Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The owner's manual is very vague when it comes to using a WDH. It essentially states that a WDH is not required at all unless using MT or OOR tires, then only after 10,000#s. What are OOR tires anyway, AT tires? I've never heard tires called that before...

 

Anyway, then looking at the trailering info on my door it states that my tongue weight limit is 1450#s. Ok, but if using a WDH doesn't that increase the maximum tongue weight to around 2000#s? If not, then there are 3/4-ton trucks out there with much higher allowable tongue weights than our 1-ton trucks. 4k# payload but 1450# tongue weight?

 

I'm looking at conventional hitch toy haulers and most of them are already close to 1450# dry tongue weight and some are over that. But according to my door sticker my "1-ton" truck can't tow them.

 

What gives?

Screenshot_20230219_185920_Microsoft 365 (Office).jpg

20230129_154442.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm just going to assume that so long as the tongue weight stays under 1450# as shown by using scales then I'm good to go.

 

A WDH will transfer some tongue weight to the axles on the truck and the trailer, and it will show on the scales. But the amount of weight transferred will depend on the WDH and on how well it was installed. I guess GM doesn't want to give blanket numbers like other manufacturers. But they could state it like I did above so people don't get confused like I did. Other vehicles I've owned stated dead tongue weights and distributed tongue weights.

 

A 1-ton truck should be able to tow any conventional hitch trailer IMO.

  • Like 1
Posted

Remember the manual covers DRW trucks, which is why it mentions up to 20,000 lbs. For an SRW 3500, the maximum conventional trailer weight is 14,500, and max tongue weight is 1,450.
 

In my opinion there is no need to use a weight distributing hitch on a 3500hd SRW at all.  The hitch tongue weight limit is 1450 for an SRW, and the payload of the truck is typically about 4000 lbs.  

 

For a 10,000 lbs trailer as an example:  Without a wdh, with 1000 lbs on the hitch about 4 feet behind the rear axle, you are putting about 1200 lbs on the rear axle and taking about 200 lbs off the front axle, are fairly close to an ideal 50/50 front/rear weight distribution, and haven’t even “leveled” the truck yet even if you carry another 600 lbs in the bed. 
 

A big benefit of not using a wdh is you are less likely to overload and fail your trailer frame going over dips, driveways, or sudden transitions to a steep incline.  
 

Every pound you pull on the WDH chains is reacted by the ball, and significant additional bending load is added on the trailer A-frame at the front of the trailer due to the torque from the wdh. That is where you will sometimes see frames bend or break. 

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

But it makes no sense to limit the tongue weight to 1450#s. Dual wheels or not, it's the same frame. The tires, wheels, axles and suspension on a SRW are more than capable of holding more than 1450#s or else the payload would have to be less. Weight is weight, no matter where it comes from. The class V hitch itself is good for 2000#+. It's the exact same hitch and frame on SRW, DRW, Gassers and Diesels. DRW are needed to support the tongue weights of heavy 5th wheel and gooseneck trailers, which can get much heavier. Chrysler and Ford tongue weights are much higher for their 1-ton trucks (1800#-2700# on class V hitches SRW).

GM also does not have the tongue weights listed anywhere I can find other than a sticker on the truck (Chrysler and Ford is no problem). This is complete BS since a 1-ton truck should be able to tow every conventional trailer available. People buy the truck expecting to tow something since the trailer weight is well within limits and then find out the tongue weight limit is pathetic. There are conventional toy haulers out there with a dry tongue weight of 1600#s. I know people whom have a conventional toy hauler with a 1900# wet tongue weight.

Also, on some trailers having 10% of the weight on the tongue is not enough. It's fairly common to need 12%-13% for a smooth ride. That reduces the towing capacity down to around 11,000#s instead of 14,500#s.

I don't want to use a WDH, but I'm going to use this truck for the reason I bought it.

Posted
13 hours ago, Another JR said:

A big benefit of not using a wdh is you are less likely to overload and fail your trailer frame going over dips, driveways, or sudden transitions to a steep incline.  
 

Every pound you pull on the WDH chains is reacted by the ball, and significant additional bending load is added on the trailer A-frame at the front of the trailer due to the torque from the wdh. That is where you will sometimes see frames bend or break. 

