Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
18 hours ago, rdonarski said:

I have a 2020 withe the snowplow prep package and my son has a 2016 w/o it. I think his has a more comfortable ride, but his is the LTZ and mine is the WT. I figure that could play into that. I would never put a snowplow on it. Just came with the truck.

Thanks for sharing.... I would agree, yours in all likelihood would play a difference. Other than that, I would think between the years of yours and your sons there would be some balance due to the newer suspension's. Living here in Michigan, if I get a chance to ride one with and w/o this package, I'll be able to know pretty quick. Thanks again, appreciate it. Ray 👍

Posted
11 hours ago, 64BAwagon said:

With the 3500 chassis pulling a 36ft mid profile 5th wheel I really didnt need the extra capacity on the front axle but for the small cost for the upgrade I always go for more capacity. 

Absolutely! Thanks for sharing. Ray 👍

Posted
9 hours ago, MTU Alum said:

On 4wd diesels crew cabs, the snow plow prep is just one torsion bar higher.  On gas trucks, you could be two or torsion bar sizes higher for snow plow.

 

#iworkforGM

Thanks.... That's great information. Maybe, just being a heavier torsion bar won't make a huge difference in ride. With that being said as you know, normally under load gives you a little smoother ride. tahnak again. Ray 👍 

Posted
10 hours ago, MTU Alum said:

On 4wd diesels crew cabs, the snow plow prep is just one torsion bar higher.  On gas trucks, you could be two or torsion bar sizes higher for snow plow.

 

#iworkforGM

So is the actual tube diameter larger on the bigger torsion bars? I know my truck is 5600 front and 6600 rear. I think that’s the biggest for a gas truck?

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Pryme said:

So is the actual tube diameter larger on the bigger torsion bars? I know my truck is 5600 front and 6600 rear. I think that’s the biggest for a gas truck?

 

You might be thinking of sway bars, not torsion bars. Only the front has torsion bars (instead of leaf or coil springs for front).

  • Like 1
Posted

I had a '21 Denali with the snow plow camper package and now have a '24 Denali Ultimate without and the ride is noticeably softer without just my two cents.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Pryme said:

So is the actual tube diameter larger on the bigger torsion bars? I know my truck is 5600 front and 6600 rear. I think that’s the biggest for a gas truck?

They are solid bars, with a hexes formed on on the ends in a 'upsetter'. (it's a forging process)

(for a few years I worked for a vender than made torsion bars...)

 

Anyway, hexes and length will be the same so they fit the trucks, diameter gets changed to change spring rate. 

If you're ever changing them, there are RH and LH versions.  Yes, it matters.

Edited by redwngr
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

The diameter changes with rate.  5600 lbs is the highest on 2020 to 2023 L8T.  For 2024, L8Ts can get 6000 lbs.  This is due to extra weight of 10sp trans.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
19 hours ago, HawkScot said:

 

You might be thinking of sway bars, not torsion bars. Only the front has torsion bars (instead of leaf or coil springs for front).

No I know these trucks don’t have sway bars. I know they are only in the front I’ve been under my truck a bunch. I was just talking about the weights front and rear. 

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, clongtine said:

I had a '21 Denali with the snow plow camper package and now have a '24 Denali Ultimate without and the ride is noticeably softer without just my two cents.

First, Congrat's on your New Ultimate!! Thank You for sharing this great information! Your two cents is very much appreciated. Ray 👍

Posted (edited)

I started out with 5600 lb bars on my 3500 hd cclb srw as “camper springs.”  I did not like the suspension dynamics.  The front would bounce up faster than the rear when going over dips at highway speed. I changed mine to the standard 5200 lb springs for that model. The ride is better and the front pitch up over dips is gone.  If you are not actually going to put the extra weight on the front I would recommend staying away from camper or plow springs. 
 

If anyone has questions about what is involved in changing them I can answer questions or direct you to my post describing the job.  It was easier than I expected. 

Edited by Another JR
  • Like 1
Posted

Yesterday I was working my job as a boat inspector at a local boat ramp (checking for invasive species). A gentleman pulled up with a 2500HD LTZ Z71 Sport. Nice truck. I was giving him crap on it being overkill to pull his pontoon boat out. He said he uses it mainly for pulling a large 5th wheel. Has over 80K miles on it already. he and his friend both commented how rough it rides when not pulling the 5th wheel. I asked and he said it has the snowplow option too (although he like me never plans on using it). Anyhow, it made me feel better that it isn't just the difference between the WT and LTZ that makes the rough ride. I really don't mind mine, but this gives me ammunition when my wife complains about it. It's not just because I was cheap.....for a change!

  • Like 1
Posted

I’ve had my share of 3/4 and one tons. They all were used for pulling. My first order of business after purchasing was adding a 100 gallon fuel tank and a tank top toolbox. It was loaded with all the tools I needed up to 3/4 inch drive. I even had a small air compressor. The tool box also housed a decent jack and stands. Not pulling my back tire air pressure was lowered. All this I consider necessary for any kind of pulling, especially the fuel tank. That all contributes to decent ride quality. There’s a ying and yang with everything. 

  • Like 2
Posted
7 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

I’ve had my share of 3/4 and one tons. They all were used for pulling. My first order of business after purchasing was adding a 100 gallon fuel tank and a tank top toolbox. It was loaded with all the tools I needed up to 3/4 inch drive. I even had a small air compressor. The tool box also housed a decent jack and stands. Not pulling my back tire air pressure was lowered. All this I consider necessary for any kind of pulling, especially the fuel tank. That all contributes to decent ride quality. There’s a ying and yang with everything. 

I agree. I own a skid steer. Pulling that with my 3/4 tone is lots better than it used to be with my 1/2 ton where sometimes I had my doubt about what was pulling what. I have a car, a SUV and my truck. If I'm not paying attention, I find my truck to be the vehicle I'm most likely to be speeding in. Just doesn't seem like it's going that fast.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 7/1/2023 at 11:09 PM, Another JR said:

I started out with 5600 lb bars on my 3500 hd cclb srw as “camper springs.”  I did not like the suspension dynamics.  The front would bounce up faster than the rear when going over dips at highway speed. I changed mine to the standard 5200 lb springs for that model. The ride is better and the front pitch up over dips is gone.  If you are not actually going to put the extra weight on the front I would recommend staying away from camper or plow springs. 
 

If anyone has questions about what is involved in changing them I can answer questions or direct you to my post describing the job.  It was easier than I expected. 

Thanks for the great information. That sounds pretty rough.... After hearing the stories here, I'm going to stay away from any suspension changes other than stock. My heaviest load is my boat at approx. 7,500lb's in which my 2018 2500HD Denali handle's very easily. Also, it appears that these suspension packages may raise the truck one to two inches. My attached garage door is only two inches higher than the spec's of the Ultimate. I do have a pole barn which has a 10' overhead door but, I would rather use my attached garage. Biggest problem is, everything in transit has either the 3500 leaf spring or snow plow package on them. Closest one without, is 260 miles away with the color I want. Thanks again, appreciate it. Ray 👍

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. 
    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...