Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok, so problem #1.  Randomly I go to crank the truck and there isn't enough juice in the battery to crank.  The odd part is It can happen 2-3 times in a day or none in a week.  And it can happen after 3 minutes of being turned off!  I don't know of a parasite drain that can drain it that fast.  A simple jump or battery charge and it will crank right up.

 

#2 periodically I'll go to unlock using my key fob and it will instantly lock it again, as soon as I unlock, over and over and over. Occasionally it relocks while I'm driving as well... this problem is also periodic.  
 

#3. battery source has tested battery and alternator 3 times and reports them both fine.

 

#4. upon inspection of battery there seems to be a small spill of an oily liquid on it, no clue where it came from but only maybe a teaspoon worth

 

#5 inside the distribution box on top of the battery, one of the small squares of plastic on the corner closest to driver (no terminals here) appears to have been melted... or more so dissolved by this liquid which isn't appearing anywhere else inside distribution box.

 

6. lifting distribution box up reveals scarring and melting / disintegration of bottom of distribution box by this liquid.

 

7. battery source insists that it can not possibly be battery acid, as the acid can't come out of top of battery.

 

any ideas here? I just want it to stop killing battery and leaving me stranded 

455FCCAE-B5A4-40BF-A1CC-B736B295B11B.jpeg

7F2EFB50-4965-4A56-A85E-576F131E8FD9.jpeg

E8F7EA91-1011-489F-932C-848A9B976B55.jpeg

Posted
15 hours ago, 64BAwagon said:

My moneys on a bad battery. 

That's what I keep saying and thinking. But I bought it at battery source, and I have returned there 4  times now. And every times they Tell me that the battery and alternator test good.  That's where I got them to take the cover off where I noticed the melted still gewey pieces of plastic that you see in the pics.  I had noticed a small amount of liquid on top of battery, and whatever the liquid is seems to be disintegrating the distributor box.  The employees insist that it can't be battery acid and that battery acid can only come out the battery's side overflow ports and not out of the top.  But I can find absolutely no ideas regarding why the battery has this liquid on it or how it got there.  
 

the glob of black left on the sticker of the battery was eating away at the sticker, however there really wasn't any battery damage.  Whatever it is ate thru the distributor cap but not the battery

Posted

My moneys on bad grounds or battery cables. 

Posted

You might want to have the battery tested by another place thats a little more objective. Alternator is easy, if the truck shows anything over 13volts while running the alternator is good. 

Make sure they "load test" the battery, not just throw a meter on it. 

Posted

I’ve had a bad battery start my truck and still be bad. To the point of effecting my transmission. It would be in tow-haul mode and not shift out. It was to the point I was checking out rebuilding prices. One day it wouldn’t start. Put a battery in all better. That was on my 02 avalanche. 

Posted
On 11/5/2022 at 5:56 PM, Nick W said:

Ok, so problem #1.  Randomly I go to crank the truck and there isn't enough juice in the battery to crank.  The odd part is It can happen 2-3 times in a day or none in a week.  And it can happen after 3 minutes of being turned off!  I don't know of a parasite drain that can drain it that fast.  A simple jump or battery charge and it will crank right up.

 

#2 periodically I'll go to unlock using my key fob and it will instantly lock it again, as soon as I unlock, over and over and over. Occasionally it relocks while I'm driving as well... this problem is also periodic.  
 

#3. battery source has tested battery and alternator 3 times and reports them both fine.

 

#4. upon inspection of battery there seems to be a small spill of an oily liquid on it, no clue where it came from but only maybe a teaspoon worth

 

#5 inside the distribution box on top of the battery, one of the small squares of plastic on the corner closest to driver (no terminals here) appears to have been melted... or more so dissolved by this liquid which isn't appearing anywhere else inside distribution box.

 

6. lifting distribution box up reveals scarring and melting / disintegration of bottom of distribution box by this liquid.

 

7. battery source insists that it can not possibly be battery acid, as the acid can't come out of top of battery.

 

any ideas here? I just want it to stop killing battery and leaving me stranded 

455FCCAE-B5A4-40BF-A1CC-B736B295B11B.jpeg

7F2EFB50-4965-4A56-A85E-576F131E8FD9.jpeg

E8F7EA91-1011-489F-932C-848A9B976B55.jpeg

 

This is certainly not what we like to hear, Nick W.  Please know, customer satisfaction is extremely important to us. Our team would be more than happy to take a closer look into the concerns with your 2018 Silverado 1500. To do so, please send an email to [email protected] with ATTN: Nick W/GM Trucks in the subject line.

Please include your contact information, VIN, a brief description of your concern, and the name of your preferred dealership. We look forward to hearing from you. To learn more about GM’s privacy policy, please visit https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.html.
 
Privacy Statement | General Motors
Your privacy is important to General Motors. This Privacy Statement addresses the personal information GM collects and how GM handles that personal information.
www.gm.com
 

  • Haha 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I took it to the dealership today for the diagnostic apt You guys made for me. They said that if I leave the truck with them today then they will hopefully be able to do the diagnostic next week, but it may be the week after that. Once that's done then they can determine how much longer they will need the vehicle. Unfortunately I don't have another vehicle, I can't just leave my truck here that long. I asked her if it was possible for me to drive it for this upcoming week and drop it off when they were actually able to look at it. She said no, that it has to be on the lot ready when they are ready. So I'm back in the same boat I was earlier, except now wasted a week. And when I had to jump it off yesterday it did something to my dashboard, now those lights don't work at all either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...