2023 Changing Shocks?

[traderfjp]

I have a 2023 Silverado LTZ & Z71 package. The ride is OK and I live on a mountain with lots of curvy roads and would like a smoother pavement ride and less body roll.  I'm running 20" Wrangler Trail Runner tires. I was thinking of replacing the stock Rancho shocks with Bilstein 5100's or Fox 2.0 shocks.  From what I read the 5100's are stiffer and reduce body roll but the Fox shocks are better off road (do very little) and have a softer ride with more body roll.  I have les than 1k miles on the truck. Does this sound like I would gain much from the swap?  Any preference on shocks? Does anyone know if Chevy gives us a sway bar?

[Vince Judy]

Your main difference is the fox's will be rebuildable down the road if you desire, but also at a cost of nee 5100s. Both valvings at the end of the day are pretty simialr. You would be happy with either. Just the fact your upgrading to a shock with nitro and vehicle specific valving is the big thing. 

[GETGONE]

The trucks have a front sway bar, but no rear bar. The sway bars effect the opposite end of the vehicle they are installed on. The front bar helps control the rear, but there's nothing on the rear to help control the front. Helwig is the only company I've seen that offers stock height or lifted sway bars front and rear. Belltech has bars but they seem to only be for lowered trucks. Sway bars will do WAY more for body roll than the shocks will. Tire sidewall stiffness also plays a role in how a vehicle handles. I know the OEM 20" Bridgestone AT's I put on a set of aftermarket wheels have more bounce and roll than the stock 20" Goodyear Territory MT's that came on my truck.

[Gangly]

The Bilsteins and Eibachs are your best best.  I installed Eibachs around 20k miles and couldn't be any happier with the results. I have an extra/spare set of Eibach front shocks that I keep in the garage to replace the current Eibachs when they wear out, but I have approximately 80K miles on this set and they still feel like new.  

[SVG]

I'd also consider DSSV Multimatics. I added them to my 21' AT4 and they really work.

 

They are soft on the highway, almost like riding a magic carpet. But they permit very little body roll and zero pogo effect.

 

Off-road at speed they're great. Slower off-road they're better than stock for sure but the difference isn't as dramatic.

[Naughty Donkey Performance]

Bilsteins (#6112 on the front and 5100's on the rear"REALLY firmed up my ride and reduced body roll significantly.

The Bilstein 6112's on the front  are actually for me too firm for my daily driving, however when I am towing my 24' enclosed car hauler it feels way more "planted' and safe in mountain passes and corners.

The Ranchos that it came with were a VERY big surprise to me as to how crappy and easy to compress they were, I had no previous experience with that brand until this truck.

 

[Gangly]

12 hours ago, Naughty Donkey Performance said:

Bilsteins (#6112 on the front and 5100's on the rear"REALLY firmed up my ride and reduced body roll significantly.

The Bilstein 6112's on the front  are actually for me too firm for my daily driving, however when I am towing my 24' enclosed car hauler it feels way more "planted' and safe in mountain passes and corners.

The Ranchos that it came with were a VERY big surprise to me as to how crappy and easy to compress they were, I had no previous experience with that brand until this truck.

 

What's really interesting is that the Rancho aftermarket shocks are really good, 100 times better than the crap put on the Z71 package.

[Naughty Donkey Performance]

6 hours ago, Gangly said:

What's really interesting is that the Rancho aftermarket shocks are really good, 100 times better than the crap put on the Z71 package.

Wierd as I always had heard good things about them as well.

But yeah these ones I can compress easily with ONE hand and 20k miles on them.

[Gangly]

1 hour ago, Naughty Donkey Performance said:

Wierd as I always had heard good things about them as well.

But yeah these ones I can compress easily with ONE hand and 20k miles on them.

I also removed all 4 Ranchos at 20K miles to replace them with Eibachs, and I was amazed how easily I could compress the Rancho shocks with very little effort.  Then again, both front shocks were leaking so that might be contributory.  Either way, I went with Eibach and have never looked back.  99k miles on the truck so far, 79K on the Eibachs, and they still drive like new, I couldn't be happier. 

