Suspension Component Replacement - 125k miles with Leveling Kit

[bp07]

Looked over quite a few threads with good info on this.  Wanted to run it by the group here to see if I was on the right track with components I plan to replace on my truck suspension.  Truck has almost 125k miles on it now.  Put on the Rough Country 2.5" budget level kit when the truck was new.  Lower strut spacer, upper 0.5" strut spacer in the front and 2" block in the rear.  Put on Falken Wildpeak AT3W 275/70R18 (33x11.2) at that same time on the stock 18" wheels.  Tires have a little bit of life left, but at over 120k on them I am looking to get a new set and want to get the suspension components replaced prior to this.  

I plan to go with a HT 265/70R18 tire and not E rated. Let the flaming begin   8years ago I wanted the look now I want more of the comfort and MPG back as the truck rarely tows or goes off road now.  However, I do not want to go back to stock ride height I just couldn't live with myself if I did that.  Still want to maintain close to that 2.5" and level look that I have now.  Nothing is completely worn out on the suspension components.  Not getting noise or any noticeable vibrations or movement.   After 125k with the 2.5 lift the stock ball joints held up well.  Here is what I am planning to change out prior to the new tires.   Again goal is to replace the old components, tighten the feel back up, and provide a little smoother ride for the highway.  The truck has the stamped steel control arms.  

 

Front Shocks - BILSTEIN 24336895 - B8 5100

Rear Shocks - BILSTEIN 24285896 - B8 5100

Tie Rod Inner - MOOG EV800938
Tie Rod Outer - MOOG ES800948
Lower Control Arms - Moog CK620889 
Upper Control Arms - Rough Country 2.5" - 3" Forged UCA

Tires - Falken Wildpeak H/T02 - 265/70R18 (32.6x10.6)   (around 0.4" shorter, 0.6" narrower, 19lbs lighter than current)

 

My main questions: 

• On the front shock if I understand it right I remove the RC lower strut spacer and just run the Bilstein strut at the highest 1.85 - 2" setting.  It replaces the spacer and gives back some shock travel improving ride quality.  The top 0.5" plate spacer will remain.  Giving somewhere around 2.35 - 2.5" total lift which is right about where I was
• On the back shock I am keeping the 2" RC block and just plan to change out the stock shock with this new one that is designed for a 2" lift.  Are there height settings for the rear shock?  If so what height should  I set these at?
• UCA - I had no issues with my stock UCA and the angle that it was at with the lift.  However, I figured if I need new joints and bushings I might as well change out the entire arm and correct the angle.  Is this the right direction on this?  The RC appears to work with my truck originally having the stamped UCA.  It is stating to run stock wheel offset a .25" spacer is required.  Not thrilled with this idea, but was hoping with the narrower tire I may not need this.  I do get a slight rub on the stock UCA at full lock with the current 33x11.2" tires.  

 

Anyone see a better direction to go on this.  Trying to keep it decent quality on a budget.  With tires its around $2,300 for the components.  Get the worn components replaced, get some ride quality back, and increase some MPG in the process.  Any while you are in there items I should think about while its torn apart?  

Edited May 6 by bp07

[HoosierZ]

The Bilsteins will give you a firmer ride. Maybe look into Eibach instead. They are a little softer valving than the Bilstein and not as harsh. I went with the Eibachs to get their 2-1/2” lift springs which are a little stiffer than factory. 
 

There is nothing to set on the rear shocks. Just bolt them on and go. 
 

For upper control arms, I have the Superlift 2-3 1/2” aluminum arms on mine along with 305/65/18 KO3s on 18x9 +12mm offset wheels and I have no rubbing issues with the control arms. Compared to a 265 on the factory +24mm offset 18s, the inner sidewall of my tires is about 8mm closer to the control arms.

 

 

[mikeyk101]

I think getting rid of the lower Rough Country spacer is a positive move no matter what you do. I put on the spacers on my 2016 in Sep 2019. In 2022, I decided to remove them in favor of Rancho Quicklift struts. It was a nightmare. The bolts that hold the bottom of the struts on were heavily rusted. With some extra effort, I was able to fully remove the right side but the left side was even worse. I got the nuts off but the bolts were stuck in place. I ended up snapping off both bolts in the middle.

 

 

I had to drill them out. I even tried using penetrating oil and let it sit on them for some time but no dice. If yours is anything like my experience, you're in for a "fun" time.

[papageoff]

14 hours ago, HoosierZ said:

The Bilsteins will give you a firmer ride. Maybe look into Eibach instead. They are a little softer valving than the Bilstein and not as harsh. I went with the Eibachs to get their 2-1/2” lift springs which are a little stiffer than factory. 
 

There is nothing to set on the rear shocks. Just bolt them on and go. 
 

For upper control arms, I have the Superlift 2-3 1/2” aluminum arms on mine along with 305/65/18 KO3s on 18x9 +12mm offset wheels and I have no rubbing issues with the control arms. Compared to a 265 on the factory +24mm offset 18s, the inner sidewall of my tires is about 8mm closer to the control arms.

