Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

hey all, I know I've seen different post about wheel/tire combos throughout the forum, but was wondering if I could possibly get some pics of what larger than stock tires you all have went with on oem 20" wheels.  Trying to decide what size I want to go with.  Thanks in advance for any replies.

Posted

There's only a few on YouTube that show bigger tires on factory rims. Most have lift kits or leveling kits installed and bigger rims. From what I've found a 35x12.5x20 will fit on factory rims and no lift or level. Thats what I'm going with next. 

Posted

that is my number 1 size pick so far Mike.  Also considering 295/65/20 as well, but would prefer the the slightly wider 35.  Was hoping to see some pics of the 35x12.5's installed.

Posted
55 minutes ago, Diver6 said:

There's only a few on YouTube that show bigger tires on factory rims. Most have lift kits or leveling kits installed and bigger rims. From what I've found a 35x12.5x20 will fit on factory rims and no lift or level. Thats what I'm going with next. 

Does that size fit on GMC Sierra Denali 2017?

Posted

Not sure, it was a 2022 truck I seen it on but can't imagine it's any different. I also had a 2019 and there was not much difference. I think the big key is factory rims as apposed to aftermarket wide rims. 

Posted

should fit the previous body style as well.  They would have had the same size tire with stock 20's too. 

 

Nobody is going to chime in with some pics of their truck?  I know there are some members with larger tires on their stock rims around here.

Posted

Sorry for being late to the party...

 

I installed 295/65/20 Yokohama Geolander AT-XD (G017) tires on my 2022 Silverado 2500 Custom. Truck is at stock height front and rear. NO cranking of torsion bars or anything.

 

They fit great, no rubbing! Looking at the Geolander AT-XD tires specifically.... 295/65/20's are 35.1" in diameter with a tread width of 9.7". The 35x12.5/20 are 34.5" with a tread width of 10.3". For reference, BFG KO2's in 295/65/20 are 35.1" diameter with a tread width of 9.8". The 35x12.5/20 are 34.5" in diameter with a tread with of 11.1"

 

Another thing to look at is load ratings. For reference, on the Yokohamas, the 295 had a max load of 4,080lbs @ 80psi. The 35x12.5 had a max load of  3,195lbs @ 65psi. Just more things to consider, especially if towing.

 

I have always been very particular in the tire I chose for all my vehicles. In the 35x's there are tons of options. The 295's the selection is significantly less. I have run BFG KO2, Goodyear Duratrac, Falken Wildpeaks AT3, Firestone Destination AT. They are all great tires for certain purposes. After a ton of research on forums and YouTube (for which there was very little), I went with the Yokohamas AT-XD. I went slightly taller and narrower with the 295's. I wanted to fill the wheel well as tight as I could without rubbing. The 295's also gave a little more room on the UCA in the event I upgrade UCAs in the future. And I got the highest load rating.

 

Hope this helps.IMG_7181a.thumb.jpg.aae96fd93d8edc5fe170abff055ffd56.jpgIMG_7182a.thumb.jpg.a81d44aea476a2762048a37f09f34e40.jpgIMG_7183a.thumb.jpg.38d5ecd3d86d083882f256dc7f6588c2.jpgIMG_7185a.thumb.jpg.728439783deb60e104c05ff052a63832.jpgIMG_7188a.thumb.jpg.9360359c94365bc742a84fad2dafc73c.jpgIMG_7212a.thumb.jpg.a3877568d609541694fc8ba393df8505.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

thanks for the reply Matt, great info and same model/color as mine as well.  I hadn't consider Yokohama's yet.  Was looking at Nitto Ridge Grapplers and Toyo Open Country R/T and Cooper Discover AT2 XLT.

Edited by Sonders
added more details.
Posted
7 hours ago, Elite130 said:

Sorry for being late to the party...

 

I installed 295/65/20 Yokohama Geolander AT-XD (G017) tires on my 2022 Silverado 2500 Custom. Truck is at stock height front and rear. NO cranking of torsion bars or anything.

