Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, asilverblazer said:

Since when can GM not build a small block V8?

 

1. Failing lifters

2. Lifter bores

3. Misaligned main bores

 

All within the last 4 years.

 

If there was 1 thing in the history of GM that they could do right it was a small block V8.

Read the fine print in the post bankruptcy warranty they can weasel out of about anything.  I've had very little issues with the L3B turbo at 61000 miles.  Uses oil a bit over 5000-6000 but not over a qt depending on chemistry.  Had a queertron vac system solenoid emissons trip on severely washboarded road and after running off road ALOT, inspected system, connections, operation,  reset and gone.

 

Run E15  86-87 octane  all the time from Maverik in this higher altitude market. 

 

From last few years of  6.2L V8 oil analysis we SEEM to see lower wear at valvetrain with E85 trucks. There's something going on with crappy or defective metallurgy or coatings and gasoline vs ethanol fuels. Cleaning, cooler burning, I am not sure. 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Out on vacation, towing my rv. "Oil Temp Hot Idle Engine" light comes on. Stuck out in the middle of Oklahoma from just south of Austin, Tx. OnStar states truck can be towed not the rv. Long story short, I pay towing myself to a dealership with a KOA campground in the vicinity. Service department opens the next morning, I can't get any help to continue with my vacation until the truck is diagnosed. Service department tells me truck probably won't be seen until the middle of the next week. There goes the vacation trip to Branson, MO. Fast forward a week, I get told truck was just diagnosed and it is definitely the engine. What do I do now? I'm already back in Tx and purchased a truck in Ok to not leave my rv there. 

Posted
On 8/1/2024 at 12:04 PM, frankerod said:

Out on vacation, towing my rv. "Oil Temp Hot Idle Engine" light comes on. Stuck out in the middle of Oklahoma from just south of Austin, Tx. OnStar states truck can be towed not the rv. Long story short, I pay towing myself to a dealership with a KOA campground in the vicinity. Service department opens the next morning, I can't get any help to continue with my vacation until the truck is diagnosed. Service department tells me truck probably won't be seen until the middle of the next week. There goes the vacation trip to Branson, MO. Fast forward a week, I get told truck was just diagnosed and it is definitely the engine. What do I do now? I'm already back in Tx and purchased a truck in Ok to not leave my rv there. 

What kind of horsesh*t dealer would leave you stranded on the road during your vacation? I cant believe they wouldn't at least look at it.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I suspect it is an issue maybe with user error also, especially if the person is on the third engine. Or maybe, it could be a lemon.

The problem is...the break instructions are strict. Mess with that..you will pay the price. 

One more thing...use premium fuel ONLY.....This is VERY IMPORTANT. 

And, examine the oil filter for issues after 500 miles....and proceed afterwards to remove the particles gradually.

 

The new Tundra is no better...if anything the entire setup is more complex. Replacing 100k engines does not mean anything when they will likely be on backorder ......and if they cost 20k+ out of warranty.

 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

This happened in the middle of the night a few days ago to me.  Driving in the middle of nowhere 65mph while passing a semi my 2023 seirra Denali ultimate engine and lights just turned off suddenly and switched into neutral. Thankfully was able to coast to a driveway.  The electronics all worked but when I pushed the start button the truck never turned over.   Had it towed to a GM dealership (shout out to OnStar).  They were able to look at it the next morning and it needs a whole new engine, said the gears were grinding up inside and they had, had a few with the same problems recently

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

2022 Chevy Silverado 6.2 l V8 crew cab. Since having vehicle 2 major break downs. At around 20000 Mile the transmission valve body failed causing me to replace the entire transmission. Less then 6 month later. Just last week 11/30/2024. I was driving to get a key fab battery and while on the interstate the RPMs started to fluctuate followed by the transmission slipping the complete shut down of power loud noises from engine the no power at all. At first thought maybe bad altenater and now bad battery. Towed to the nearest dealership. They found battery was dead, 400 Amp fuse blown and started was fried. All got replaced. Engine started now loud banging and rattling in the engine then again freeze up. Now I'm being told the engine is blown. All maintenaces were up to date, fluids good, no pre-warning of an issue just a sudden mass incident. This would be at 34,500 miles. This is now my second silverado to have major incident in 4 years. Prior to this was a 2019 silverado RST 5.3L. Emissions system fried under 8000 miles and high pressure oil line blew at 30000 miles. GM needs to figure this junk out. May not go back to Chevy again. Very poor quality in my eyes and experiences.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Add me to the list...33K miles on 6.2L Denali SUV with rod knock and the Service Writer says 6.2's are on National Backorder....

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

My daughter with my husband drove to the east side of Michigan to purchase a 2023 GM Yukon AT4 1/25/2025. That is what she wanted. The dealer had 2 on the lot. She went for the cheaper one with more miles and less add ons but the other 2023 had less miles, approx. 12,500 mile with more options and a 6.2L. She bought the one with less miles and more options. She was driving it home and the engine light came on .  Thought it was a fluke, stopped at a Meijers and let it set. Turned it back on  and the engine line came on again. She thought, how can this be happening? Made it back home on to the West side of the state. Puddle of oil under the truck. My husband plugged a device into the "brain" and it said the #8 cylinder was not working. The Dealer was amazing, came and picked the Yukon up. The next day dropped off the Yukon with the 5.3 that she originally wanted. There is something wrong with the 6.2L Motors.  The only reason she was purchasing this vehicle was because I was in an accident with my Escalade and it was totaled. I walked away, the other driver did not. My daughter was looking at Toyota's. Bigger is always better to protect your family in an acident. My accident changed her mind to purchase a Yukon but she had a bad experience with her first purchace. 

