Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, newdude said:

 

 

It got cold as you said it got cold outside.  The common symptom in that bulletin is at, around 32F and below.  

 

They don't add any additives unless they pitch you one like BG.  GM uses 5w30 from the factory.  Use 5w30.  The 5.3 and 6.2 use 0w20 and the pump still makes the noise, as do the Camaros/Corvettes that use 0w40.  


Nothing happens long term.  The only oil pumps I've seen replaced on Gen 5 V8s are for the variable control solenoid failing.  

That temperature part of the bulletin is the only part that doesn't make since to me. It hardly gets in to the 40's here much less below freezing. Mine has been making that noise all summer which is 80's and 90's.

Posted
47 minutes ago, Pryme said:

That’s a bummer. I wonder what symptoms to look for if that fails?

 

thanks

 

Check engine light with a P06DD code is the most common.  

 

4 minutes ago, Flatus said:

That temperature part of the bulletin is the only part that doesn't make since to me. It hardly gets in to the 40's here much less below freezing. Mine has been making that noise all summer which is 80's and 90's.

 

 

Sitting for long times as well per the bulletin.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
36 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

Check engine light with a P06DD code is the most common.  

 

 

 

Sitting for long times as well per the bulletin.


will it not show a drop or rise in oil pressure? If the solenoid fails would it either fail open or closed?

 

my scan gauge 3 pulls the exact to the second oil pressure from the obd2 port so I can monitor the exact oil pressure. 

Posted
8 minutes ago, Pryme said:


will it not show a drop or rise in oil pressure? If the solenoid fails would it either fail open or closed?

 

my scan gauge 3 pulls the exact to the second oil pressure from the obd2 port so I can monitor the exact oil pressure. 

 

 

It will spike to high pressure on the gauge in the dash.  If you watch the oil pressure driving on these gen 5 engines, around 3500rpm the oil pressure spikes from say 40-50psi to about 70psi.  That's the second stage kicking in. 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
5 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

 

It will spike to high pressure on the gauge in the dash.  If you watch the oil pressure driving on these gen 5 engines, around 3500rpm the oil pressure spikes from say 40-50psi to about 70psi.  That's the second stage kicking in. 

 

I do notice that on the scan gauge just as you stated. It will go to like 70 and drop back down depending on your speed/acceleration. 
 

so basically if the solenoid fails it will either fail open or closed. So you wouldn’t see that fluctuating I’m guessing. 

Posted

So today I made a quick video so anyone who’s interested to see how the oil pressure changes. These changes are not reflected on the trucks actual gauge. 
 

so this is just a casual cruise up to freeway speed(about 65) unloaded. I did blimp the throttle getting it to 2,500 rpm a couple times but the pressure changes randomly not based on those downshifts. 
 

as you can see it actually changes from like 48-50 cursing to 67-70 and back down. 
 

now I haven’t done this with really warm oil as you can see the coolant is up to temp but not the oil or transmission. 
 

Scan gauge 3 in 6.6 gas
https://youtu.be/37WhuCpvfc4

Posted
5 hours ago, Flatus said:

That temperature part of the bulletin is the only part that doesn't make since to me. It hardly gets in to the 40's here much less below freezing. Mine has been making that noise all summer which is 80's and 90's.

Confuses me too because after me being at work 10 hours and leaving when it 80 plus degrees out mine still makes that noise.  So temp. doesn't matter with mine at all and apparently with yours either.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Had my truck do this once at 7000 mi. Woke up one morning went out there with a coffee at 7am, probably 20F. Started it and heard that racket. At first thought it sounded like ice cracking. Never heard it since.

Posted

I’ve heard that rasp sound when starting but only when I open door are reach in and turn the key. Yeah, my truck has one of those old fashioned key thingys. My daily driver is a push start and it’s kind of annoying you have to touch the brakes to push start. Not sure if these trucks are that way but makes it a pain to reach in and fire it up. I have to use my hand to push the brake pedal and push start.  

