Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
14 minutes ago, swathdiver said:

Mobil One stinks compared to ACDelco's oil.

 

You do know XOM makes GM's oil, right? They don't make a better oil for GM than they do for themselves, do they?

 

🤔

Posted

Infineum Insight | Striking the right balance

 

Read it all but take note of that last paragraph. This work is NOT YET REALIZED and the benefit between a 0W20 and a 15W40 on fuel economy is but 2 to 3%. However, the marketing machine is already in play. 

 

OEM's use to carry out RESEARCH in labs and on test tracks and fretted it all out before releasing it to the public. Today there is little such Bonafide research. YOU are the laboratory. They have adopted the MicroSoft methodology. Get it close, sort of. Release it and let is fail in the 'real world' and then patch it just until the warranty cost is in control. 

 

Trust is no longer valued. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Do not use oil additives such as Slick 50 or STP as they increase the viscosity of the oil and will cause the VVT to start malfunctioning.

Posted (edited)

In terms of keeping rings clean among the boutique brands- HPL. Amsoil will clean but not as aggressively. Same for Red Line who uses more ester than the other two but uses less polar esters.

HPL - Strong cleaning action, shear/thermal stability.
Amsoil - Long change intervals, durability.
Red Line - High heat tolerance, shear stability.

 

Red Line does use the most amount of ester per grade ranging from 20-40%.  Their latest SDS show 50-70% PAO.  Dave G. told me some grades use up to 40%.

 

The interesting thing is, not all esters can clean the same.  HPL specifically chose select esters that are extremely polar and clean.  They also blend in AN's which don't compete for surface space like esters.

 

Among the readily available oils, Mobil 1 FS 0w40 and 0w40 Super Car are standouts.  So much so that the HPL owner said they are fantastic and would use in his own car.  

 

The latest SP variant though of the 0w40 no longer shows an oxidation spike over 30.  It's now around 7 and Mobil is now using some secret sauce in their blends.  Next generation.

 

Have a read:

 

Mobil 1 x Chevrolet Performance

 

 

Edited by TunaFresh
  • Like 1
Posted

I have never used additives. As far as cleaning, if you change oil more often then cleaning doesn't matter IMO.

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

You do know XOM makes GM's oil, right? They don't make a better oil for GM than they do for themselves, do they?

 

🤔

 

I don't know who XOM is.  The MSDS for my oil says that it was made by Phillips 66 Lubricants.  You and I went over the specs about 4-5 years ago right before I started using it.  It was just under Red Line in viscosity.  I would imagine that a manufacturer would produce a product to the specs given to them by the one who hired them and that it would be tested to see if it met the customer's requirements.  As part of the contract, their may or may not be a clause whereby the company who made that product could use it as their own.  

Posted
7 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

@Jworks

These choices you made pushed wear rates out past the far right of the lower of these two graphs.

 

And these two graphs point out the difference between the OEM/EPA goals for your motor [upper] and your goals for your motor [lower]. I'm on that bus with you. 

 

 

Feature

 

OK, much of this is beyond my understanding.  But it seems to me you are saying, especially in the lower graph, that my thinking (on the old '94 GMC, 4.3) by adding the STP and going to 20w40 then later 20w50 was reducing my engine wear.  If thats what you're saying, that was my goal in the first place.  And, I'm assuming the top chart means I was way out of bounds as for gas mileage.  I honestly didn't care about that.  Longevity of the engine was my goal.  I got 19mpg on that engine.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
48 minutes ago, swathdiver said:

 

I don't know who XOM is.  The MSDS for my oil says that it was made by Phillips 66 Lubricants.  You and I went over the specs about 4-5 years ago right before I started using it.  It was just under Red Line in viscosity.  I would imagine that a manufacturer would produce a product to the specs given to them by the one who hired them and that it would be tested to see if it met the customer's requirements.  As part of the contract, their may or may not be a clause whereby the company who made that product could use it as their own.  

Swathdiver, he means Exxon-Mobil.  XOM is the stock symbol .

