Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For you guys that are saying your part has arrived and has been or will be installed this week, how did your dealer get the part when other dealers are saying they haven't received a single part from GM in 27 days! I'm terribly confused. Thoughts.

Posted
18 hours ago, MJWildlife said:

For you guys that are saying your part has arrived and has been or will be installed this week, how did your dealer get the part when other dealers are saying they haven't received a single part from GM in 27 days! I'm terribly confused. Thoughts.

I’m sure it just depends on what part it is, where it’s coming from and where the strikes are happening.  Ordered a new trailer camera through the dealer parts department last week. Came in 3 days later.   
 

Have a friend needing lifters replaced in a Tahoe with a 5.3.  Lifters and all other hardware came in, but still waiting on a gasket for over 3 weeks. 

Posted

Had the TSB done about 4 weeks ago. The last couple days the “check trailer wiring “ issue came back. After thinking through all of this there might also be an issues driving in the rain and moisture. I pulled fuse 84 yesterday and it did not make any difference. The first time I experienced this was also driving in the rain. Going into the dealer Monday. However I need to drive all day in the rain to get there. 

Posted
5 hours ago, JRKSR said:

Had the TSB done about 4 weeks ago. The last couple days the “check trailer wiring “ issue came back. After thinking through all of this there might also be an issues driving in the rain and moisture. I pulled fuse 84 yesterday and it did not make any difference. The first time I experienced this was also driving in the rain. Going into the dealer Monday. However I need to drive all day in the rain to get there. 

Interesting. Did it disconnect the brakes as well, or just give you the "check trailer wiring" message? Let us know what you find out on Monday.

Posted

Dealer said “they couldn’t duplicate the condition”! Of course they couldn’t, all they did was connect the truck to their trailer simulator. Obviously didn’t read the TSB. They did say there was a computer update so maybe that will help. Towing in another week so I’ll see what happens. Probably going to call GM and start a CASE with them. Has anyone else have the condition come back after the TSB was bone?

Posted

 

We have a 2024 Chevy Silverado 3500.  We were excited when we saw an update dated 9/15/23 to TS-NA-149 indicating the installation of a new trailer brake controller would fix the problem with towing our 5th wheel.   Our dealer replaced the brake controller and we took off for our trip.  Unfortunately 300 miles into our trip we lost brakes.  What is even worse, we don’t even get a warning this time that we have lost brakes.  

 

Has anyone else had the brake controller replaced with the part in the TSB and still have problems? 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 10/17/2023 at 7:10 PM, JRKSR said:

Dealer said “they couldn’t duplicate the condition”! Of course they couldn’t, all they did was connect the truck to their trailer simulator. Obviously didn’t read the TSB. They did say there was a computer update so maybe that will help. Towing in another week so I’ll see what happens. Probably going to call GM and start a CASE with them. Has anyone else have the condition come back after the TSB was bone?

any updates?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

So I just got a 24 GMC Denali Ultimate, and picked up my 5th wheel, and didnt have any screen messages except for 1 Trailer Gain not remembered, or something to that effect, but it didnt feel right when braking. I didnt really notice it until the last few blocks to storage, but now I'm wondering if the trailer brakes were actually working. I have Disc with Electric over Hydraulic with a Hydra Star. Someone mentioned it earlier, but didnt elaborate on it again. I found this thread trying to research why I couldn't seem to find a type of trailer brake setting anywhere like I had on my Ram.

Posted

I have the same Brake Connection error on my new 2024 Chevy 2500, pulling a travel trailer with Solar and Lithium batteries. I had my Electrical Engineer friend look at it and we have come up with a (very inexpensive) solution without disrupting the Solar charging to the truck. If anyone is interested as to what I have done, please email me at [email protected].

Posted

So I took my Truck in today to have it looked at. Pretty much what we've all come to expect, cant find anything wrong, no surprise there. Anyway they gave me this document with a lot of information in it you guys may find helpful. There's a dedicated section about Electro/Hydraulic brakes. Before I get into that, I want to tell GM that there doc filled with why it maybe the trailer is offensive at best. We all have new trucks here. You know what that means GM, we had a truck that we traded in on your 6 figure trucks that are having brake problems that didn't exist on our previous trucks. You know what that means. ITS YOUR TRUCK, YOUR LACK OF PROPER TESTING, AND YOU PUTTING LIVES AT RISK !!!!!

 

Some 22k pound missile with no brakes is going to kill someone, and then you're going to be on the hook for millions, because of a $100 part. My Ram - go in select Hydraulic over Electric, 5 years no problems, hmmmm. Apparently it doesn't require an adapter, or Plug, and its not my trailer. We buy these trucks for pulling things, you know like in all of your commercials, and you cant even mange to get that right, but my seat will give me a back rub. You need to adjust your priorities.

 

Moving on. The doc states that applying the brake to lightly, or the Gain not set correctly can cause the pump to not reach the 20-30% to activate the pump. "This is normal"... "Pressing the brake pedal harder will help alleviate the concern"

 

So don't slow down like a normal person, slam on the brakes, then they'll work correctly, seriously !!

 

So I'll be hooking my 5th wheel back up, and testing to see if I'm experiencing these issues. This first time GM customer maybe their last GM purchase ever, and traded before the first payment is even due.

Chevy_GMC Doc ID 6358271.pdf

Posted

The updated controller fixed my issues.  Also wired in a diode just to make sure the trailer can't back-feed, which is also working great.  Also came up with a workaround for the running lights with PWM not being able to power up my cameras.  I tied those into an existing 12v circuit off the house battery with a switch in the passthrough storage to enable/disable the running lights.  What's cool about that is now I can turn those lights on/off anytime, whether hitched up or not to turn my cameras into a security system.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 10/10/2023 at 9:27 PM, Tatertoter said:

Did this plug into the camper fuse panel or inline to the 7 way connector?   Thanks.

My camper has a J box that has all the connections from the truck 7 way to the camper. I used a volt meter to identify the power that the truck sends to the camper and installed the diode into it. 
When I was done you should read 0 volts on that wire at the 7way plug.  This problem really only happened after I was using the shore power at a resort and it charged the camper battery to a higher
 voltage than the battery in the truck. I have verified this with a volt/ohm meter. The camper battery voltage was anywhere from a half a volt to 1 volt higher than the trucks voltage and this is what is tripping the disconnect error.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 
    • Question for you Grumpy, why is diesel so much more than gasoline? Seems to me that it may be slightly a little less refined than gas and it doesn't have 10% alcohol which presumably lowers the price of gas
    • Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...