Jump to content

Lost camera guidelines front and rear

2022LiftedRST
 Share

Recommended Posts

2022LiftedRST Enthusiast

2022LiftedRST

Posted
Posted

Hello all, I am wondering if anyone here can help with a fix for my issue. I have spent some time googling over the last year or so as this has been an issue on and off, it seems this issue happens across any type of GM Vehicle.

 

my lines have gone which tell me where I’m going when I park. The screen displays the camera just fine, but there is a blue egg time in the top left corner and the button on the bottom right that toggles the lines view on and off is greyed out. 
 

this has been happening for more or less the whole time since I got this refreshed 2022 in 2022 however recently the lines went and never came back, usually it fixes itself.

 

took it to a dealer and they didn’t help, simple answer was to blame it on my lift kit. They ignored the fact that it has been working for 90% of the time, It would just glitch once in a while, not often… but this time it’s not fixed itself

 

I have a GM Case open too, but it’s just hard work… 

 

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

image0.jpeg

  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ember1205
ember1205

The dealership has claimed that there's an error that "can't be cleared" and that would mean it will never work. So, all you need now is for it to work... Once... When you can get video of it working

Posted Images

ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted

With the GM case, AND the dealership, be respectful and keep asking for 'help'. If they want to push back on the lift kit, and they likely will, ask if they can share any details as to how/why it would interfere. Explain that you want to know the details so you can discuss with the kit manufacturer to get their help as well.

 

Dealerships like to throw blame around but don't like to have to provide the details to justify their statements. The entire reason they don't want to cover it under warranty is because they want to charge YOU for the work (GM doesn't want to pay if they don't have to, and the dealership makes more profit on non-warranty work).

 

Just don't argue with them or let things get emotional. Stick to facts, remain calm, and keep expressing things in terms of "I need your help here".

2022LiftedRST Enthusiast

2022LiftedRST

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you for the reply! Attached here is the summary from the dealer. Basically I read this as, because I had the park assist retro fitted (chip shortage when I ordered the truck) they then had to recalibrate everything, which is why the lines don’t work.

 

the point which is being ignored is 1) this lines issue first happened 2 years ago, the park assist was installed in  November 2023. The lines have continued to work 90% of the time until last week. This is why I think they are wrong, and it’s also noting to do with the lift.

 

they mention a hard error in the system preventing the lines from displaying, which ‘cannot’ be cleared…

 

doesn’t add up to me! I’m wondering if they could just refresh? Recalibrate? Reboot the modules or something … they seemed unwilling to try, and told me I was lucky the camera even works with the truck this high up…

 

 

IMG_7686.jpeg

IMG_7687.jpeg

ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted

Ugh... Messy.

 

- Do you have any work orders for the lines disappearing PRIOR to Park Assist being added?

- PRIOR to the lift being installed?

 

Anything you can provide that shows that the problem occurred before anyone touched anything would possibly help you here.

 

They told you there's an error but the work order shown implies it's a "setting." Terminology matters... settings have configurable options, errors indicate problems / failures. Which is it? 

 

It seems that the tech is acknowledging that installing the lift made no actual changes to the camera system. Once the Park Assist was installed, however, they had to re-calibrate the camera to account for the changed height of the truck. Why would raising the truck and adjusting the camera angle turn that feature off? And, can you PROVE that it worked after the Park Assist was installed at any point?

 

Dealership Service Writers are useless for discussing this stuff - they spew all kinds of bullshit that I swear they make up on the spot and clearly have absolutely no clue what they're talking about. The Service Manager is likely just as useless (the one at the dealership where I bought my truck tried arguing specific repair items with me claiming that GM was "never" going to address them yet I not only had them addressed, but had them addressed at -that- dealership).

 

Speaking to the Shop Foreman may get you some details, and the actual Tech as well. You could request through GM Customer Assistance to speak with either the Field Tech (or any field tech) or the District Manager that covers that dealership to better understand the details and the options. Anything that a Field Tech offers up is very likely backed by documented details that they could provide to you.

2022LiftedRST Enthusiast

2022LiftedRST

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Unfortunately I never had any previous work orders for this - it was never something that could be recreated! It would happen one day, then seconds later go back into reverse and it would be fine again for months.

 

all of the explanation about the park assist was kinda pointless because, it happened on and off before, and on and off after, just for now, it seems to be off and not back on!  
 

the fact it’s all over other forums makes me wonder what the issue really is! 
 

it even says on the attached Cadillac bulletin ‘may be caused by a software anomaly’

 

just needs a ctrl+alt+delete and a reboot!! 

