94 C1500 won't start

[dji1]

It turns over but won't start. Last week it started in my driveway then stalled. Now it only cranks.

 

It has been running great.

 

!994 Silverado 350 205,000 miles

 

What I have noticed and checked/replaced, so far. 

 

The fuel pump runs when I turn on the ignition. I can smell fuel when I crank it.

Replaced the fuel pump on 158,500 on 2/2012. New fuel filter last week.

New Distributor 6/2020 =186,410 

Replaced ignition module and spark plugs last week. Distributor cap and rotor look good.

 

Any ideas on what I should check?

 

Thanks

 

 

[davester]

maybe check if you are getting spark and compression?

[dji1]

I will check the compression. I am not sure what is the best way to check for spark by myself? 

 

Thanks

[dji1]

I just checked compression on cylinder #1 and I do have some compression. I didn't see any arcing coming from the disconnected ignition wire 1? I was inside the vehicle.  

[richard wysong]

Pull the wire off the coil, the spark should jump to the metal coil bracket if it has spark. Maybe invest in a cheap spark tester if you are working alone. You can crank it over under the hood by jumping the starter relay. It wouldn't be the first time I've seen an ignition module fail after replacement, did it run at all with the new 1? With that mileage the timing chain is a distinctly possibility also, i'm not sure how similar the ignition system is to my old 98 but the wires to my crankshaft sensor shorted out on the exhaust manifold and it took me a couple of days to figure that 1 out

[dji1]

I will try pulling the coil wire. I do have a remote starter switch that I bought 40 years ago. I know it is in the garage somewhere. No, the truck never started with the new ignition module.  I have considered the timing chain, but I thought I would have heard something if it was the timing chain. How can I check the timing chain without pulling the cover? 

I don't get any codes when I check the ECM. But I plan to check the wiring to the Anti-Knoch sensor and if I can find the electronic spark control (ESC) system.  Don't know if they would cause the no start. I would expect to see an error code, but I don't.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

 

[KARNUT]

31 minutes ago, dji1 said:

I will try pulling the coil wire. I do have a remote starter switch that I bought 40 years ago. I know it is in the garage somewhere. No, the truck never started with the new ignition module.  I have considered the timing chain, but I thought I would have heard something if it was the timing chain. How can I check the timing chain without pulling the cover? 

I don't get any codes when I check the ECM. But I plan to check the wiring to the Anti-Knoch sensor and if I can find the electronic spark control (ESC) system.  Don't know if they would cause the no start. I would expect to see an error code, but I don't.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

 

Look up 94 GM truck anti theft no start issue. See if that’s the issue. It will show the process to fix that if it’s the problem.

[richard wysong]

to check the timing, line up the timing marks on the balancer and remove the dist cap, If it is on #1 the rotor should be pointing straight forward or backward if its on #6. You can also turn the balancer back and forth by hand and see how much play is in the chain before the cam starts to move. The knock sensor won't keep it from starting

Edited April 14 by richard wysong

[dji1]

My 94 Silverado doesn't have any anti thief system. My 94 corvette does.  I did buy an aftermarket security system but that was removed years ago. When I bought the truck in 96 my insurance company told me it was the most stolen vehicle in Texas.  

 

I am planning to remove the distributor cap later today. I will check the timing marks and play in the timing chain.  I 

won't worry about the knock sensor. 

 

I don't know if my truck has an electronic spark control (ESC) system or not, but I will spend some time checking that out. 

 

Thanks again for the ideas it really helps me.

 

 

[dji1]

I couldn't connect my remote starter to the solenoid. Couldn't get at it. I used my phone to video the un-plugged ignition wire from the coil. I didn't see any spark in the video. I not sure if this was a valid test. I just laid the un-plugged wire next to a metal backet. 

 

I also took the distributor cap off to see if the rotor would move when I turn the key on. It did.

 

Does this tell me that the new ignition module is bad? 

 

Thanks

[richard wysong]

Probably not. Do you have a service manual? If not go to Charmli for a free download and follow the trouble tree for no start, no spark to diagnose without firing the parts cannon. The spark wouldn't come out of the wire, it would jump from the coil tower to the bracket. You can use your remote start to jump the starter relay in the under hood fuse box, make a lead with a spade terminal on it, hook 1 lead to +battery and 1 to the lead you just made up plugged into the starter terminal in the fuse box where the unplugged relay was, look at the schematic on the relay to determine the correct terminal. Make sure the key is on when testing. Have you checked the ECM fuses in the under hood fuse box?

Edited April 15 by richard wysong

[dji1]

I do have an old Haynes manual. I have been using it since the 90's. It is pretty good. I did download the Charmli manual (excellent) and I plan to look it over later today/tomorrow. 

The leads on my remote starter are not very long. I can't complain. It was only $2.00.  I will jack the truck up and find a way to connect it to the starter solenoid. 

I thought I checked all the fuses under the hood and inside the truck. I will go back and make sure.

 

Attached video

  

 

 

 

[richard wysong]

A test light is the quickest and most accurate way to test the fuses, it will also show a dead circuit if there is 1

[dji1]

I do have a test light and voltmeter. I have used both on this problem. The fuse box inside the truck I pulled most of the relevant fuses and used my meter. I also used it to check the coil.

 

I hope I found all the fuses that maybe causing the problem. Tomorrow, I plan to re-check wiring and fuse to start off with.

Then to the timing check. 

 

I used the test light to check voltage to the fuel pump under the hood. 

 

I haven't done anything on the truck today. I needed a break.  I do plan to spend most of this weekend working on it.

 

Thanks again for all the help.

 

 

[richard wysong]

the ECM fuses are in the under hood fuse box. Use the test light to probe both ends of the fuse with the key on, no need to remove the fuses