 

 

+1 on the bilsteins being stiff.  All the research I've done says eibachs are more comforatable but "meh" off-road.  I have e-rated tires and the 5100s set on the highest setting.  It's VERY stiff in normal driving.  

I'm planning to drop to XL tires and maybe go to Eibachs as well if the tires don't smooth it enough for me.  

[asilverblazer]

23 hours ago, bp07 said:

• On the front shock if I understand it right I remove the RC lower strut spacer and just run the Bilstein strut at the highest 1.85 - 2" setting.  It replaces the spacer and gives back some shock travel improving ride quality.  The top 0.5" plate spacer will remain.  Giving somewhere around 2.35 - 2.5" total lift which is right about where I was
• On the back shock I am keeping the 2" RC block and just plan to change out the stock shock with this new one that is designed for a 2" lift.  Are there height settings for the rear shock?  If so what height should  I set these at?
• UCA - I had no issues with my stock UCA and the angle that it was at with the lift.  However, I figured if I need new joints and bushings I might as well change out the entire arm and correct the angle.  Is this the right direction on this?  The RC appears to work with my truck originally having the stamped UCA.  It is stating to run stock wheel offset a .25" spacer is required.  Not thrilled with this idea, but was hoping with the narrower tire I may not need this.  I do get a slight rub on the stock UCA at full lock with the current 33x11.2" tires. 

• Yes.
• There are no rear shock height settings.
• No comments, except that I'm surprised you haven't had joint issues, being outside the maximum recommended lift amount on stock components. In any case, aftermarket parts are never as good as the factory.

[asilverblazer]

2 hours ago, papageoff said:

+1 on the bilsteins being stiff.  All the research I've done says eibachs are more comforatable but "meh" off-road.  I have e-rated tires and the 5100s set on the highest setting.  It's VERY stiff in normal driving.  

I'm planning to drop to XL tires and maybe go to Eibachs as well if the tires don't smooth it enough for me.  

The Bilstein 4600, allow more travel and continuous motion than the 5100. I would describe the 4600 as softer. This is contrary to Bilstein saying they are essentially the same.

 

Depending on how the shock is valved determines how it handles impacts (sudden, intense, rapid vertical travel of the wheel) versus undulations or weight transfers (slow, steady motion, cyclical). Further still, sharp impacts do not necessarily equate to large vertical wheel travel, like expansion joints, pavement cracks, etc. 

 

If there is no (or little) vertical movement of the tire - the shock has nothing to control. 

 

To describe a shock as soft or stiff is a very over simplified description of how it functions, reacts and performs and what that actually does to the ride of a vehicle.

 

For more fun thoughts on the matter, consider dribbling a basketball that is over inflated, under inflated or flat, do the same on concrete, dirt and grass, dribble harder, softer, faster, slower; note the difference in how high the ball bounces.

 

Your tires are just like the basketball. 

 

Consider what the springs are doing too, a spring that is infinitely too stiff, no amount of weight or force can compress it - are the shocks helping anything?

 

A spring that easily compresses and rebounds. Compressing and pulling the shock apart over and over again...

[bp07]

Appreciate the info.  A few additional clarifying questions.  

• When your are comparing the ride quality between the Bilstein 5100 and stock with the Bilstein being stiffer does that comparison include the stock shock in the 2.5" spacer lift setup?
• This is the Eibach Shock you are referring to Eibach E60-23-006-03-10, correct?  Same scenario here remove the lower RC strut spacer and install these at the 2" lift setting, correct? 
  • This would be the rear shock to go with it.  Eibach E60-23-006-03-10
• I saw those Superlift UCA and they caught my eye, but they state for (14-18 Silverado 1500 w/ Stock Cast Steel Control Arms).  Thought I had this straight in my head, but here our my current OE UCA's will the Superlift ones work? 
  • 
  • In regards to the comment about aftermarket is always < OE.  I got 125k out of my OE ball joints at the poor angle caused by the lift.  Would you recommend going with OE again or going to aftermarket ones improving the angle even if the ball joints themselves might be < OE quality? 
  • Does the Bilstein 4600 come in the 2" lift version?  Or am I overthinking this whole lifted strut vs RC strut spacer scenario? 
  • Thanks for the description and pics of the removal of the RC strut spacer.  Can't wait to fight that battle 

Edited May 8 by bp07

[HoosierZ]

Those are the correct Eibach front shocks. You posted the same link to the front shocks as the rear. 
 

Your truck definitely has the stamped steel arms. These are the Superlift arms you need. They are the same ones I have on my truck that had factory aluminum arms. 