IMG_7663.png

IMG_7665.png

IMG_7666.jpeg

IMG_7668.png

IMG_7667.png

ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted

The dealership has claimed that there's an error that "can't be cleared" and that would mean it will never work. So, all you need now is for it to work... Once... When you can get video of it working on your phone. Be sure to add commentary as to the time and date, and capture the mileage on your truck in the video. This would all potentially negate the "it will never work again" claim of the dealership.

 

As an aside... There's been a MASSIVE problem with GM's OTA updates for their trucks. I bought my truck in late October, there was an OTA update, and shortly after I started having weird error codes showing up and setting the Check Engine Light. The dealership dismissed it as "no code" (and they don't know how to troubleshoot without a code or a TSB that explicitly calls out the exact issue) and gave the truck back. On the way home, it "blew up" my dash with every error code known to mankind, reduced power, etc. They had to get TAC involved for very detailed troubleshooting (I took the truck back to them -immediately-) and determined that the Gateway Communication module had a corruption and needed to be re-flashed.

  • Thanks 1
  • 7 months later...
jsc406 Enthusiast

jsc406

Posted
Posted

@2022LiftedRST Did you get any resolution to this? The dealer installed my leveling kit today and I noticed the same thing - no guidelines, disabled button for them, and the hourglass. Going to call tomorrow and see if they messed with any calibration, I can’t imagine that it can detect that it’s sitting a few inches higher. It’s a pickup, loading the bed or towing could just as easily affect its angle!

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Or the setting got changed. 

The are several selections available.

One of the options that can be selected is 'no guidance lines' 

 

I don't know which one is the default.

 

Edited by redwngr
jsc406 Enthusiast

jsc406

Posted
Posted

This button on the far right that’s now disabled? Or is there some other system setting I haven’t found yet? 🤔

IMG_0875.jpeg

2022LiftedRST Enthusiast

2022LiftedRST

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hello!

 

I do indeed have an update!

 

a few weeks ago I had the front of the truck lowered back down a bit to stop a vibration I had, and the camera lines came back and have worked as normal for 95% of the time since

 

looks like the dealer was right! The truck was too high. I was about 12” lift on the front. I switched to adjustable struts and the shop I go to recons they lowered it back down 2-3 inches or so.

 

sometimes my lines disappear for a day or so, but I’m guessing that’s due to the fact I’m still around a 10” lift on 37s so that must be close to the limit for the camera knowing where it is. 
 

 

Edited by 2022LiftedRST
2022LiftedRST Enthusiast

2022LiftedRST

Posted
  • Author
Posted

For example I parked last night with my lines. Woke up this morning they had vanished for the first time in a while.. home again now and the lines are back

 

give your lines a few days to see what they want to do 🙂 

 

I got used to life with no lines, would rather have a bigger truck than the lines 😂

jsc406 Enthusiast

jsc406

Posted
Posted

I only went up ~3.5" (including tires) and kept a little rake, nowhere near 10" and 37s. I haven't unloaded the old tires from the bed yet, hopefully that makes it happy. 

 

1 hour ago, 2022LiftedRST said:

I got used to life with no lines, would rather have a bigger truck than the lines 😂

 

Lol same, I wouldn't want to go back, but damn...I really like that feature. Stupid computers. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Juan C Gabrie Enthusiast

Juan C Gabrie

Posted
Posted
On 11/21/2024 at 3:37 AM, 2022LiftedRST said:

Hello!

 

I do indeed have an update!

 

a few weeks ago I had the front of the truck lowered back down a bit to stop a vibration I had, and the camera lines came back and have worked as normal for 95% of the time since

 

looks like the dealer was right! The truck was too high. I was about 12” lift on the front. I switched to adjustable struts and the shop I go to recons they lowered it back down 2-3 inches or so.

 

sometimes my lines disappear for a day or so, but I’m guessing that’s due to the fact I’m still around a 10” lift on 37s so that must be close to the limit for the camera knowing where it is. 
 

 

Same is happening to me no guidelines since vehicle got lifted front 1.5inch and rear 1inch so my truck is almost leveled, i will try to replicate that solution by lowering air pressure in front tires and increase in the rear. I'm wondering if it has to be something with vehicle level or just a raised front.

  • 2 weeks later...
JBrian New Member

JBrian

Posted
Posted

I purchased a 2025 Silverado 1500 LTZ. Most often the grid lines for the backup camera are not visible. I also noticed an hourglass at the top left corner of the camera display. The button to enable grid lines is grayed out. Now, on a rare occasion the system loads, the hour glass is gone and the grid lines are visible as it should be. I took it to the dealership and they didn’t know what to do about it and said “give it some time”, so I waited a month and as expected no change. I called the dealership again and they said to call GM Customer Support. GM Customer Support said to take it to the dealership so they could open a case. I now have another appointment, but I have zero faith that anybody has a clue what to do.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...