Time for reliabiality upgrade on my 18 5.3, going to delete dod, and replace converter. Whats the easiest way?

[Krom]

90k miles on my 18 1500 5.3/6 speed.  I know too may people with lifter problems to just keep driving it, and I'm terrified that the converter is going to wipe out the trans, even though I've changed fluid every 30k miles, and changed the thermostat.  I tow heavy a hand full of times a year (boat, skid steer, and mini ex).

 

Planning to do the work myself, and am comfortable doing it in my garage (without a lift).

 

Is there a preferred way to do both at the same time? It seems to me that pulling the engine would make sense.  I can swap the cam and lifters on a stand, and leave the trans/transfercase/driveline in the truck. 

 

Is there something I don't see making this a bad idea?

 

Is there a better way?

 

TIA

Edited December 9, 2023 by Krom

[KARNUT]

58 minutes ago, Krom said:

90k miles on my 18 1500 5.3/6 speed.  I know too may people with lifter problems to just keep driving it, and I'm terrified that the converter is going to wipe out the trans, even though I've changed fluid every 30k miles, and changed the thermostat.  I tow heavy a hand full of times a year (boat, skid steer, and mini ex).

 

Planning to do the work myself, and am comfortable doing it in my garage (without a lift).

 

Is there a preferred way to do both at the same time? It seems to me that pulling the engine would make sense.  I can swap the cam and lifters on a stand, and leave the trans/transfercase/driveline in the truck. 

 

Is there something I don't see making this a bad idea?

 

Is there a better way?

 

TIA

I was faced with the same dilemma with a different brand. You probably have passed the defective part test. If it was me. I would keep the oil changed and drive it. 

[rav3]

Can't give much information about this, as I've never done either one myself. I wish there was an easy way to replace the TC. You either need to go from the back (pulling transmission & transfer case or from front by pulling the engine). I'm curious, did you ever do the AFM/DOD dis-engagement with an OBD2 device like "Ranger"? If you have, like I did, I agree with KARNUT above, to skip the DOD delete & TC replacement, since you did do the transmission thermostat delete & changed ATF every 30k. It's my belief the TC goes due to the high ATF temperatures. That's just my opinion. There's lots of videos on YouTube on both of these procedures. What new TC would you put in?

[KARNUT]

7 minutes ago, rav3 said:

Can't give much information about this, as I've never done either one myself. I wish there was an easy way to replace the TC. You either need to go from the back (pulling transmission & transfer case or from front by pulling the engine). I'm curious, did you ever do the AFM/DOD dis-engagement with an OBD2 device like "Ranger"? If you have, like I did, I agree with KARNUT above, to skip the DOD delete & TC replacement, since you did do the transmission thermostat delete & changed ATF every 30k. It's my belief the TC goes due to the high ATF temperatures. That's just my opinion. There's lots of videos on YouTube on both of these procedures. What new TC would you put in?

The vehicle I was referring to was my Odyssey. My father in law had the exact same model since new. He started burning oil at 100k miles and traded it in. He  followed the oil monitor. I do half or less. At 142k it doesn’t burn a drop. The transmission is fluid sensitive. Its first service is way too long. During slow speed up shift it shuttered. A complete fluid change fixed the problem. I’ll do it again in April one year later. Toyota and Volkswagen have similar maintenance schedules. It would be reasonable to trust their recommendations. Don’t. Always follow the extreme service schedule. I bulked when the Hyundai dealership recommended the extreme schedule with my wife’s Genesis since new. With their warranty I reluctantly did. It’s just under 4K miles for service. Twelve years and 132K miles the oil is never dirty. You have to use a white background to even see it. It’s not an DI engine so that helps. 

[CamGTP]

Pull the engine and do it that way, thats the easiest way if you ask me.

[Krom]

Any one have a write up on pulling the engine?  surprisingly I haven't found much  on you tube

[rlcole321]

I have a 18 'Rado WT (Short Bed) L83, I just did the DOD delete, BTR Stage II cam w/lifters (will need new pushrods, will be a different length needed), new valve springs, Long tube headers, port polished heads. Watch Youtube videos for good info to watch out for, like removing oil pump, they make alignment tools to help with that, R+R motor is the best since the oil pan has to come off. If you remove the solenoids for the VLOM you'll need a plug to plug up the oil hole (see Youtube for VLOM oil plug). I also used studs for the heads instead of bolts. there are some fasteners you cannot reuse, be sure to look into that. you will have to install a VVT limiter and hope you have a HPTuner system, you will need it or someone who as one. But it is not that hard if you can wrench! good luck!

[TigerTruck]

I plan on doing the DOD delete in the future with my '15 Silverado 6.2. I just replaced some bad lifters on passenger side. Since you want to do the delete, the easiest would be to remove the heads, ac compressor, vacuum pump while in the truck since they need to come off anyway. Once that is done, removing the engine is a lot easier. All that is left is Starter, cooler lines, bellhousing bolts, motor mount bolts, torque converter bolts, and some wires. Support the tranny and pull it out. With the engine out, you can do the torque converter and remove the engine oil pan to help deal with the oil pump. I may pull my engine if I have issues with the timing chain as shown in DOD videos.

[Shane T.]

On 12/20/2023 at 12:50 AM, rlcole321 said:

I have a 18 'Rado WT (Short Bed) L83, I just did the DOD delete, BTR Stage II cam w/lifters (will need new pushrods, will be a different length needed), new valve springs, Long tube headers, port polished heads. Watch Youtube videos for good info to watch out for, like removing oil pump, they make alignment tools to help with that, R+R motor is the best since the oil pan has to come off. If you remove the solenoids for the VLOM you'll need a plug to plug up the oil hole (see Youtube for VLOM oil plug). I also used studs for the heads instead of bolts. there are some fasteners you cannot reuse, be sure to look into that. you will have to install a VVT limiter and hope you have a HPTuner system, you will need it or someone who as one. But it is not that hard if you can wrench! good luck!

Sounds like what I want/need to do in the near future. What kind of difference di it make? How does it affect daily drivability? MPG change much??

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Shane T.