[bp07]

Appreciate all the help.  This is the direction I am going:

• Front Shocks - Eibach E60-23-006-03-10   $318 
  • Setting shock to 2" and removing the lower RC strut spacer
• Rear Shocks - Eibach - E60-23-032-01-01    $298
• Tie Rod Inners - Moog - EV800938     $66
• Tie Rod Outers - Moog - ES800948      $54
• Lower Control Arms - Moog - CK620889   Moog - CK620888    $326
• Upper Control Arms - Superlift Reflex 2 - 3.50"     $280
• 0.25" Wheel Spacers - Aluminum Wheel Spacer    $30     (just in case)
• Coil Spring Insulators Lower - GM GENUINE - 20841899   $11 
• Coil Spring Insulators Upper - GM GENUINE - 84061243   $33
• Sway Bar Links - Dorman - SL90175RD    $20

Total - $1,436 plus tax and shipping 

[asilverblazer]

14 hours ago, bp07 said:

Appreciate the info.  A few additional clarifying questions.  

• When your are comparing the ride quality between the Bilstein 5100 and stock with the Bilstein being stiffer does that comparison include the stock shock in the 2.5" spacer lift setup?
• In regards to the comment about aftermarket is always < OE.  I got 125k out of my OE ball joints at the poor angle caused by the lift.  Would you recommend going with OE again or going to aftermarket ones improving the angle even if the ball joints themselves might be < OE quality? 
• Does the Bilstein 4600 come in the 2" lift version?  Or am I overthinking this whole lifted strut vs RC strut spacer scenario? 
• Thanks for the description and pics of the removal of the RC strut spacer.  Can't wait to fight that battle 

• Spacers do not alter the suspensions performance in anyway - UNLESS you have so many installed that they are forcing the upper control arm down against the droop limit/stop/tab/bracket on the frame.
• If you were at or below 2" lift in the front I would stay OE, really, there is no for sure way to know what is going to work out better. No one has the data necessary. I would recommend parts with a lifetime warranty if you can get it.
• I don't think the 4600 come in a lift version. I preferred using a lift strut vs. the spacer to eliminate extra parts in the overall system. I wouldn't let that stop me from getting the shock/strut that I want and using the lower spacer if I had to.
• At least the access should be pretty good to get at the bolts/holes. I'd replace the hardware with stainless if you can get stainless in the proper grade. The bolts on my past truck corroded pretty badly too, they didn't seize in the hole though.

[asilverblazer]

9 minutes ago, bp07 said:

Appreciate all the help.  This is the direction I am going:

• Front Shocks - Eibach E60-23-006-03-10   $318 
  • Setting shock to 2" and removing the lower RC strut spacer
• Rear Shocks - Eibach - E60-23-032-01-01    $298
• Tie Rod Inners - Moog - EV800938     $66
• Tie Rod Outers - Moog - ES800948      $54
• Lower Control Arms - Moog - CK620889   Moog - CK620888    $326
• Upper Control Arms - Superlift Reflex 2 - 3.50"     $280
• 0.25" Wheel Spacers - Aluminum Wheel Spacer    $30     (just in case)
• Coil Spring Insulators Lower - GM GENUINE - 20841899   $11 
• Coil Spring Insulators Upper - GM GENUINE - 84061243   $33
• Sway Bar Links - Dorman - SL90175RD    $20

Total - $1,436 plus tax and shipping 

Might consider adding bumpstops/jounce bumpers and upper control arm alignment cams (literally the only parts you aren't replacing and they are cheap).

 

See previous post about lifetime warranty on parts. Moog used to be a good brand mixed opinions in the last 5-10 years.

 

Greaseable parts where you can. 

 

Had a new sway bar link break before too.

 

Other items to consider, you're going to be in deep enough that brake pads and rotors are right there, along with wheel bearings and cv-shafts. Any hint that they are worn would be a good time to replace them.

 

[bp07]

Trying to wrap up this suspension install and ran into a problem.  I have researched it and do not see other people having the issue so assuming its something simple I am just missing.  The ears on the front shocks do not line up with the holes on the lower control arm.   They just need to be turned maybe 15 deg or so.  I assumed all along this would be a simple tweak with a long wrench and they would turn and I could line them up.  I cannot for the life of me get these to turn.  I have put a ton of leverage and pressure on them they won't budge.  Assuming I am doing something wrong and don't want to break anything.  Googling it AI says everything from Yes the ears can be rotated with significant leverage and force all the way to the shocks are side specific, or you need to rotate the shock in the spring.  I just risked life and limb to compress those spring to get these lifted shocks in so I am really hoping I do not need to do that again.  

 

Can someone tell me if these ears can be rotated if so how.  If not then what do I have assembled incorrectly that would allow these ears to line up.  Trying to get this finished ASAP so I can get the tool rental return.  Thanks!

 

 

[richard wysong]

Compress the spring just enough to ease the pressure so that it can be rotated

[HoosierZ]

Compress the springs and rotate the shock 180 degrees so that the angle of the bar matches the angle of the LCA. 

[bp07]

Thanks. Should have time this evening to work on it.  I think rotating the driver side shock inside the spring 180deg should put that tab angle in good alignment.  On passenger side doesn’t seem like the tabs have much of an angle on it either way.  Seems like I might need to rotate the tab on that one a bit.  To clarify are you saying that compressing spring and releasing tension will allow the tab to rotate easier as well ?

Edited May 30 by bp07