Edited by Jworks
  • Like 2
Posted
44 minutes ago, Jworks said:

OK, much of this is beyond my understanding.  But it seems to me you are saying, especially in the lower graph, that my thinking (on the old '94 GMC, 4.3) by adding the STP and going to 20w40 then later 20w50 was reducing my engine wear.  If thats what you're saying, that was my goal in the first place.  And, I'm assuming the top chart means I was way out of bounds as for gas mileage.  I honestly didn't care about that.  Longevity of the engine was my goal.  I got 19mpg on that engine.

 

Higher HTHS (high temperature, high shear a.k.a Operating viscosity), yes IN GENERAL reduces wear. There is also such a thing as 'too much of a good thing'.  Not getting oil pumping quick enough in cold weather also causes wear.

 

Take a look at this chart: Note the data? Then compare with the values from the mid 1960's in the chart below.  

 

Delo 400LE 5W40 full synthetic - TDIClub Forums

 

As a much young man these were the specs: 

 

Engine-oils-viscosity-values-at-100-o-C-and-the-high-shear-viscosity-measured-at-150-o-C.png.8f5e8b66bdc5c68a9a1c0ceb18be8e21.png

 

As you can see these values are declining. These older charts are rapidly disappearing from the internet. 

 

You can find modern oils with old time HTHS numbers. You have to look for them and they will not be on a O Reilly's or Walmart shelf. 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Jworks said:

Swathdiver, he means Exxon-Mobil.  XOM is the stock symbol .

 

Latest DATED info I can find is Mobil is still the supplier and has been since 1990. Trail does get thin past 2015 but it is the ONLY supplier for Dexos R so my belief is they all are. 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Latest DATED info I can find is Mobil is still the supplier and has been since 1990. Trail does get thin past 2015 but it is the ONLY supplier for Dexos R so my belief is they all are. 

image.thumb.png.aa8ba231e420261d140d4bf82a5cfeb4.png

This is dated July 2017 and does not appear to have changed as I download a new SDS after every purchased and they've all been the same.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 8/29/2023 at 3:27 PM, diyer2 said:

I have never used additives. As far as cleaning, if you change oil more often then cleaning doesn't matter IMO.

 

Indeed.  As a preventative measure, you ideally want strong oxidation resistance, good detergent/dispersant package and lower SA (for GDI).  Solvency depends on the ester type and certainly helps.  Not all esters are created equal.  More specifically, Red Line's cleaning ability is very questionable. I would argue Amsoil SS cleans better than Red Line from what I've seen.  

 

 

Edited by TunaFresh
Posted
17 hours ago, swathdiver said:

image.thumb.png.aa8ba231e420261d140d4bf82a5cfeb4.png

This is dated July 2017 and does not appear to have changed as I download a new SDS after every purchased and they've all been the same.

 

I responded to this yesterday and it took it. Today I looked and it was gone. I found a newer, 29 August 2022 MSDS also Phillips. Not looking it up twice.

 

It would seem there is indeed a new guy making their oil now. Petro Canada makes in for that market.  😉 

 

The 2022 MSDS in section 16 showed the reason for update to be an update in chemistry. One of three reasons given. This MSDS covered the Gen3 oils. I also noted that the CAS numbers for Mobil 1 version and the Phillips version are identical. Shelf oils are truly a commodity product with little variation. A drum I've beat for some time. The very license requirements themselves demand a very narrow allowable base oil and additive package. 

 

Arguing whose licensed product is better is like arguing which match of the same book is better. 

Posted (edited)

Most approved lubricants meeting the same specifications will perform similarly.  However, there is variation though - some exceed the Sequence IIIH by 10x, some by 20x, some use better AOs, some use AN's, some use esters, some use Ti, boron in different amounts etc.  Mobil 1 is not the same as PUP or Valvoline EP.  The top tier within a line will vary comparatively speaking.

 

Once you're out of the approved world, it becomes a matter of trust.  

