Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 hours ago, Jettech1 said:

So here's exactly what I did.  I jacked up each individual tire on my camper.  I adjusted the brakes until I could barely feel a little drag on the drum.  It took a lot, the shoes weren't even close to being adjusted properly.  After hooking up my camper I pulled out of our site.  The gain was on 5 but I didn't care about that because I thought the gain didn't come into play until I pressed on my truck brakes.  So I pulled out of our site, stopped, squeezed the brake controller to 100% and it barely held me still while in drive with my foot off the brakes.  What did I do wrong?  I was thinking that with the brake controller squeezed to max that the camper brakes should be locked up.  So where did I go wrong or what am I doing wrong?  Please educate me!!

The gain is in use when you use the manual slide switch on the controller, that is how you adjust and set it.  You have to adjust the gain up until you get the brakes to where they will stop your truck without pressing the brakes. Find a good straight road that you can roll about 25 mph and adjust the gain using your switch.  

Posted (edited)
29 minutes ago, Jettech1 said:

@newdude Just to clear my mind please tell me this.  If I'm stopped in drive with no pressure on my brakes and I have the controller squeezed to the max and my truck is still rolling a bit forward....that's ok?  Regardless of the gain setting?  I'm still missing a piece of this puzzle.. Do they need rotation to work?

On flat and level it should not allow you to roll in drive at idle, but not regardless of gain setting. They do not need rotation, when activated it uses an electro magnet to engage the shoes assuming we are talking electronic controller with drum brakes on the trailer. 

Edited by Ausslo
  • Like 1
Posted
7 minutes ago, shadow gray 2020 hd said:

The gain is in use when you use the manual slide switch on the controller, that is how you adjust and set it.  You have to adjust the gain up until you get the brakes to where they will stop your truck without pressing the brakes. Find a good straight road that you can roll about 25 mph and adjust the gain using your switch.  

See this is where you all are educating me.  I was under the impression that the gain did nothing when squeezing the controller.  Thank you for that, I'm trying to learn this whole thing.  Thank you sir!!

Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, Ausslo said:

On flat and level it should not allow you to roll in drive at idle, but not regardless of gain setting. They do not need rotation, when activated it uses an electro magnet to engage the shoes assuming we are talking electronic controller with drum brakes on the trailer. 

Right!!  And that's what I thought.  If I'm stopped and in drive with no brake pedal pressure and I squeeze that controller all the way....those brakes on my camper should be locked up...right?

Edited by Jettech1
Posted (edited)

Think of it this way, there is no difference in pushing the brake or sliding the switch when it comes to activating the trailer brakes, gain controls the amount of trailer braking for both actions. The biggest reason the switch is there other than to test or set them is if the trailer starts swaying you want to grab that switch and NOT press the brake peddle and at that point they need to act just like you pushed the brake and NOT lock up, make sense?

Edited by Ausslo
  • Like 2
Posted
3 minutes ago, Ausslo said:

Think of it this way, there is no difference in pushing the brake or sliding the switch when it comes to activating the trailer brakes gain controls the amount of trailer braking for both actions. The biggest reason the switch is there other than to test or set them is if the trailer starts swaying you want to grab that switch and NOT press the brake peddle and at that point they need to act just like you pushed the brake and NOT lock up, make sense?

Dahhhh, yes and no.....my thick skull still has questions......so please answer this one question for me.  If I am sitting still in drive with no brake pressure, let's say gain is at 0.  So I reach forward and squeeze my manual controller all the way.  Shouldn't the brakes on my camper be locked up and not let me go forward at all?

Posted
1 minute ago, Jettech1 said:

Dahhhh, yes and no.....my thick skull still has questions......so please answer this one question for me.  If I am sitting still in drive with no brake pressure, let's say gain is at 0.  So I reach forward and squeeze my manual controller all the way.  Shouldn't the brakes on my camper be locked up and not let me go forward at all?

No

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Ausslo said:

No

OK, now we are getting somewhere...thank you...that was my biggest question.

Posted

Thank you all for not pointing and shouting dumbass....I'm really trying to learn here and I got some bad info right off the bat....anyhow thank you all....I really do appreciate your kindness in helping me learn.

Posted

The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. If you were closer Id say come by and I would be glad to help.  I would also say this, adjusting drum brakes is an art 😂 you eventually get a feel for it, slight drag can have a different meaning to each person. 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, Ausslo said:

The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. If you were closer Id say come by and I would be glad to help.  I would also say this, adjusting drum brakes is an art 😂 you eventually get a feel for it, slight drag can have a different meaning to each person. 