Edited by Kris1
Posted

Add another 6.2 to the list.  I have a 2022 refresh Sierra Denali with the 6.2 that was built at the Mexico plant and delivered in March 2022.  Just under 35,000 when the engine failed on Monday.  What sucks is this is the very first vehicle that I've ordered and purchased new.  Previously I always let someone else take the depreciation and bought used but with the refresh and used car prices where they were 3 years ago, I pulled the trigger on the new one with the exact options I wanted.  Up until this point, I've loved the truck and only real issue I had was tracking down a rattle in a door panel that ended in a door panel replacement.  Mechanically it had been great. 

 

I had very little warning on mine.  Started in the morning on the way to work with a little flutter around 15000-2000 rpms / right before it would shift.  I called the dealer and said that I'd swing by the next day to have them listen to it.  Later that afternoon, it turned into a worse rattle sound / more of a knock and then cut out as I was driving down the road (like it sounds like happened to almost everyone else) and wouldn't start.  I had my son in the back and was stopped in the middle of the road since the road had no shoulder so far from ideal there!  Towed to my GMC dealer (which have been great to work) and don't have an initial cause of the failure but because it won't start and they found metal in the oil... new engine on order with GM.  Like many others have said, sounds like it's on backorder.  

 

1. What has been the ballpark on the total time from order to being replaced?

2. And for those that are on engine 3, was the 2nd one a new engine from GM or a refurbished / rebuilt one?  I want to do everything I can no to advocate for myself to make sure the 2nd one doesn't have the same issue as this is the first time I've ever had an engine replacement on a vehicle.  

 

I had planned on getting the extended warranty to cover the truck for the next 3-4 years but not I'm wondering if I should look into trading it in on a 3.0 Duramax instead of the 6.2... I've had GM vehicles for 20+ years with and have never had anything close to this issue but unfortunately it sounds like every brand has some sort of issue these days.  

  • Sad 1
Posted

I got my mind blown today visiting my mother. My nephew heard ticking in his engine. He took it to the dealership and they found metal in the oil. An almost 3 year old GM 3/4 ton with 125K miles on it. I don’t think the problem is going to limited to the 6.2. I believe the price was 14K. The 10 speed transmission is about the same price at the dealership. 

  • Sad 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Gottsmoney said:

Add another 6.2 to the list.  I have a 2022 refresh Sierra Denali with the 6.2 that was built at the Mexico plant and delivered in March 2022.  Just under 35,000 when the engine failed on Monday.  What sucks is this is the very first vehicle that I've ordered and purchased new.  Previously I always let someone else take the depreciation and bought used but with the refresh and used car prices where they were 3 years ago, I pulled the trigger on the new one with the exact options I wanted.  Up until this point, I've loved the truck and only real issue I had was tracking down a rattle in a door panel that ended in a door panel replacement.  Mechanically it had been great. 

 

I had very little warning on mine.  Started in the morning on the way to work with a little flutter around 15000-2000 rpms / right before it would shift.  I called the dealer and said that I'd swing by the next day to have them listen to it.  Later that afternoon, it turned into a worse rattle sound / more of a knock and then cut out as I was driving down the road (like it sounds like happened to almost everyone else) and wouldn't start.  I had my son in the back and was stopped in the middle of the road since the road had no shoulder so far from ideal there!  Towed to my GMC dealer (which have been great to work) and don't have an initial cause of the failure but because it won't start and they found metal in the oil... new engine on order with GM.  Like many others have said, sounds like it's on backorder.  

 

1. What has been the ballpark on the total time from order to being replaced?

2. And for those that are on engine 3, was the 2nd one a new engine from GM or a refurbished / rebuilt one?  I want to do everything I can no to advocate for myself to make sure the 2nd one doesn't have the same issue as this is the first time I've ever had an engine replacement on a vehicle.  

 

I had planned on getting the extended warranty to cover the truck for the next 3-4 years but not I'm wondering if I should look into trading it in on a 3.0 Duramax instead of the 6.2... I've had GM vehicles for 20+ years with and have never had anything close to this issue but unfortunately it sounds like every brand has some sort of issue these days.  

Do yourself a favor and IMMEDIATELY file a claim with GM, I did and they'll provide you with a case number and verify paying for a rental car if the dealer doesn't offer a loaner!

 

Today makes 30 days of waiting for our new motor with no ETA!  Monday I will notify GM that the AZ Lemon law applies to our vehicle because it has been sitting at the Dealer for 30 days since the repair was authorized and will formally request a vehicle buy-back!

Posted
55 minutes ago, Bzzy56 said:

Do yourself a favor and IMMEDIATELY file a claim with GM, I did and they'll provide you with a case number and verify paying for a rental car if the dealer doesn't offer a loaner!

 

Today makes 30 days of waiting for our new motor with no ETA!  Monday I will notify GM that the AZ Lemon law applies to our vehicle because it has been sitting at the Dealer for 30 days since the repair was authorized and will formally request a vehicle buy-back!

Rental is already being paid for by GM, through Hertz. 
 

Is there a link that you can share for filing the case? 

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Couple plausibilities.   - Bent pushrod   - Bad injector   - Roller lifter failed and has been eating the cam lobe(s).     - Broken valve spring   All are options.  Most common that I can recall would be the valve spring (hard to see the break on it as well), the cam/lifter and the injector.  
    • I only have a few of the ACDelco blue remaining. One or two of the (old, old) ACDelco Professional boxes, and a couple of the newer style GM boxes with the simulcast in Chinese along with English. FWIW they've all been pretty good, regardless of where they are made, and in 20 years I've never had a problem with an e-core filter.   Now I have a couple of the "A" series in my home inventory. They come in a plain white box with the GM hologram sticker and model information. Have not installed one yet, want to use up my oldest inventory first.
    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...