Jump to content

3.0 Duramax

Htown_LTZ
 Share

Recommended Posts

Htown_LTZ Enthusiast

Htown_LTZ

Posted
Posted

I owned the first generation of the 1500 duramax and loved it. It wasn't my daily driver, so I kept getting a check engine light. My guess is and from what the dealership told me, is that I didn't drive it enough to have the soot burn off. I don't currently own the truck anymore, but I am thinking of getting another one after my lease ends. My question is, how often and how long does the engine have to run for the system to do its thing? One service tech told me to turn it on daily for and let it run for about 20 minutes. Any info would be greatly appreciated. 

Jay P Enthusiast

Jay P

Posted
Posted (edited)

idling a modern diesel is a bad idea (builds soot really fast). If you drive the 3.0l around town it will regen more often but the 3.0l is less sensitive to non-highway/light load than the 6.6l is. A normal regen takes about 10 min on the highway. If you drive at highway speeds or loaded it will likely regen based on mileage or time and not soot level. One of 3 things will trigger a normal regen on a GM. Time, miles since last regen or soot level. Just an FYI but the GM diesels will stop a normal regen when the engine is idled in park and restart when in drive and moving again.

Edited by Jay P
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Sounds like that person at the dealer doesn't understand how they work. 

 

No need to do anything 'daily' to keep it happy'.

If the exhaust filter has soot problems it will give a 'keep driving message', not a check engine light.  

As @Jay P pointed out the 3.0 only takes about 10 miles to complete a regen and if a regen is interrupted that's ok too -- it will finish the regen when it's driven again. 

 

Unless it is giving 'keep driving' messages there is zero reason to do anything special. 

 

 

 

 

 

Htown_LTZ Enthusiast

Htown_LTZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I never got that "keep driving" message. I once got a "power reduced" message and it wasn't even a year old. What it also used to do was, sound like a Cummins with a lope. But I'd just shut it off for a while and it wouldn't do it. Any idea why it would do that?

Port Tack Farm Enthusiast

Port Tack Farm

Posted
Posted

Like most engines, but more so with diesels, they don't like short trips.  If I need to run up the street a couple miles to the grocery for my wife I take one of our cars.   I generally don't drive the truck unless I know the engine is going to get fully up to temperature, which depending on weather is generally about 5-10 miles.  Our truck isn't a daily driver so it sits in the driveway for several days in a row without moving and I've never had any issues with soot or regens.  My DEF usage is also spot on to what the manual says - generally less than 1 gal. per 1500 miles.

  • Like 1
Htown_LTZ Enthusiast

Htown_LTZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The only other vehicle I have is my work truck, but I don't like using it too much because of the tools in the back. My 3.0 was the first gen engines, bought it brand new in 2019. I will be getting another one, now that I've gotten some info on how they work. Thanks

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PunchT37
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • anthony2558
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By anthony2558 · Posted

      Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...