Very true sir....This topic kind of reminds me of when I first starting learning the magic of load leveling hitches...I was like WTH...how can a couple of bars put more weight on your front axle?  So I watched and read and learned and then I had that ahaaaa moment.  There was one video that finally put that last piece of the puzzle in my brain and I was like ok....I get it now...lol...

  • Like 1
Posted

This is the video I should have watched from the beginning explaining everything you all explained to me.  How in the hell I got my wires crossed so bad I will never know.  But thank you all for being patient with me as I'm totally new to this camping, HD truck and well, everything else....lol....

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
On 5/10/2023 at 8:22 PM, Jettech1 said:

This is the video I should have watched from the beginning explaining everything you all explained to me.  How in the hell I got my wires crossed so bad I will never know.  But thank you all for being patient with me as I'm totally new to this camping, HD truck and well, everything else....lol....

 

 


Everyone has to learn something for the first time.

Also, after I set my gain at just below having the trailer wheels locking up, I dial it down just a tad bit more if I can feel the trailer pulling the truck just before I come to a complete stop. It probably doesn't hurt anything when the trailer does that, but I don't like it.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Dr1ft3r said:


Everyone has to learn something for the first time.

Also, after I set my gain at just below having the trailer wheels locking up, I dial it down just a tad bit more if I can feel the trailer pulling the truck just before I come to a complete stop. It probably doesn't hurt anything when the trailer does that, but I don't like it.

Thank you for the tip, I'll try it out.

Posted

Electric trailer brakes must have thewheel in motion in order for the brakes to apply (at whatever force they are set at) it works on a lever type effect that then applys outward force to the shoes. 

Unfortunately I think your problem goes deeper than settings. My last 3 trailers (2012,2018,2021) all had the rear seals blown out by an overzealous person power greasing the hubs, who knows where and why but the brakes were all coated and 2 required a complete replacement of the brakes. The last 2 trailers were a Grand design Imagine 2600RB and a Reflection 337RLS. If I read everything correctly the next move will be to tear the brakes apart and inspect them. If I was going to Vegas I would put $100 on the grease issue. This is why I hate the EZ lube system. 

No amount of gain will overcome greased brakes. 

Resized_20210511_135254_7393.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can someone tell me where the video processing module is in a 2023 Silverado? I'm getting conflicting results that it's in the front passenger area or the rear passenger area behind the seat.
    • Yes I agree, its what amounts to free advertising to let people know about his UOA testing company, and not that there is anything wrong with that but certainly that is a motivator for putting out videos about the science of oil as well as other topics such as oil and air filtration etc. The interesting part I found with his last video is not only the physics behind the reason for the varying wear due to a diesels working torque range causing more bearing load and that higher viscosity oil is of benefit, it was also that the chemistry behind the GM Dexos 0W-20 and the Mobil Dexos licensed 0W-20 are far enough apart that its showing up with a difference in wear even though the two oils are matched in viscosity and in that comparison viscosity was not having the finger pointed at it.    There are a few youtubers out there or one anyway that I have watched a bit of who has gone through the pains of accessing various countries manuals for a certain engine platform and while in the US/Canada it may say use 0W-20 or what have you for some Toyota product, in some other countries it sings a very different tune for the very same engine with the typical traditional oil viscosity/ambient temperature charts to help choose which oil viscosity is correct for the conditions the vehicle will be used in and in some cases its taken an engine in a US manual that states only use 0W-20 as per warranty coverage and yet that same engine in certain other countries may have up to a 15W-40 etc oil option that meets the spec. Another words the guy who is driving through Death Valley or Phoenix and south weather at 120f is often being fed a line of bs by the US system that has forced vehicle companies to restrict the warranty to a specific low viscosity oil for anterior reasons as well as the long drain interval suggestions.    Thankfully youtube is free ( yet anyway ) for viewers to sift through information and of course comes with the good and the bad ( truth and lies ) and we can choose to turn off/not watch what a person finds is bs or just not interested in the topic.         
    • No doubt... But, as someone who doesn't pay for his services, but who has provided a few views/clicks on his Youtube platform, the data around the Mobil oil testing I think does have some value including to "freeloaders" like me.   A lot of what he's doing is likely showing the OE's work in their oil selection, something that many of us had kind of assumed was true all along, a good balance of both excellent protection and efficiency.
    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...