 

They fit great, no rubbing! Looking at the Geolander AT-XD tires specifically.... 295/65/20's are 35.1" in diameter with a tread width of 9.7". The 35x12.5/20 are 34.5" with a tread width of 10.3". For reference, BFG KO2's in 295/65/20 are 35.1" diameter with a tread width of 9.8". The 35x12.5/20 are 34.5" in diameter with a tread with of 11.1"

 

Another thing to look at is load ratings. For reference, on the Yokohamas, the 295 had a max load of 4,080lbs @ 80psi. The 35x12.5 had a max load of  3,195lbs @ 65psi. Just more things to consider, especially if towing.

 

I have always been very particular in the tire I chose for all my vehicles. In the 35x's there are tons of options. The 295's the selection is significantly less. I have run BFG KO2, Goodyear Duratrac, Falken Wildpeaks AT3, Firestone Destination AT. They are all great tires for certain purposes. After a ton of research on forums and YouTube (for which there was very little), I went with the Yokohamas AT-XD. I went slightly taller and narrower with the 295's. I wanted to fill the wheel well as tight as I could without rubbing. The 295's also gave a little more room on the UCA in the event I upgrade UCAs in the future. And I got the highest load rating.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Those look great.  How's the ride and road noise? Did MPG's take a big hit? 

Posted
12 hours ago, A Chap said:

 

Those look great.  How's the ride and road noise? Did MPG's take a big hit? 

 

There is a slight hum right now that comes from the tires. I only have about 200 miles on them, so they really aren't even broken in yet. I did read one review that the tires do hum initially, but it goes away. Time will tell.

 

As for the ride, they actually feel a bit softer than the stock tires. Understandable considering there is more sidewall and the tread is 20/32" thick. They are marginally less responsive, but again, I attribute that to the thick tread and the tread design.

 

I do not have enough miles on these tires to make a comment on the MPG. I can only assume with each tire weighing 15lbs more each, along with the taller tire and more aggressive tread (i.e. more rolling resistance), I will see a MPG hit. What it is, I don't know yet.

Posted
18 hours ago, Sonders said:

thanks for the reply Matt, great info and same model/color as mine as well.  I hadn't consider Yokohama's yet.  Was looking at Nitto Ridge Grapplers and Toyo Open Country R/T and Cooper Discover AT2 XLT.

Those are all good tires. Pick a tire that best suits your needs. When I was choosing a tire, my focus was mainly packed snow and slushy snow performance as I live in Denver, CO. But.... I also wanted sand and mud performance as we do a lot of lake camping and a good heavy duty tire that was designed for the heavier 3/4 and 1-ton pickups. I know, my list was quite extensive. Over the years and many tires, I found the more closed-block designs, specifically the KO2, there was no good passage for the slush to get out of the tread blocks. So I would be sliding around on top of the slush.  Wet performance was not the best either. They did do very well with deep and packed snow. I loved the Duratracs in slush and deep snow, but didn't do well in pretty much every other category. The Falken Wildpeak AT3's are amazing tires. They did better than the KO2s in every category. The AT4s are just hitting the market now and the reviews are saying they are even better than the AT3's. I looked at all of the new RT tires, but I was concerned about the packed snow and slush performance due to the tread design. Especially when they wear down. The Yokohamas are new and checked every box I was looking for, at least on paper. 

 

So all of that being said, do your research. Each tire is designed a certain way to achieve a certain performance. Choose the tire that fits your needs the best. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Have you seen or hear of the BFG HD-Terrain? Curious is anyone has tried those. Also seeing that the KO2's have now been replaced with the KO3's

Posted
29 minutes ago, Truston Gunter said:

Have you seen or hear of the BFG HD-Terrain? Curious is anyone has tried those. Also seeing that the KO2's have now been replaced with the KO3's

I was really leaning towards the BFG HD-Terrains. I almost went with the BFGs. The reason why I went with the Yokohama AT-XD's was for their snow and packed snow performance, which is very important to me since I live in Denver and travel to the mountains with deep snow, packed snow and slush. The HD-Terrains didn't look like they would do as well in snow since there is not much siping along the tread face and the tread blocks are very large. There are only a small handful of reviews on those tires. And even less with actual ownership reviews. You can't go wrong with those IMHO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,911
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    jaszr2
    Newest Member
    jaszr2
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 528 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...