For me this is where things start to get into a gray area in my mind.  You are absolutely correct of a WDH putting more stress on the trailer frame.  I use one with our camper but it's a WDH with sway control bars, not the chains.  I haven't tried towing our camper which has 1k tongue weight and another 7k on the axles without it.  I might just try it out because I've read horror stories of the front frame on campers bending and cracking due to the use of a WDH.

Posted

I’m only familiar with some of the wdh and antisway systems out there, so I don’t know exactly what you are describing. Maybe a photo or product name?  I’m just curious to learn more. Thanks. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Another JR said:

I’m only familiar with some of the wdh and antisway systems out there, so I don’t know exactly what you are describing. Maybe a photo or product name?  I’m just curious to learn more. Thanks. 

This is the one we use.  https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Fastway/FA92-00-1000.html

 

But I'm still curious as to how our camper would tow without using it.  I bought a fastway 12k hitch the other day.  I think I'll try just using that on our next outing to see if the WDH really makes a difference.

Posted

Here’s something interesting.  My 2500 is rating for a heavier gooseneck trailer and high hitch weight on a gooseneck that the door sticker posted above.  Bumper trailer rating is the same.  
 

 

6AD234D1-8FA0-4E0C-B260-5C056F5B4BF5.jpeg

Posted
5 minutes ago, Harv3589 said:

Here’s something interesting.  My 2500 is rating for a heavier gooseneck trailer and high hitch weight on a gooseneck that the door sticker posted above.  Bumper trailer rating is the same.  
 

 

6AD234D1-8FA0-4E0C-B260-5C056F5B4BF5.jpeg

That is correct.  The towing limits and tongue weights are higher using a 5th wheel.  Here's my sticker, same as yours. 

20220901_185009.jpg

Posted
Just now, Harv3589 said:

I just thought it was interesting that my 2500 had a higher gooseneck capacity than a 3500

I didn't catch that part.  That is interesting and somewhat confusing.

Posted

It’s because the limiting factor in the case of the gooseneck is the 24,000 GCWR. The 3500 weighs a little more, so it comes off the trailer weight. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Sorry if I came off a bit abrasive. I was a little upset when I was posting last night. I meant no offense to anyone here.

 

This is one of the toy haulers I am considering. As you can see the dry weight is way under my towing capacity, but the tongue weight is really close to my limit. This is the shorter one of the bunch. The longest one has a 1600# dry tongue weight. I do not like being so close to my limits when the trailer is dry.

 

Now, with toy haulers the "toy" gets loaded in the rear and that will reduce some of the tongue weight. How much depends on how much weight gets added to the rear. But there are variables which will constantly change as well. Such as this trailer has a 100 gallon water tank. Whether it is full or empty is going to change the tongue weight. If that water is in the black and grey tanks it is going to change the tongue weights. The trailer has a 40 gallon fuel tank too. How much weight is stored in the front storage area, as well as other stuff stored in all areas of the trailer is going to change tongue weights. The list goes on.

 

The point is, there are times when it's entirely possible to be a few hundred pounds lighter or heavier than the dry tongue weight. I plan to adjust rear weight as needed to keep my tongue weight in spec.

 

However, what if I wanted the 29TRX? It's dry weight is also under 10k#s. That's well within my towing capacity. But the dry hitch weight is 1600#s. So, while I could add my toy to the rear and probably get the tongue weight under 1450#s, I couldn't ever tow the trailer dry without being over the limit. Hence my anger. I would like the larger trailer, but It's too tongue heavy...

 

Screenshot_20230220_171107_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20230220_171123_Chrome.jpg

Posted
6 minutes ago, Dr1ft3r said:

Sorry if I came off a bit abrasive. I was a little upset when I was posting last night. I meant no offense to anyone here.

 

This is one of the toy haulers I am considering. As you can see the dry weight is way under my towing capacity, but the tongue weight is really close to my limit. This is the shorter one of the bunch. The longest one has a 1600# dry tongue weight. I do not like being so close to my limits when the trailer is dry.

