Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For you guys that are saying your part has arrived and has been or will be installed this week, how did your dealer get the part when other dealers are saying they haven't received a single part from GM in 27 days! I'm terribly confused. Thoughts.

Posted
18 hours ago, MJWildlife said:

For you guys that are saying your part has arrived and has been or will be installed this week, how did your dealer get the part when other dealers are saying they haven't received a single part from GM in 27 days! I'm terribly confused. Thoughts.

I’m sure it just depends on what part it is, where it’s coming from and where the strikes are happening.  Ordered a new trailer camera through the dealer parts department last week. Came in 3 days later.   
 

Have a friend needing lifters replaced in a Tahoe with a 5.3.  Lifters and all other hardware came in, but still waiting on a gasket for over 3 weeks. 

Posted

Had the TSB done about 4 weeks ago. The last couple days the “check trailer wiring “ issue came back. After thinking through all of this there might also be an issues driving in the rain and moisture. I pulled fuse 84 yesterday and it did not make any difference. The first time I experienced this was also driving in the rain. Going into the dealer Monday. However I need to drive all day in the rain to get there. 

Posted
5 hours ago, JRKSR said:

Had the TSB done about 4 weeks ago. The last couple days the “check trailer wiring “ issue came back. After thinking through all of this there might also be an issues driving in the rain and moisture. I pulled fuse 84 yesterday and it did not make any difference. The first time I experienced this was also driving in the rain. Going into the dealer Monday. However I need to drive all day in the rain to get there. 

Interesting. Did it disconnect the brakes as well, or just give you the "check trailer wiring" message? Let us know what you find out on Monday.

Posted

Dealer said “they couldn’t duplicate the condition”! Of course they couldn’t, all they did was connect the truck to their trailer simulator. Obviously didn’t read the TSB. They did say there was a computer update so maybe that will help. Towing in another week so I’ll see what happens. Probably going to call GM and start a CASE with them. Has anyone else have the condition come back after the TSB was bone?

Posted

 

We have a 2024 Chevy Silverado 3500.  We were excited when we saw an update dated 9/15/23 to TS-NA-149 indicating the installation of a new trailer brake controller would fix the problem with towing our 5th wheel.   Our dealer replaced the brake controller and we took off for our trip.  Unfortunately 300 miles into our trip we lost brakes.  What is even worse, we don’t even get a warning this time that we have lost brakes.  

 

Has anyone else had the brake controller replaced with the part in the TSB and still have problems? 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 10/17/2023 at 7:10 PM, JRKSR said:

Dealer said “they couldn’t duplicate the condition”! Of course they couldn’t, all they did was connect the truck to their trailer simulator. Obviously didn’t read the TSB. They did say there was a computer update so maybe that will help. Towing in another week so I’ll see what happens. Probably going to call GM and start a CASE with them. Has anyone else have the condition come back after the TSB was bone?

any updates?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

So I just got a 24 GMC Denali Ultimate, and picked up my 5th wheel, and didnt have any screen messages except for 1 Trailer Gain not remembered, or something to that effect, but it didnt feel right when braking. I didnt really notice it until the last few blocks to storage, but now I'm wondering if the trailer brakes were actually working. I have Disc with Electric over Hydraulic with a Hydra Star. Someone mentioned it earlier, but didnt elaborate on it again. I found this thread trying to research why I couldn't seem to find a type of trailer brake setting anywhere like I had on my Ram.

Posted

I have the same Brake Connection error on my new 2024 Chevy 2500, pulling a travel trailer with Solar and Lithium batteries. I had my Electrical Engineer friend look at it and we have come up with a (very inexpensive) solution without disrupting the Solar charging to the truck. If anyone is interested as to what I have done, please email me at [email protected].

Posted

So I took my Truck in today to have it looked at. Pretty much what we've all come to expect, cant find anything wrong, no surprise there. Anyway they gave me this document with a lot of information in it you guys may find helpful. There's a dedicated section about Electro/Hydraulic brakes. Before I get into that, I want to tell GM that there doc filled with why it maybe the trailer is offensive at best. We all have new trucks here. You know what that means GM, we had a truck that we traded in on your 6 figure trucks that are having brake problems that didn't exist on our previous trucks. You know what that means. ITS YOUR TRUCK, YOUR LACK OF PROPER TESTING, AND YOU PUTTING LIVES AT RISK !!!!!

 

Some 22k pound missile with no brakes is going to kill someone, and then you're going to be on the hook for millions, because of a $100 part. My Ram - go in select Hydraulic over Electric, 5 years no problems, hmmmm. Apparently it doesn't require an adapter, or Plug, and its not my trailer. We buy these trucks for pulling things, you know like in all of your commercials, and you cant even mange to get that right, but my seat will give me a back rub. You need to adjust your priorities.

 

Moving on. The doc states that applying the brake to lightly, or the Gain not set correctly can cause the pump to not reach the 20-30% to activate the pump. "This is normal"... "Pressing the brake pedal harder will help alleviate the concern"

 

So don't slow down like a normal person, slam on the brakes, then they'll work correctly, seriously !!

 

So I'll be hooking my 5th wheel back up, and testing to see if I'm experiencing these issues. This first time GM customer maybe their last GM purchase ever, and traded before the first payment is even due.

Chevy_GMC Doc ID 6358271.pdf

Posted

The updated controller fixed my issues.  Also wired in a diode just to make sure the trailer can't back-feed, which is also working great.  Also came up with a workaround for the running lights with PWM not being able to power up my cameras.  I tied those into an existing 12v circuit off the house battery with a switch in the passthrough storage to enable/disable the running lights.  What's cool about that is now I can turn those lights on/off anytime, whether hitched up or not to turn my cameras into a security system.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 10/10/2023 at 9:27 PM, Tatertoter said:

Did this plug into the camper fuse panel or inline to the 7 way connector?   Thanks.

My camper has a J box that has all the connections from the truck 7 way to the camper. I used a volt meter to identify the power that the truck sends to the camper and installed the diode into it. 
When I was done you should read 0 volts on that wire at the 7way plug.  This problem really only happened after I was using the shore power at a resort and it charged the camper battery to a higher
 voltage than the battery in the truck. I have verified this with a volt/ohm meter. The camper battery voltage was anywhere from a half a volt to 1 volt higher than the trucks voltage and this is what is tripping the disconnect error.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...