[KOLDUS2023RST]

i have eibach stage 1 level kit on my 23 rst 2wd and they are awesome !

[17Z71]

I vote for the Fox 2.0 coilovers and rear shocks.  I'm partial cause I just did them on mine and loved them on my previous truck. I have never used the Bilstein's so I can't compare the two. They are a whole different level than the stock Z71 Ranchos.  Here is mine Fox 2.0 coilovers preset at 2' and the rear with 2' blocks and Fox 2.0 shocks.  

 

 

[17Z71]

They are more expensive but in my opinion I'm okay with that because they are rebuildable and higher quality to me.  My body roll is gone.  I doubt you'd notice the difference between these and Billsteins as far as body roll, unless you were racing the truck up Pikes Peak lol.  

[Grumpy Bear]

Shocks do not control body roll. They influence the RATE of roll but not the amount. Put it on a skid pad and film it. If the spring is soft enough to hit the bump stop it will, no matter how much dampening is dialed in short of infinite. In esses you may have enough dampening that less travel v time has happened between changes of direction that it only 'appears' to have less roll.

 

Roll bars control body roll and they control the end they are installed on. Effectively they are torsion springs connecting the right-side tire to the left and visa versa. You can put so much bar in the car that on hard turn in you lift the inside rear tire making is 'appear' that the tail is wagging the dog. 

 

A damper should allow 90% of the total travel when hitting the worst bump in the circuit at a speed that is 90% of the fastest you plan to attack at. Bump stops are there when you guess wrong. 

 

The right spring is one that holds the shock at mid travel statically loaded at the preload that gives the proper ride height and satisfies the above paragraph. As truck are meant to be loaded and often are not, they are sprung too heavy for empty work. You cannot valve that out. You can improve it directionally, but it will never be 'right'. 

 

Most DIY builders flat ignore the physics and build to the wish or a look. If slicing and dicing the corners is your thing, then a lift is a major step in the wrong direction to meet the goal. If Bently comfort is your thing.... be prepared to lose some utility. There is no 'one size fits all perfectly'. 

[RedLT]

23 hours ago, Naughty Donkey Performance said:

Wierd as I always had heard good things about them as well.

But yeah these ones I can compress easily with ONE hand and 20k miles on them.

 

LOL, you compressed them one handed because your arms are the size of my calves, I've seen your YT shock install.

[17Z71]

14 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Shocks do not control body roll. They influence the RATE of roll but not the amount. Put it on a skid pad and film it. If the spring is soft enough to hit the bump stop it will, no matter how much dampening is dialed in short of infinite. In esses you may have enough dampening that less travel v time has happened between changes of direction that it only 'appears' to have less roll.

 

Roll bars control body roll and they control the end they are installed on. Effectively they are torsion springs connecting the right-side tire to the left and visa versa. You can put so much bar in the car that on hard turn in you lift the inside rear tire making is 'appear' that the tail is wagging the dog. 

 

A damper should allow 90% of the total travel when hitting the worst bump in the circuit at a speed that is 90% of the fastest you plan to attack at. Bump stops are there when you guess wrong. 

 

The right spring is one that holds the shock at mid travel statically loaded at the preload that gives the proper ride height and satisfies the above paragraph. As truck are meant to be loaded and often are not, they are sprung too heavy for empty work. You cannot valve that out. You can improve it directionally, but it will never be 'right'. 

 

Most DIY builders flat ignore the physics and build to the wish or a look. If slicing and dicing the corners is your thing, then a lift is a major step in the wrong direction to meet the goal. If Bently comfort is your thing.... be prepared to lose some utility. There is no 'one size fits all perfectly'. 

That is a great explanation!  I want to learn more and hear more about your real-world testing of these scientific truths with the specific coilovers and shocks the poster asked about.  In real world driving with most people in these trucks the rate of roll and rebound is more important that the total amount they can in 'esses" physically handle.  It's sway bars not "roll" bars and nobody is skid padding their 1/2 tons to test, nor cares about hitting bump stops on their 1/2-ton daily driver.