngt.

 

I have minor changes in the shift pressure and changes in the adaptive settings. My shift timing setup is different than yours. I also turn off the torque converter for gears 1-4 and only use lock up in 5th/6th gears. As well as turning off the TCC slip for converter life. The apply/release section, only use the "NORMAL" section, that will turn off the TC in gears 1-4 and raise the MPH settings for lockup in 5th and 6th. In the TM tab I would put the shift torque factor back to stock or put it at like .9500, you really don't need to adjust that table by half like that.

 

This is my opinion here but the commanded AFR under WOT is kinda lean if you are running 87 octane. I'd keep that around 12.4-12.5 instead of 12.8. If running 91+ octane it's probably alright.

 

I run leaner if I have higher ethanol content in the fuel but I have my tables setup to use the sensor that way. Also your timing tables are higher than stock which can be okay but I don't know how it's performing. It may be too much timing for 87 octane, on my truck I'm only around 20 degrees but move towards 25-27 with E60 fuel. Also your tuner didn't give you enough wiggle room between the high and low octane table. It's only giving you 1-2 degree difference, the low octane table should be atleast 5-6 degrees less. I'd just highlight the whole low octane table and remove another 4 degrees from it.

 

You will have to reset the transmission adapts after flashing those changes and before starting the truck again. Just a simple step.

 

 

 

 

 

2015 Silverado. test.hpt

Posted
3 hours ago, 2015 High Miler said:

small update.  New trans is doing well.  I did get an updated tune to reflect the new components and its still working well.  The temps are where I would expect with the cooler and the bypass.  Highest I've seen is 140 in heavy city traffic.  

 

I do need to get a better tune though, both engine and trans.  I have HP Tuners but I'm not very good at it yet.  

 

If anyone is in the DFW area that has some experience, Id be happy to meet up and get a look at my tune.  

what updates did you install physically into the rebuild?

Posted
5 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

This is a tune I made for someone last year. Use the compare feature to see some of the transmission related changes. Your truck has different size tires on it than this I believe so do not do anything with the shift schedule stuff or speed related items because they will always be different.

 

The main stuff is the Shift pressure, shift timing, torque converter and torque mngt.

 

I have minor changes in the shift pressure and changes in the adaptive settings. My shift timing setup is different than yours. I also turn off the torque converter for gears 1-4 and only use lock up in 5th/6th gears. As well as turning off the TCC slip for converter life. The apply/release section, only use the "NORMAL" section, that will turn off the TC in gears 1-4 and raise the MPH settings for lockup in 5th and 6th. In the TM tab I would put the shift torque factor back to stock or put it at like .9500, you really don't need to adjust that table by half like that.

 

 

 

did you install a larger regulator in the pump before increasing the line pressures or max peak pressures first?

Posted

I don't touch the max pressure settings. I only increased the 1-2 and 2-3 shift upshift pressures slightly.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, pokismoki said:

what updates did you install physically into the rebuild?

This is posted earlier in the thread:
 

Builder said it’s built to handle 700 HP.  More if it had a hardened input shaft.  

DCE70F46-4978-4CAA-B637-E532B965EBA3.jpeg

Edited by 2015 High Miler
  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, CamGTP said:

This is a tune I made for someone last year. Use the compare feature to see some of the transmission related changes. Your truck has different size tires on it than this I believe so do not do anything with the shift schedule stuff or speed related items because they will always be different.

 

The main stuff is the Shift pressure, shift timing, torque converter and torque mngt.

 

I have minor changes in the shift pressure and changes in the adaptive settings. My shift timing setup is different than yours. I also turn off the torque converter for gears 1-4 and only use lock up in 5th/6th gears. As well as turning off the TCC slip for converter life. The apply/release section, only use the "NORMAL" section, that will turn off the TC in gears 1-4 and raise the MPH settings for lockup in 5th and 6th. In the TM tab I would put the shift torque factor back to stock or put it at like .9500, you really don't need to adjust that table by half like that.

 

This is my opinion here but the commanded AFR under WOT is kinda lean if you are running 87 octane. I'd keep that around 12.4-12.5 instead of 12.8. If running 91+ octane it's probably alright.

 

I run leaner if I have higher ethanol content in the fuel but I have my tables setup to use the sensor that way. Also your timing tables are higher than stock which can be okay but I don't know how it's performing. It may be too much timing for 87 octane, on my truck I'm only around 20 degrees but move towards 25-27 with E60 fuel. Also your tuner didn't give you enough wiggle room between the high and low octane table. It's only giving you 1-2 degree difference, the low octane table should be atleast 5-6 degrees less. I'd just highlight the whole low octane table and remove another 4 degrees from it.

 

You will have to reset the transmission adapts after flashing those changes and before starting the truck again. Just a simple step.

 

 

 

 

 

2015 Silverado. test.hpt 2.4 MB · 3 downloads

Cam, thanks for this info but TBH, I have not become very proficient yet with HPT and looking at these tunes.  I've had some trouble getting my compare files to open.  Most likely user error.  Ill try again with this one.  

 

I def would like to be able to switch fuels.  I could at one point but now its really down on power with 87 and with 91/93 its about where it used to be with 87.  I drive a lot of highway miles back and forth to work and with fuel prices where  they are, being able to run 87 for the long hauls would be great.  With that, I am willing to run it on 91 if it makes the type of power that I think it should. it just feels really weak off the line and at one point when first tuned, it would really get it off the line.  I recently pulled a two wheel trailer to DFW and back and it was horrible on power and mileage and was always in 5th gear it seems.  That was with an empty load.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • When I bought my 14 GMC I turned it off with an handheld programmer. With my 16 Odyssey I left it on solely because I didn’t have much money in the vehicle. There’s a device to turn it off that’s a little more involved. The GMC at 72 MPH the deactivation was on very little the deference was 1/2 mile per gallon. The Odyssey is on over half the time at 72 mph. 
    • Anyone ever thought about switching the interior door panels from the base model to the Denali style? I’ve seen that you basically have to cut, sand, mold, paint, the window switches together to get the look right. Is that the main reason people don’t bother doing the swap? Seems like the only method that is easy I guess, without having to mess around with wiring and stuff.
    • Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...