School me on window tinting

[Atlas]

I realize this is not specific to just GM trucks. I'd like to get the front door windows on my Silverado tinted and have no idea regarding costs or the benefits of different types of films. I got a quote from a mobile guy who appears to have a good reputation:

 

2 Front Doors:
• Standard Dyed Film: $169
• Carbon Film: $239
• Nano Ceramic Film: $329

 

He recommends tinting all the glass (except front windshield, state laws) with Carbon or Nano tint for superior heat resistance and UV blocking. Says the factory tint on the sides and rear doesn't do much, and can do those in clear for the heat/uv benefit if I don't want them to appear any darker than they already. The rear glass looks about 25% visible light transmission from the factory. I'd like the front door glass to match the rear, visually, but don't know if 25% will be too dark for everyday driving. The truck is a black Trail Boss (factory black wheels, black color-matched bumpers, grille). I'm giggling a little bit because, unintentionally, my truck is looking very 'murdered'. Remember 25 years ago when people would go to great lengths to make everything on their vehicle black? That's just how this one is turning out...lol.

 

Is 'Nano Ceramic' really worth the extra cost (without knowing what specific brand/grade he's using)?

 

Does the factory tint in the rear actually suck, i.e. is it worth doing a clear tint on those for heat and UV? Again, black truck, the thing cooks in any amount of outdoor light. Would I even notice a difference?

 

 

Edited October 6, 2025 by Atlas

[newdude]

TLDR:  Its all going to come down to your state's tint laws and if its part of state inspection.  In NY for example, this is a legit issue as its part of state inspection.  So on a truck for example, the front windows have to be 70% or more light transmittance but the rears are fair game to pass.  Cars, convertibles, coupes, wagons, all windows have to be 70% or higher.  To keep tint on and pass NYSI, gotta have a medical exemption tag displayed on a window on the car at all times.

 

As built from the factory however, the factory glass on all GM vehicles is 50 state legal which is why none of the cars have 70% transmittance on all windows, and the trucks and SUVs can be ordered or come with the privacy glass on all windows except the fronts.

 

 

Factory glass is as follows:  Glass TSB - 21-NA-152 1..1

 

Windshield UV reduces UV rays down to 4% (blocks 96% of UV rays).

 

Front side door glass reduces UV rays down to 35% or less (blocks 65% or more of UV rays).

 

Rear window, doors, or 1/4 glass reduces UV rays down to 10%or less if equipped with Privacy Glas(blocks 90% or more of UV rays). 

 

Tint levels:

 

Windshields are SOLAR glass with a light transmittance of >/=70%.

 

Front door glass are Solar glass with a light transmission of >/=70%.

 

Rear door glass, quarter windows and back windows can use either Solar glass (>/=70%) or Privacy glass, which has a light transmittance of (nominally) 20%.

 

 

So the rear windows definitely don't to "nothing" as the tint guy suggests, but none of the stock glass has heat rejection.  AKA car still gets stupid hot inside on a hot day.  

 

Best I can gather on "carbon" vs "nano", at least looking on Suntek's website is the basic "carbon" ones don't block infrared rays while the "ceramic" series does.  Both offer almost identical UV protection, glare (depending on tint level) and solar rejection.  automotive-window-film-specifications.pdf 

 

Obviously this can change based on the manufacturer of the tint but Suntek is a well known player in the field so I went with theirs as an example.  

 

 

So yes, even at no added darkness, window film does have some strong benefits in terms of heat, UV and IR ray blocking.  So like 20% on the fronts and then have the rears done to keep or add slight tint but get the benefits of the film (heat, solar, UV and IR).  

 

 

 

Edited October 6, 2025 by newdude

[Atlas]

@newdude Great information, thanks for posting and supplying the link describing the factory glass.

[txab]

Ceramic is the way to go. New car I bought a few months back, ceramic all around. Makes a huge difference on heat. Worth the money                                

[silveradosid]

agree with ceramic, i had my done with ceramic. its also important to what type of coating it is, you cannot use just basic window cleaner on some of these tints

[JP642]

I had a strip put across the top of the windshield and did my sunroof (to reflect as much as possible to lower temps even behind the shade)

 

One warning - my tint shop was not as careful in putting the front camera assembly back in so it threw off all the collision and lane sensors and required a dealer visit to fix

[newdude]

1 hour ago, JP642 said:

I had a strip put across the top of the windshield and did my sunroof (to reflect as much as possible to lower temps even behind the shade)

 

One warning - my tint shop was not as careful in putting the front camera assembly back in so it threw off all the collision and lane sensors and required a dealer visit to fix

 

 

Would have needed to be calibrated anyway.  Any time the camera is removed it must be calibrated.  

 

"This process is required anytime the module is removed from it’s bracket, or the windshield glass has been replaced, and the frontview camera module has been mounted again properly. Any maintenance, repair, or part replacement that impacts the vehicle ride height will also require frontview camera calibration."

[Atlas]

The guy arrived on Thursday and tinted the front door windows to 25% which I think looks perfect. Easy peasy. It's been 3 days and I haven't rolled down the windows. I've driven it, though, and I really like the shade and privacy. It's not too dark at night, either...I've had a car that was too dark and 25% seems to be just right for me. /end of story