Jump to content

Oem Cd Player And Homemade Cds?


Recommended Posts

Posted

You mean CD-Rs? No, they won't hurt anything. Whoever told you that is smoking some serious stuff...

Posted

Just another crock of crap. I've used them for years, without problem. It IS possible to damage the player if you stick the cd labels on them....sometimes they can cause problems.....but as for the cd's themselves, tell whoever gave you that advice to stick their head in the sand.

 

OH, did I just rant???? LOL!!!

 

I hate stupid people. (the guy the advice came from)

Posted
Thanks for the replies. This info came from an independent auto audio shop.

 

 

Sounds like the independent auto audio shop is trying to sell you one of their units that can handle homemade CDs "unlike" a factory head unit...

Posted

I have used them for years!! Just use a sharpie marker to label them.

Make sure you don't burn MP3 onto the disk... they won't play on the factory (older) decks. The new ones they will! (About time GM)

Posted
I have used them for years!! Just use a sharpie marker to label them.

Make sure you don't burn MP3 onto the disk... they won't play on the factory (older) decks. The new ones they will! (About time GM)

 

 

I want a factory MP3 deck :thumbs:

Posted
I have used them for years!! Just use a sharpie marker to label them.

Make sure you don't burn MP3 onto the disk... they won't play on the factory (older) decks. The new ones they will! (About time GM)

 

 

I want a factory MP3 deck :thumbs:

 

You might be able to swap out your deck with a Colorado/Canyon head unit. Not sure if the two are compatible though...

Posted

No way, add an iPod with an adapter! (not a FM transmitter)

Way better sound and you can take your entire cd library with you on trips.

Posted
No way, add an iPod with an adapter! (not a FM transmitter)

Way better sound and you can take your entire cd library with you on trips.

 

They hook right up to the factory deck? or is there splicing and stuff to do?

 

I also have to get an Ipod than though....oh well...more toys.

Posted

Yah, plug right in! Use the steering wheel controls. Ipod acts like a CD changer.

Only problem with downloading music and burning it to disc, mp3's loose bass when converted back to play on a std. cd player. Had a bunch of disks that sound like crap in my new truck, tried a regular cd, sounded great. Unless your going to spend big bucks and upgrade your deck, amps, subs... I didn't want to do that to my truck. But the iPod + adapter and my Bose sound pretty good. I have hooked mine to the XM input and it has better bass as well.

Posted

Make sure you do not put label on the CD. Just use a Sharpie marker to write on it. CD players are prone to jam with homemade CD's with the labels on them.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 315 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...