 

image.thumb.png.36375339f4310f60a25383c5fe0f7ade.png

Edited by TunaFresh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,725
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Griffin Donovan
    Newest Member
    Griffin Donovan
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 675 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hasn't come up in the 3 gm forums I follow. And only gm knows the frequency of failure of that part. LMG, you want a recall so it's replaced for free...
    • You need a better code reader/scanner.  You are missing codes.  Did the dealer give you a copy of the SAVI scan from that visit?     If the fluid hasn't been changed, change it.  Shudder will likely go away.  
    • TLDR to my other post...   Hard. Pass.  Too many what ifs.     Are you set on a 3.0 Duramax?  Have you considered anything not GM just in case?  If you don't have to have a pickup, lots of other options for $27,000 out there.   
    • I see some red flags.   - No mention in the Carfax if the oil pump belt was changed.  LM2s had a 150,000mi service interval, and its got 164,245mi on it.  So right out the gate it needs about $3000-3500 for that to be done before driving it another 150,000mi.  Belt is at the rear of the engine.     - If something happens to the transmission valve body, the special coverage is expired by mileage.  That will likely be an out of pocket expense, with zero or near zero GM participation if something happened even though its in by time.   - 2020 LM2s seem to need timing chains after 80,000mi at some point.  They fixed this end of 2020/starting 2021 model year engines.  They will usually set a P0016 I think?  There is another $8000-10,000 if it needs a chain.  The main chain is at the back, secondary at the front so the pump belt would be done at the same time if it needed chains.     - Long oil change intervals.  7,000-8,000mi on average, probably close to 0% or perhaps to or beyond 0% on the OLM.  Lots of them not at the dealer which makes me wonder how much of the oil ran through that truck was the proper Dexos D rated 0w20 oil and not just gas engine 0w20, which is not the same at all.     - Long fuel filter changes, again likely taking the fuel filter life to 0% or more.  First one went 28,603, second was done 43,094 miles later at 71,697, from there another 46,452mi to 118,149mi, and then the most recent one 37,026mi later at 155,175mi.  So counting its original fuel filter, its had only 4 fuel filters on it.  No bueno IMO.         Good news?    - It has had only two warranty trips to the dealer.  The first free service (end of December 2020 on the Carfax), and the transmission reprogram recall (end of August 2025 on the Carfax).     - Truck did a LOT of moving, so that might explain the lack of emissions related repairs like bad NOX sensors, bad exhaust temp sensors, bad glow plugs, etc.         The "emissions system checked" could just be how something was flagged for Carfax.  GM dealers have to do SAVI reports for warranty repair orders so they scan the truck.  So its possible that is there for that?  
    • Thank you, @Z45!   NOTE - No all repair shop/Dealers reports to Carfax   That is my main concern.  The CARFAX looks way too clean for a 6 year old anything with 164,245 miles.  Even something known for reliability (like many Toyotas) typically has a lot more replaced, like a Nav screen, interior trim, shock/strut, or brake pads.  And surely the last set of tires (installed at ~58k miles) would be bald unless those were all highway miles.   I'm tempted to pay a local dealer to look up the VIN, but am not sure if that will be worthwhile.  Last time I did this, it was 100% useless, and I felt scammed - they noted the bumper was replaced years ago and that's it.  A 5-year old could spot the accident damage, even though nothing was on the CARFAX.   After giving the dealer a call, the truck may have a hard shift, but they have to verify with their mechanic if that's even a concern.  And I've test driven about a dozen of these now, many near Chicago, and half the trucks shift hard/odd at all throttle positions.  The ones with aftermarket lifts/larger tires shift terrible, and 3 stock trucks shifted so violently I thought the transmission valve body was going out.   At this point I'm conflicted, as I need a vehicle, and am coming up short locally.  Northern trucks in this price range tend to have either multiple owners, a lot of mods (lifts/oversized tires without re-gearing), and are generally in rougher shape.   If this truck showed up in your neighborhood for $27k and you had to purchase it sight-unseen, with the possibility of needing a 10L80 rebuild, torque converter, or rear end - would you do it?  I'm convinced most of the 10L80 trucks I test drove are broken, they can't all shift so bad, with massive flares/slipping/lurching and mis-matched downshifts like a teen driver learning stick.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...