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Hard Starting Due To Loss Of Fuel Pressure - Help!

brufener

By brufener
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low2kchevy Enthusiast

low2kchevy

Posted
Posted

i had starting trouble on my 2000 5.3 and checked fullsizechevy.coms forum and everyone said fuel pressure regulator, if you pull the vaccum hose off of it and gas drips out the regulater is bad and needs to be replaced, i did it to mine and sure enough gas came out so 45 dollers later for the part at auto zone now truck starts like new hopefully that helps

  • 2 weeks later...
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RayRayGSXR
RayRayGSXR

I too have the same problem, I have 2002 Yukon, and it started off... if it was left with under a 1/4 tank of gas and sat over night it wouldn't start. I noticed it progressively getting worse that if

clean66 New Member

clean66

Posted
Posted

Hello all,

 

Same problem with my 03 6.0.

Fuel pressure regulator is good. After sitting, no pressure at Schrader valve, no gauge to check key-on pressure.

I have been qouted the following from Chevy dealer: p/n 19121626, Module, Fuel Tank Meter Sender/Connector, $545.88. Is this a separate part from the fuel pump?

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

  • 8 months later...
chrias New Member

chrias

Posted
Posted

I have the same issure with my 2000 Suburban 5.3. I've replaced the FPR and fuel filter with no change. I have to prime the system 3 times to get 55 psi and when I shut it off the pressure drops quickly to 15 psi and slowly bleeds down to zero.

 

I don't think my injectors are leaking because I'm not having driveability problems, it's not flooding on startup and there is no black smoke coming out of the exhaust after startup.

 

I'm guessing it's my fuel pump and I changed that two years ago.

zickefoj Enthusiast

zickefoj

Posted
Posted
I have the same issure with my 2000 Suburban 5.3. I've replaced the FPR and fuel filter with no change. I have to prime the system 3 times to get 55 psi and when I shut it off the pressure drops quickly to 15 psi and slowly bleeds down to zero.

 

I don't think my injectors are leaking because I'm not having driveability problems, it's not flooding on startup and there is no black smoke coming out of the exhaust after startup.

 

I'm guessing it's my fuel pump and I changed that two years ago.

 

I have an 03 5.3 liter V8 Burb and I am having a lot of the same issues decribed in this thread.

 

A couple of other things happening to me are while driving down the road my engine basically cuts out - hesitates really bad, I can feel the power steering go away. I have no smell of gas or leaks that I can visablly see.

 

I have replaced the Fuel Filter and the plugs to date.

 

Any advice on the Regulator as for its location and what it looks like? From what I read if I find this and pull the hose there should be NO fuel in coming from the hose - correct? If wet at all then bladder is borke and it should be replaced.

 

Has any done a Fuel Pump on the Burb in order to give some direction?

 

Thanks,

 

Stitch

  • 3 months later...
whiplash Enthusiast

whiplash

Posted
Posted

I am still having a starting issue with little time to work on the truck, but my pressure is good all the way around. Mine is an '05 and the dealer said that the pump, filter AND regulator are all one piece in-tank. Can the pump and/or filter be replaced individually on the newer trucks or does it have to be an assembly change?

  • 2 months later...
putter New Member

putter

Posted
Posted

Hi newbie here,I have a 2000 Yukon xl with 140K on it. I have a similar problem, last summer the fuel pump went out on me on vacation,

 

Long story short had the dealer replace the pump and filter, $1,000.00 later it ran fine.

 

After a wile it started to have starting problems. When cold or sat for 5+hrs it started just fine. If I let it sit more than 20 minutes it doesn't want to start right a way, it cranks for 15-30 seconds and sputters to life. I'm going to check the regulator tonight.

 

Did the regulator fix anyone's yet??

  • 2 weeks later...
scrowetn New Member

scrowetn

Posted
Posted
i had starting trouble on my 2000 5.3 and checked fullsizechevy.coms forum and everyone said fuel pressure regulator, if you pull the vaccum hose off of it and gas drips out the regulater is bad and needs to be replaced, i did it to mine and sure enough gas came out so 45 dollers later for the part at auto zone now truck starts like new hopefully that helps

 

I was having the exact same problem as Putter:

 

"When cold or sat for 5+hrs it started just fine. If I let it sit more than 20 minutes it doesn't want to start right a way, it cranks for 15-30 seconds and sputters to life."

