Jump to content

Kicker Hideaway Sub

lennybg

By lennybg
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

lennybg Enthusiast

lennybg

Posted
Posted

Has anyone used the Kicker Hideaway powered sub? Im talking about the 8" power sub that will fit behind the seat(crewcab) NOT the GM/Kicker sub that mounts under the seat....

I am not looking for anything that is going to shake the windows anymore, i just want something that will make the stock radio(non bose) sound better.

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

I don't have any experience with either subs you mention. I do have a lot of experience with audio in general. Adding any sub will improve sound because it fills in the lower frequencies that are missing. 

I would also upgrade the stock speakers.

typhoon186 Enthusiast

typhoon186

Posted
Posted (edited)

I will be installing the Kicker 46HS10 powered subwoofer in my 23 Denali in a few days.

 

Anyone know the easiest way and location to connect the speaker level wires?  I heard I need to connect to front speaker wires and not the rear.  I plan to locate the sub under the rear seat.  also what and where is the easiest way/location to connect the auto power on?  Should I pull the rear seat and make connections to the factory amp outputs there?

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646HS10/Kicker-46HS10.html?tp=114

 

Edited by typhoon186
Mille170 Enthusiast

Mille170

Posted
Posted

I had the Kicker hideaway in my 2016 truck, its a nice unit that provides enough low end to the stock system.  I don't know how it will sound with the newer generation stock stereos but it was a nice addition to the previous generation.  

typhoon186 Enthusiast

typhoon186

Posted
Posted

I got my Kicker hideaway 46SH10 installed.  Turned out nice.  Found it to fit PERFECTLY within the storage area under the rear seat with just a little trimming of the storage area wall.  It's exactly what I was looking for.  Small size with decent sound and easy installation at a good price.  It's not going to pound your chest when the base hits but it does a good job of filling in the low end on the new refreshed Bose system.  I mounted the base boost control under the dash just in front of the driver's knee (just above the .45) both for easy access.

 

IMG_9739.jpg

IMG_9750.jpg

IMG_9744.jpg

  • Like 2
Mille170 Enthusiast

Mille170

Posted
Posted

Looks good, I am thinking of going this route for the new truck so will definitely use these pics for reference in the future. 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
acmech87 Enthusiast

acmech87

Posted
Posted
On 11/22/2023 at 7:22 PM, typhoon186 said:

Note- 

be sure to connect the sub to the front door speaker wires.   Not the rear.  

Can you tell me how you wired it all up? I have the same wiring questions as you.

typhoon186 Enthusiast

typhoon186

Posted
Posted

removed the rear upper seat to access the factory amplifier.  Then just tap into the left front and right front speaker wires.  Sorry I can't remember the colors.

Phil750 New Member

Phil750

Posted
Posted

I put a Kicker 46HS10 Hideaway under my rear seat and I love it.  Really fills in the bass that was missing from the factory Bose system without rattling the windows....lol

  • 3 months later...
2021DENALI1500 Enthusiast

2021DENALI1500

Posted
Posted
On 11/10/2023 at 6:58 PM, typhoon186 said:

I got my Kicker hideaway 46SH10 installed.  Turned out nice.  Found it to fit PERFECTLY within the storage area under the rear seat with just a little trimming of the storage area wall.  It's exactly what I was looking for.  Small size with decent sound and easy installation at a good price.  It's not going to pound your chest when the base hits but it does a good job of filling in the low end on the new refreshed Bose system.  I mounted the base boost control under the dash just in front of the driver's knee (just above the .45) both for easy access.

 

IMG_9739.jpg

IMG_9750.jpg

IMG_9744.jpg

 

typhoon186 Enthusiast

typhoon186

Posted
Posted

No.  It's the factory bracket for the jack handle.  Just modified it to go over the sub.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coastie05
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Jsdirt
      07 yukon xl 6.2 stalls at hot idle and wont restart

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • Jsdirt
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • davester
      OBD not ready?

      By davester · Posted

      Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • RW2018GMC
      Me too……..

      By RW2018GMC · Posted

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...