Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I ended up going with the Borla touring and am totally happy with it. It is quiet in the cab and no drone but opens up nicely when given some throttle. It has a nice deep growl to it without being over whelming in a daily. I also went with the one that came with the quad tips and it looks awesome. Thanks everyone for the input.

Posted
On 8/26/2022 at 2:24 PM, BamX31 said:

I ended up going with the Borla touring and am totally happy with it. It is quiet in the cab and no drone but opens up nicely when given some throttle. It has a nice deep growl to it without being over whelming in a daily. I also went with the one that came with the quad tips and it looks awesome. Thanks everyone for the input.

no drone at all?  i thought the GM dealership version was the only one that didnt drone?

i have a 2020 6.2 and i want the touring too but not for 2K from the dealer

Posted

I have the Borla S-type and there is no drone in it. Since it is supposed to be louder than the touring, I wouldnt think it would drone either. I will say though, I wished it was a bit louder lol.

Posted
On 8/29/2022 at 6:00 PM, Byrds8 said:

I have the Borla S-type and there is no drone in it.

 

Agree.  I have the S-Type as well and it has no drone.  Only issue I have is I keep getting rattles.  Always seems like it's the last clamps coming loose closest to the exhaust exit.  Anyone else find this?  Any suggestions beyond getting it welded?  I don't hear it on the road, generally when going slow up a grade or pulling through a drive-through.

 

Posted
44 minutes ago, J2Jones said:

 

Agree.  I have the S-Type as well and it has no drone.  Only issue I have is I keep getting rattles.  Always seems like it's the last clamps coming loose closest to the exhaust exit.  Anyone else find this?  Any suggestions beyond getting it welded?  I don't hear it on the road, generally when going slow up a grade or pulling through a drive-through.

 

Mine doesnt do so, so not sure what would be causing it. Granted after a couple of heat cycles, I went under and made sure everything was tight. The only issue I have with mine is that they didnt cut the old exhaust enough for the end of the tails to be even with the bumper. They still out a few inches.

Posted
23 hours ago, Byrds8 said:

Mine doesnt do so, so not sure what would be causing it. Granted after a couple of heat cycles, I went under and made sure everything was tight.

 

Thanks for the reply.  I've tightened everything a few times now.  Solves it for a while but tends to come back.  Maybe will try new/different clamps.  Love the exhaust as a whole, just kind of embarrassed by the rattles.

Posted
On 9/1/2022 at 11:12 AM, J2Jones said:

 

Thanks for the reply.  I've tightened everything a few times now.  Solves it for a while but tends to come back.  Maybe will try new/different clamps.  Love the exhaust as a whole, just kind of embarrassed by the rattles.

I feel you. I would be too. Cant stand it to make noises that "shouldnt" be there lol. The plastic trim around my door rattles ever so slightly...drives me nuts.

Posted (edited)

I just did a 1800 mile trip from Minnesota to Wyoming towing my 25' 6000 lb travel trailer with my 6.2 High Country with the Borla Touring setup.

Under a heavy load, like a 5%-6% grade, it's loud until it downshifts and puts the rpms at or over 2000 rpm then it quiets down because it has less a load on it.

10.3 avg. mpg for the whole trip. High as 12 one tank(no wind) and low as 8 in the wind.

One thing for sure the 6.2 has more than enough ass towing.

 

Edited by dieselfan1
  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/28/2022 at 10:15 AM, Handysix1 said:

no drone at all?  i thought the GM dealership version was the only one that didnt drone?

i have a 2020 6.2 and i want the touring too but not for 2K from the dealer

The Touring has no drone at all. It is perfect for me since I didn't want real loud just an aggressive sound. When towing a 5000 lb load it does get a little loud going up grades. The only reason I stayed away from the S-type was there is no difference between the sound  between it and the Atak on a ZL1. It was way to loud for a daily. It literally wakes up the neighbors when he starts it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Update for anyone following:    Installed everything as shown in diagram. Opted for 8 AWG from Battery Positive to a 50A resettable inline breaker. 8 AWG is tied into to 2x 12 AWG wires feeding a 6 way fuse bus in parallel (manufacturer’s design of what I purchased).    4 of the 6 fuses available for circuits are tied to terminal 30 of each relay. I tied a jumper from one of my spare circuits off the bus to terminal 86 of each relay. The trigger, terminal 85, was pulled from my interior by way of T-Taps from the X61A-X5 pins 10, 11, 17 and 23. This was the hardest part of the job. Even with the X61A unbolted and the X5 removed - there was VERY little wiggle room.  I added back up lights that I want to come on with my cargo lamp - but when I would check continuity between S48A-X1 pin 18 to its respective landing point on the X61A-X5 it triggers the factory relay… Instead I opted for a add-a-fuse on the passenger interior fuse panel (fuse location 10 - cargo lamp) and ran it through the boot on the driver side to my load. Did this to avoid introducing any electrical gremlins.   Note: Please check for continuity between the S48A-X1 and the X61A-X5. In my case wire colours were not the same as other’s who have posted. To do a continuity check you need a Multimeter. Completely disassemble the S48A-X1 and remove the brown face plate off the X61A-X5 by way of a flat head screwdriver - this was the only way I could get any results.   The outputs, terminal 87 of the relays, were fed into a junction box and landed at Individual studs and were labelled Aux 1-4.    At this point, all you need to do is run wire to your loads and bring them to ground. I created a negative bus in the engine bay, all my negatives land here.    For anyone having issues with all of your new aux switch lights coming on with the press of one - I noticed this only to be an issue when the battery wasn’t hooked up to my relays? No idea why, but it was quickly corrected by having my system buttoned up and functional.     
    • Well I ordered the Autel ts508, and it won't work on my truck I tried all the 2023 and everything it just says vehicle not supported lol   I'm able to send this unit back, so I'm going to do that, then I'll just stop into a some tire shops and if none of them are able to do it, I guess ill have to spend a bunch of money to get a good scanner..... Thanks GM lol
    • Don't need the air tube but that's how everyone sells them. Most places won't remove that one piece and sell it alone. No money to be made. Hoping someone swapped theirs out for a CAI and no longer wants it. Not asking anyone to give it away. Offering to buy it but I don't need the tube. It's held on by a hex head screw and nut. Been all over eBay. 
    • Wait, you guys are changing your oil???
    • If you need that mount looking piece.  You need the air tube.       Cheapest one I see on eBay - 2007-2014 GM Silverado 1500 Air Cleaner Outlet Duct Assembly 5.3L OEM 15901934 | eBay     Same price but free shipping - 2009-2014 CADILLAC ESCALADE 6.2L AIR CLEANER OUTLET DUCT ASSEMBLY 15901934 OEM | eBay
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...