 

After a while, I also started getting a low rough idle and occasional stalls at idle. I registered a few 0300 random misfire engine codes as a result. Thanks to low2kchevy for the tip about pulling the vacum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. I did mine and sure enough I also had gas drip out. Went to Auto Zone and got the $45 replacement part, installed it and now it starts and idles like new! As a note, I had to re-use the old filter screen instead of the filter screen that came with the new fuel pressure regulator. For whatever reason, the new screen was a hair too wide and I couldn't get the clip back on using it. Also, watch out for the little o-ring that may not come out when you remove the regulator. I had to go in after mine with a pair of sharp nose pliers.

  • 1 month later...
ryans_z71 New Member

ryans_z71

Posted
Posted

This is my first post - I have a 2003 5.3 Sierra and I am having the hard starting problems also. I have replaced the fuel pump and the fuel regulator with no luck to resolving the issue. So, I bought a pressure gauge that attaches to the Schrader valve and it registers 45 psi at idle and during cranking slowly builds to 45 psi. I read that the psi needs to be 55 at idle and 65 psi just with the ignition in the on position. Is this correct?

markw8 Enthusiast

markw8

Posted
Posted
This is my first post - I have a 2003 5.3 Sierra and I am having the hard starting problems also. I have replaced the fuel pump and the fuel regulator with no luck to resolving the issue. So, I bought a pressure gauge that attaches to the Schrader valve and it registers 45 psi at idle and during cranking slowly builds to 45 psi. I read that the psi needs to be 55 at idle and 65 psi just with the ignition in the on position. Is this correct?

 

 

I can't say for certain, but I believe your 55-65 is more likely to be correct than 45#s.

 

Mark.

rs250 Enthusiast

rs250

Posted
Posted

Hey all...I used to spend a lot of time here back in 03 when my truck was new but have not been on in some time and forgot my old info so had to re-register...

 

I have a 2003 1500 with a 4.8L. I just did a major tune up @ 120K last week and about two days ago I started having the hard start issue...wierd since I just did plugs, cleaned TB and MAF and lots of other stuff...truck is babied and very well maintained, has been flawless for 5 years and a 120K but now this!

 

I put a fuel press. tester on it today and it cranks up to about 50 or so but then bleeds down to zero VERY fast...less than a minute. Tried changing the regulator with a new one but still same thing...I should be getting 55-62psi I think and little to no leak down correct?

 

Could this be my check valve in the fuel pump going bad?

 

I also just replaced the fuel filter when I did my big 120K tune up, I think it was the third filter I have put on and also ran some Techron....I doubt this caused anything though...my fuel pump is original and has 3000 hours of run time.

 

So my questions...is my fuel pressure bleed off due to a check valve in the pump assy. since I swapped regulators with no joy?

 

Is my somewhat low fuel pressure a result of my pump getting old and weak (not 55-62 psi) ??

 

Thanks!

  • 3 months later...
fatsix New Member

fatsix

Posted
Posted

I'm having the same issue as Glenns. Just replaced the fpr and no change. The truck runs fine, When you turn the key on it builds pressure immediately and after two minutes it drops to 0. AFter the truck sits for an hour or so, I have to cycle the key 3-4 times to get it to start. I'm guessing the check valve in the pump is bad and is allowing the fuel to drain from the lines? Just like to be sure before i drop the tank.

  • 1 month later...
rs250 Enthusiast

rs250

Posted
Posted (edited)

Funny that I come back to this tonight....well I have been driving the truck for months like this including some long over the road trips. Finally got tired of the wait to start so I have the bed off right now and am replacing the pump with a new GM unit tonight...it is probably ready even if the check valve is the only thing wrong as the truck just turned a 130K over the weekend!!

 

So, here I am replacing the pump, which btw was making stranger noises the last few days, and I am bit confused.

 

I see this came with a new plug to splice in the harness, ok, no problem but it says to toss the 20 amp fuse and replace with new one included in kit, except there is no fuse...so what does it need, a 30 amp one now? Is it drawing more power?

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm having the same issue as Glenns. Just replaced the fpr and no change. The truck runs fine, When you turn the key on it builds pressure immediately and after two minutes it drops to 0. AFter the truck sits for an hour or so, I have to cycle the key 3-4 times to get it to start. I'm guessing the check valve in the pump is bad and is allowing the fuel to drain from the lines? Just like to be sure before i drop the tank.
Edited by glenns

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