Jump to content

Drop In Mpg


Recommended Posts

Posted

Not sure what happened but all of a sudden my 07 NBS MPG took a nosedive from 12 to 9 MPG. This is hand calculated not from the DIC. This has been on the last two tanks of fuel - bought at different stations and brands. Current is from Chevron. Earlier this summer I was hitting 14-15 on the hy and 12 around town and 10-11 pulling my TT. The last trip with the TT was Aug 8th and when I returned from it is when the MPG went downhill. BTW I only got around 8 MPG on the trip with the TT. I have just over 18K and am close to an oil change, the air meter on the filter box is in the green. She has pleanty of pep - just thirsty.

Posted

Parking brake dragging? Try to spin the wheels while up on jack stands.

 

Perhaps the fuel filter is plugged up?

 

Stop by AutoZone for a code scan.

Posted

Are you running the original air filter? Dont rely on those air meters on the air cleaner box. If your running and K&N filter the oil used for the filter can and will build-up on the MAF sensor in the air tube (mass airflow sensor) and screw up your air-fuel ratio.

Posted

Yes it is the OEM filter - in fact I have not changed it - the last time I looked at it, it was still bright white. Now the fuel filter - that could be the problem - however in the past I have also seen a drop in performance when it is clogged. I also have heard that the fuel filter for these rigs is in the tank and can only be replaced by a GM Tech - can any one shed some light on this for me?

Also here in Oregon we run E10 all year long now - could that have anything to do with it?

Posted

OK, the truck has known nothing but E10, the air filter is still bright white. There have been no trouble codes.

 

Can any one tell me where the fuel filter is located? I have heard that it is in the tank and can only be changed by a GM Tech.

 

I am thinking that I might have a dirty injector - any thoughts? It does idle rough at times but not all the time. It also stumbled a bit once today.

Posted

Low tire pressure, or out of alignment causing excess drag. In your post you say 10-11 pulling your TT then it says 8 TT is it 8 now after the bad MPG's? Change in driving habits or routes? You can try unhooking the battery to see if there is a change. Resetting the PCM can put it back to factory itnstead of its learned behavior, tailored to your driving style. It could have been something failed too, plug wire or plug... Simple things are not infallible. I'd say take it to the dealer and let them look at it though I doubt they'll find anything.

Posted
Wife or girlfriend putting on some weight maybe? J/K

 

Thanks, no one wanted to say it but... :lol: . Clean the MAFsensor,unhook the trailer,go to the gym? :lol:

Posted

Nice try on the weight factor :lol: - actually both the DW and I have lost about 80 lbs between the two of us.

 

What I was trying to get across is that the MPG dropped in all stages of my truck's usage - towing, hy, and in town. Although I have not done that much hy driving lately. But both intown and towing have decreased by 3 MPG or so.

 

I have checked the usual suspects - tire pressure, air filter, dragging brakes. Which leaves the fuel system - filter, pump, injectors etc. I am right around 18,000 mi.

Posted

I remeber experiencing worse mileage when using off brand gasoline, never figured out why. I led myself to beleive that the off brand gas was a cheaper grade and used it up faster. I don't know, still puzzeled here. Like for me, I'll notice using Sunoco gas seems to last longer between fill ups, and has alot more pep.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...