 

Now, with toy haulers the "toy" gets loaded in the rear and that will reduce some of the tongue weight. How much depends on how much weight gets added to the rear. But there are variables which will constantly change as well. Such as this trailer has a 100 gallon water tank. Whether it is full or empty is going to change the tongue weight. If that water is in the black and grey tanks it is going to change the tongue weights. The trailer has a 40 gallon fuel tank too. How much weight is stored in the front storage area, as well as other stuff stored in all areas of the trailer is going to change tongue weights. The list goes on.

 

The point is, there are times when it's entirely possible to be a few hundred pounds lighter or heavier than the dry tongue weight. I plan to adjust rear weight as needed to keep my tongue weight in spec.

 

However, what if I wanted the 29TRX? It's dry weight is also under 10k#s. That's well within my towing capacity. But the dry hitch weight is 1600#s. So, while I could add my toy to the rear and probably get the tongue weight under 1450#s, I couldn't ever tow the trailer dry without being over the limit. Hence my anger. I would like the larger trailer, but It's too tongue heavy...

 

Screenshot_20230220_171107_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20230220_171123_Chrome.jpg

I commend you for doing your research on the weights.  So many times people are out there saying...oh yeah, my ford escape tows 12k pounds no problem....lol....but seriously I do commend you for trying to figure out the weights to stay within the ratings of your truck.  That makes you a safe guy!!  I love that!!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I would have to read back to get a better picture in my mind of some of the other comments and what they were using for a driving scenario they based the fuel mileage off of. That is why the fuel mileage conversation is extremely difficult to make fair comparisons from. If I was to be living in town and only driving around town, light to light and some longer stretches that doesn't have a light every block, and the usual stop at a grocery store and the bank and so on and so forth, my fuel mileage even during the summer time would be so bad with my truck I don't even want to know how bad it would be !. Then add in winter time and idling to warm it up to clear the windows and driving through snowy streets etc, large heavy trucks with gas engines have NEVER been worth crap for fuel mileage and why some little pot licker of a car with wheelbarrow tires and a 1300 cc four cylinder non turbo engine was the ticket to using a mere fraction of the fuel over a full size pickup.    By the way my truck has the 34" tires as its a HC but not the BFG KO3 tires ( that was an option for my truck but the sales guy couldn't figure out what the tires actually were so that never got on the order until it was too late to change the truck order ). So what fuel mileage your getting actually sounds good for "town driving" and with my truck when I go to town the fuel mileage keeps increasing as I get closer to town because it takes quite a while to get the driveline oils warmed up ( and why it always shows better fuel mileage on the return trip from town because its already warmed up ) but once I am in town that fuel mileage average just keeps dropping the more I mess around town and then has to recover back to something reasonable again by the time I get home for an over all average.    I'd be curious what your sticker says for the factory weight of your truck, mine is close around that 7700 lb due to the options it has. But anyway the long and short is, vehicle weight, higher rolling resistance heavy tires and a hefty driveline and a relatively large gas engine make for crap fuel mileage in stop and go scenarios, all one can do is drive it easy off the line at each stop and as my dad had said over the years, drive like a raw egg is under your foot and that's the best one can do. Years back with a carbed engine and if the carb was getting a bit out of tune etc as would the ignition system, the fuel mileage on pickups with larger engines was just awful compared to what your getting. We pay the fuel price penalty for driving HD trucks over some little vehicle, that is the reality. 
    • We had two Toyota’s with that engine in the mid 80s. We had 50 gallon fuel tanks, a toolbox full of tools, an air compressor and assorted parts for our equipment. We beat those up and down pipeline ROWs until we started buying diesel trucks. Then they became parts runners and first vehicles for our teenagers first cars. Our shop Forman wrecked them both two years apart when we hired him out of high school as an apprentice. Good thing he’s an excellent mechanic. It took awhile before he could be called a good driver.
    • I have a 2025 GMC Canyon Denali.   On a trip recently the engine failed.  The dealership diagnosed a bent valve and says there is a service bulletin that indicates to 'relace the engine'.  The truck only has about 14K miles and is under warranty.   The failure occurred 5/11/2026.   So far I have worked with GM Customer Assistance and Roadside Assistance.  Evidently no engines are available and nobody will offer a date when a new one will be.   Coming up on two months with no repair or timeline and no loaner from the dealership.   GMC Customer Assistance is 'ghosting' me and keeps closing the cases I've opened with no resolution.   Hoping someone can help me on how to escalate this issue.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...