Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
21 hours ago, fondupot said:

 

Yes, Ive been running the RLI 5W30. I'm at around 4200 miles on current oil change, and I've only added about 1/3 quart of oil this interval. And it still looks nice and amber when I check it on the dipstick. Pretty good stuff!

 

Now that is interesting. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Why not get a "1 size larger diameter tire";  not wider, just taller, and drive in M7 all the time to keep it out of 2 cylinder mode to eliminate the oil pumping action of dead cylinders??!!!

  • Haha 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Byrds8 said:

Wouldnt it still being amber be a bad thing after 4200 miles? 

 

Combustion byproducts and their oxidation products, like soot, are what colors up your oil. The tighter the ring seal the longer that takes. So, I see it as a good thing. The part that is interesting is, it uses oil and still remains pretty clean for a good long while. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Combustion byproducts and their oxidation products, like soot, are what colors up your oil. The tighter the ring seal the longer that takes. So, I see it as a good thing. The part that is interesting is, it uses oil and still remains pretty clean for a good long while. 

Right. But after 4200 miles, whose oil is ever really still amber in color. I mean I have 2K since my last oil change. You can see some amber there but it aint perfectly clean. Wouldnt really expect it to be either though. But shoot 4200 is almost changing time.

Posted
3 hours ago, Byrds8 said:

Right. But after 4200 miles, whose oil is ever really still amber in color. I mean I have 2K since my last oil change. You can see some amber there but it aint perfectly clean. Wouldnt really expect it to be either though. But shoot 4200 is almost changing time.

 

Pepper goes 5K per OCI with 185K on her and still looks healthy. Runs on E-85 and has good rings. Looks between amber and light brown on chart below. 

 

Wife's Terrian, that one is between dark brown and black in a thousand miles. Rings are toast in that one. 

 

Rings, fuel, spark, oil, it all makes a difference. :dunno:

 

 

image.jpeg.da25e71aa1b324f658b395aef3f49fe3.jpeg

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

My avalanche and genesis are between the first and second dipstick at oil change intervals. It takes awhile to even see any change from a fresh oil change. The odyssey is just passing the second dipstick at its oil change. The two previous mentions use semi synthetic. The odyssey full synthetic. Most oil changes now are done at a valvoline quick lube. Yearly I’ll take the Genesis and the odyssey to the dealership for the free vehicle inspection. Yes they actually do it, I can watch. Those are at or past 150K miles. 

  • Like 2
Posted
On 10/9/2024 at 11:02 AM, customboss said:

My dealer service mgr says the PCV system is too “ strong “ for the design. I’ll take a qt in 5000 miles and run the RLI 5w30

thats $3.50 a qt and getting good wear and combustion readings. 
I purchased a 1978 J20 Jeep and it’s using no oil. 360 V8 I think.  

 

I can believe that but how does one design a breather system that must work for both a 1350 cc twin and a 2700 cc inline four and make that work? 

:dunno:

 

I've noticed lots of quirks in GDI AFM/DFM motors that make the head spin. Clean oil at the service interval and yet uses oil. Oil around the threads of the sparkplugs on the 'off' cylinders and yet a dry piston crown. Just weird stuff.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted
13 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Pepper goes 5K per OCI with 185K on her and still looks healthy. Runs on E-85 and has good rings. Looks between amber and light brown on chart below. 

 

Wife's Terrian, that one is between dark brown and black in a thousand miles. Rings are toast in that one. 

 

Rings, fuel, spark, oil, it all makes a difference. :dunno:

 

 

image.jpeg.da25e71aa1b324f658b395aef3f49fe3.jpeg

 

When a lubricant turns color from bottle color it’s usually additive being heat activated. After that as Grumpy shared above its stress. I’ve never a coolant leak make the oil opaque. Milky mess yes. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

RLI just went into my 1978 Jeep J20 truck 360 V8 that I think is a crate engine from Oreillys than never had an oil change since installation years ago. Unknown miles but its compression and ring seal makes me proud of AMC! 

Edited by customboss
spelling like a old man geezer
  • Like 1
Posted

Here’s what my oil looks like off the dipstick. This is around 4500 miles on the interval using RLI 5W30. The darker color is from dipstick. The lighter color is new oil for comparison. I did have to add about 1/2 quart or so after checking it. 
 

 

IMG_0700.jpeg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...