Posted (edited)
On 12/26/2022 at 11:16 PM, Pryme said:

I’ve heard that rasp sound when starting but only when I open door are reach in and turn the key. Yeah, my truck has one of those old fashioned key thingys. My daily driver is a push start and it’s kind of annoying you have to touch the brakes to push start. Not sure if these trucks are that way but makes it a pain to reach in and fire it up. I have to use my hand to push the brake pedal and push start.  

My custom model uses the old key thingy too and I love it because of that....lol.......but from what I've read on this thread a different oil filter won't fix that noise.  At first I was thinking the drain back valve is junk on the AC Delco filters, but that can't be the case because my truck obviously had that filter when new and was replaced with the exact same filter.  So that leaves the oil......I'm still scratching my head as to what happened during a simple oil change that made my truck start making the rasp noise during startup, that it didn't make at all until an oil change.  I don't know.  I'm thinking GM put in some kind of moly or perhaps a thicker oil during break in.  I don't know.  I'm at 5200 miles now.  Still far away from needing an oil change but I might try a different oil this time to see if it eliminates the rasp.  I know GM says no additives in the oil.  But I'm tempted to throw a pint of moly in it just to see what happens.  It's not going to hurt anything, but I really want that noise to go away and sound normal like it did before my first oil change.

Edited by Jettech1
Posted
9 hours ago, Jettech1 said:

My custom model uses the old key thingy too and I love it because of that....lol.......but from what I've read on this thread a different oil filter won't fix that noise.  At first I was thinking the drain back valve is junk on the AC Delco filters, but that can't be the case because my truck obviously had that filter when new and was replaced with the exact same filter.  So that leaves the oil......I'm still scratching my head as to what happened during a simple oil change that made my truck start making the rasp noise during startup, that it didn't make at all until an oil change.  I don't know.  I'm thinking GM put in some kind of moly or perhaps a thicker oil during break in.  I don't know.  I'm at 5200 miles now.  Still far away from needing an oil change but I might try a different oil this time to see if it eliminates the rasp.  I know GM says no additives in the oil.  But I'm tempted to throw a pint of moly in it just to see what happens.  It's not going to hurt anything, but I really want that noise to go away and sound normal like it did before my first oil change.

I’m more annoyed with the loud priming fuel pump when you open any door. Even multiple times if you open a couple doors. 
I wonder if it “unprimes” if you just open the door to grab something and never start the truck. 

Posted
11 hours ago, Pryme said:

I’m more annoyed with the loud priming fuel pump when you open any door. Even multiple times if you open a couple doors. 
I wonder if it “unprimes” if you just open the door to grab something and never start the truck. 

You have mentioned this before about your fuel pump.  I can hear mine but it's not loud or anything I would consider out of the norm.  Do you think maybe you have a problem with your pump?

Posted
2 hours ago, Jettech1 said:

You have mentioned this before about your fuel pump.  I can hear mine but it's not loud or anything I would consider out of the norm.  Do you think maybe you have a problem with your pump?

I made a video. 
 

Is this what you guys pump prime sounds like? You will hear it twice. Once when driver door opens and the second time when the key is turned.

 

 

Posted (edited)
22 minutes ago, Pryme said:

I made a video. 
 

Is this what you guys pump prime sounds like? You will hear it twice. Once when driver door opens and the second time when the key is turned.

 

 

Great video by the way.  Mine sounds exactly the same way.  Edit:  I have a 2021 Ford Explorer that doesn't make any fuel pump sounds at all.  But my 2019 Explorer Sport did.  I didn't think much of anything about it honestly.  I knew what it was doing so I never considered it a big deal.  

Edited by Jettech1
  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, Jettech1 said:

Great video by the way.  Mine sounds exactly the same way.  Edit:  I have a 2021 Ford Explorer that doesn't make any fuel pump sounds at all.  But my 2019 Explorer Sport did.  I didn't think much of anything about it honestly.  I knew what it was doing so I never considered it a big deal.  

Does yours prime more than once? 
mine will do it up to 3x depending on the sequence of doors opened and on a morning cold start, as shown on the video. 
mid I open the back door first it will prime or even dropping the tailgate will make it prime. Seems odd. I feel it should only prime if drivers door is opened or key turned. 
 

test yours cold once by dropping tailgate or opening rear doors. 
 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...