Jump to content

New battery questions

Ronjon

By Ronjon
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ronjon Enthusiast

Ronjon

Posted
Posted

When my battery goes out later this year I want to upgrade to a lithium iron phosphate battery. Does anyone have experience with them or reason not to?

 

2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LM2 Z71

Group 49/ H 8 battery size

Screenshot_20240216_115033_Photos.jpg

Screenshot_20240216_115050_Photos.jpg

ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted

My general thoughts: 

 

Why -would- you choose a LFP battery over AGM? AGM is better suited for cold weather (especially freezing and below) use and will easily handle the high CCA output your truck needs for Stop/Start functionality. AGM is costly enough, but I have gotten 5 years out of them fairly easily. I have one in my car and keep it on a maintainer when it's parked in the garage (which is a lot). Current battery is going on three years with zero issues.

 

Personally, I would be suspicious of the potential issues that could arise by changing out the main electrical supply in the truck for all of the electronics and monitoring systems as well as being 100% compatible with the charging system in the truck.

 

LFP batteries are generally marketed to those looking to use them in solar setups, EV's, RV's, and boats for specific situational use.

  • Like 2
Ronjon Enthusiast

Ronjon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did not know abouth the cold weather difference! That's good to know, yeah I'll stick with an AGM then. Is there really much of a difference between brands of similar CCA specs? The current one is the one that came with the truck in Feb of 2020.

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

I buy batteries at NAPA. Johnson Controls or East Penn Man. is the brand I like. I also go by weight. 

  • Like 2
ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Ronjon said:

I did not know abouth the cold weather difference! That's good to know, yeah I'll stick with an AGM then. Is there really much of a difference between brands of similar CCA specs? The current one is the one that came with the truck in Feb of 2020.

 

Pretty sure, at least in the current form, LFP batteries can't actually be used for starting and operating motor vehicles (cars, trucks, RV's, motorcycles, etc.) anyhow as they don't provide the heavy amperage required for cranking over a motor.

 

As far as brands, you can pretty much go with what you're comfortable with, really. Just be sure you get AGM and at -least- the CCA rating of the battery that's in there. You'll likely find that most of the brands that are sized correctly for your truck will be similar in price, so you could use cost as deciding factor. Batteries are only made by a few manufacturers and are all pretty on par with each other.

 

Some folks have used Costco in the past because they sold Interstate and offered a great warranty / return., but that has changed and the Interstate warranty is what presides now (and there's not really a cost savings going through Costco).

  • Like 1
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Since about 2008 model year, the computer monitors and manages the charging system, based on MANY items that it measures.

It is expecting the battery to match the characteristics of the battery it was shipped with. 

As well as adjusting the % of maximum charge rate it can set multiple levels of idle increase and of 'load shedding'. 

 

There are about five and half 8.5x11 pages in the upfitters manuals that describe this. 

 

They used both flooded and AGM on the 2020's -- depending on engine and features installed.

 

image.thumb.png.64c8d6168c2d4331df3cc6af74ba903a.png

image.thumb.png.4065b9555dcd3eb5aae1bea81a2b4443.png

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by redwngr
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PunchT37
      OCI, not when but why?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      My brother has a 2007 Avalanche with afm 5.3. It`s got 176,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Never been apart. Co worker has a 2010 Tahoe with afm 5.3. 230,000 miles. Never been apart. Runs like a clock. So, even though cyl deac is a weak spot, they can go the distance.   BUT, these engines had the oil changed regularly, AND had 5w30 as spec. I wonder if they would have lasted this far on 0w20? I`ll bet not.
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • davester
      Tranmission stays in Low

      By davester · Posted

      get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • asilverblazer
      OCI, not when but why?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • asilverblazer
      Stabilitrak conversion to Z71

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...