Jump to content

2016 Silverado LT - is my transmission going? Maybe my TC?

InsuredByBeretta

By InsuredByBeretta
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

InsuredByBeretta Enthusiast

InsuredByBeretta

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

 

This morning on my way to work I noticed my truck was shuddering while shifting. It only seemed to happen on the hilly backroads, once I made it to the highway I didn’t experience it much. On the way home it wasn’t as bad, but I still felt it. I kept hearing a quick squeal whenever it shifted. About a mile away from home I threw it into manual and went through each gear..I never used manual before, so I’m not sure if it’s normal to feel a little bump when shifting, but that was all I felt going from 1-5. Once I got into 6th, I felt the shuddering again. 
 

I’m at just around 94,000.. never had any issues prior to this. Never did anything with the fluid.. didn’t seem dirty, just a light pink color.

 

 Any help to let me know how screwed I am would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted

Does the 'squeal' match up -exactly- with the truck coming out of 4CYL mode and into 8CYL mode? If you can get the squeal to happen by running the truck along a slight uphill grade, letting it drop to 4CYL, then getting on the gas hard enough to get it to switch back to 8CYL mode quickly, that isn't your tranny...

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

If you are lucky its just the converter.  Its possible its more than that.  Could be the converter, the pump could be going and the 4-5-6 clutch pack is going which all 3 are quite common.

retired-caracer New Member

retired-caracer

Posted
Posted

Well my 2018 GMC Sierra(120,000 miles) torque converter just started shuddering on the way home Sunday to Texas from Arkansas. I was in the hills of eastern OK. I slowed down and it seemed to go away. But then when I got to more level ground and had the cruise set at 60mph, all of a sudden my rpm raced to 6000 and I kicked it off. I had been monitoring the transmission fluid temp reading since the shuddering started and now it was up 20 deg from 185 to 205 and climbing. The shuddering was back constantly. I pulled off the highway into a nice gas station/restaurant and called a friend back home that works on transmissions. His immediate conclusion was the torque converter failure(common he said). He said the average failures he sees are around 120,000 miles. I was still 200 miles from home. Got a hotel room and started asking around with the locals for a good transmission shop. I immediately got several good references to a shop. Next morning I was sitting at the shop waiting on the owner. He told me "you are the 3rd one of this transmission this week" (small town)!! He quoted me $3000 for stock rebuild with 1yr warranty or $4000 with a stage 1 shift kit and aftermarket billet convertor and 3 yr warranty. I need to keep the truck so I opted for the $4000 rebuild. 

I think I may have just purchased my last GM product. A/C failure and radiator louver shroud failure and now tranny. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • UrbanRage
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By UrbanRage · Posted

      I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...