Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So, for the past couple weeks I have been noticing my gauges and message center going nuts on startup. When I start up then shift to Drive is when it starts to happen. You will see the shift never light up drive, the message center starts showing different messages, and the tpms I am posting a video. I have not done any trouble shooting or testing of anything but thought I would post the video to see if other have had similar issues. Now my battery is probably going on 5 years old, so I am leaning thinking that is possible issue. I know with my Volvos, when the battery gets weak the dash lights will start to do similar things like this. This weekend I will try to test the battery. Another thing I noticed is when I remote start and then unlock to get in the truck that the truck will shut off when I open the door. This did not happen before.

 

 

https://youtu.be/gZ4SGQrXJKk

Posted (edited)

I would suggest 2 things.

1. Test your battery. At 5 years for a lead acid battery it's at the end of it's life. With all the electronics on modern cars, it's common for electrical issues when voltage drops, especially at startup when so many amps are pulled.

2. Inspect & clean all grounds. A major issue with these GM trucks. 

Several good videos on YouTube on this. I actually added 2 additional engine grounds on my '17 based on this video.

 

 

 

good luck

 

 

 

Edited by rav3
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, rav3 said:

I would suggest 2 things.

1. Test your battery. At 5 years for a lead acid battery it's at the end of it's life. With all the electronics on modern cars, it's common for electrical issues when voltage drops, especially at startup when so many amps are pulled.

2. Inspect & clean all grounds. A major issue with these GM trucks. 

Several good videos on YouTube on this. I actually added 2 additional engine grounds on my '17 based on this video.

 

good luck

 Thanks for the videos! I found a similar one talking about the grounds. I will test the battery, but I am just going to replace it anyway. Although it starts fine, the last time I had to replace the original battery it stranded me. Left for work and stopped for coffee and when I came back out to leave it was dead not even a click. 

Edited by maronha
  • Like 1
Posted

So today I went out and tested the battery and it tested ok. This issue only happens when the gear sifter is moved for some reason. Will check the grounds later when it warms up. 

Posted

How did u check the battery? 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/22/2025 at 11:34 AM, rav3 said:

How did u check the battery? 

I just used my multimeter and watched it as I started the truck. Which the truck doesn't have any issues starting. I probably should have gone and had it tested with a load tester. Anyways the battery is just about 4.5 years old. I went ahead and replaced the battery today with a fresh one just due to age. The new battery did not make any difference. Still doing the same thing. Remember this issue only happens when I shift into gear. My next step is to check the grounds. Then I will try to be observant when I am driving to see if I notice any gauge malfunction like it does at start up.

Posted

double check your ground at the top of the dashboard near the speaker and your VIN tag. That ground is the big one that controls your dashboard and can cause flaky connectivity like you're experiencing. You can also try to bang on the dash and see if you can rattle anything around to trigger the issue.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, richard wysong said:

Did you check for any BCM codes?

Have not. I don't think I can do that with my cheap ODB ll code reader. Since we have an auto shop with mechanics where I work my Plan is to drive it to work and get them to scan it. I will make sure to check the BCM codes. 

Posted
1 hour ago, kickass audio said:

double check your ground at the top of the dashboard near the speaker and your VIN tag. That ground is the big one that controls your dashboard and can cause flaky connectivity like you're experiencing. You can also try to bang on the dash and see if you can rattle anything around to trigger the issue.

Thank you. I do plan to check the grounds tomorrow. I watched the video that was posted in this thread. Just trying to get this problem situated without going to the dealer. 

Posted

Talked to the mechanic at work and he said he will scan it for me Friday to see if there are any codes. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Back with a little update. I read that LED aftermarket lights can sometimes affect the gauges and cause issues. So I decided to switch back to stock headlights to see if that was the problem and I have not had the problem since doing that. Seems a little weird it just started happening after running the led lights for  5 month. 🤷

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...