Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I was doing my spring/summer oil change and noticed this stain on the drivers side head/block. I don’t think it’s oil but I’m also not sure why it is. I sprayed it down with brake cleaner and it left like a water line stain. I also noticed it coming from the rear location of the exhaust manifold on the driver's side. I also see some burnt spots in the middle of the manifold. The rear manifold bolt looks wet when the truck is running but not oil cause it doesn't smell. 

IMG_2814.jpeg

IMG_2834.jpeg

IMG_2835.jpeg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

So my exhaust manifold on my drivers side has been wet around the rear bolt and gasket area. I’m not sure if it’s oil or condensation? The reason I say that is it doesn’t burn or smell like oil but looks like it or a rust stain color. It only happens when running and dries up quick. The truck drives fine. Also no smoking at the exhaust pipe. What could this be? I purchased a new manifold, arp bolts, gaskets and valve cover gasket just to replace it but doesn’t look bad. Truck has 101k on it. 

IMG_2814.jpeg

Edited by Rickyace09
Posted (edited)

So I was able to get under the truck this morning and noticed that it is Oil. The level is normal and its not smoking. Hoping its the valve cover gasket. 

 

Edited by Rickyace09
Posted

Could be coolant then, these trucks run dexcool that is orange so the rust color make sense for coolant.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Oil would not dry up. Looks like coolant to me. Pressure test the system hot and cold

Posted

Definitely oil and coming from the last bolt on drivers side. Is that bolt going into an oil gallery? Seem worse last night that usual so definitely getting worse. 

Posted

The head bolts go in dry or they may come with a little thread locker. They don't require any special sealant for coolant or oil as far as I know. There is oil passages in the cylinder heads for oil to make it back into the crankcase. Those passages are sealed by the head gaskets.

Posted (edited)

No oil gallery in the heads. The bolt may have penetrated into 1 of the drainback channels, remove it and put some thread sealer on it. Again oil is not going to dry, it will collect dust and turn to greasy sludge. Where it is getting worse it is probably coolant, are you still running Dex-Cool or has someone switched it to green?

Edited by richard wysong
Posted
42 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

No oil gallery in the heads. The bolt may have penetrated into 1 of the drainback channels, remove it and put some thread sealer on it. Again oil is not going to dry, it will collect dust and turn to greasy sludge. Where it is getting worse it is probably coolant, are you still running Dex-Cool or has someone switched it to green?

Yeah it’s not drying up and to answer the coolant question it’s still running Dex-cool. 

Posted

Removed manifold to replace gasket and ports are dry as well bolt holes. Mechanic mentioned valve over was wet on edges so that was replaced as well. Hoping it’s that. Will keep an eye on it. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...