R-u-s-t....!

[dougg01]

2001 1500 'Burb 4wd not in a hi-salt area.

 

The front and rear bumpers are heavily rusted on the backside. Did GM forget to coat the back with something. The rust is penatrating and will go through if I don't do something. Is there a TSB or recall on this...?

 

Also....the lower, rear 1/4 panel. I have rust through on the external panel. Drains are clear and the rust is NOT at the bottom of the panel as you'd expect. It's about 1/2 way up that lower panel. I removed the body plugs and got a good look at it and it is rusting from the inside out. I had initially thought the rust was coming from rock chips, but most of those are along the bottom edge and seem to be free from rust.

 

This sucks. Any recalls on this...?

 

I don't think it's a candidate for a patch panel yet, but need to neutralize the rust. How do I do this when access to the backside of the panel is so restricted...? I could cut the inner panel for access then cover it back up, but that might not be necessary if someone here has another plan.

 

TIA...

[wlvrn1215]

nope.....unless you have an extended warranty for rust through.

[Irv]

If you have a Rust Check/Krown place in your location, in my opinion it is the only thing out there that will completely stop or at least help with rust.

 

I just got my 09 done a few hrs ago, just like I did with my 97 when I first purchased it.

I got asked all the time what year my truck was and people couldn't believe it was a 97!

Granted I do look after my stuff and washed it regularily, including spraying fresh water under the body panels quite often too.

 

Well worth the money imo and I tell people all the time, where can you get a $150 dollar body/paint job?

http://www.rustcheck.com/

[mipsco1]

my grampa has been having his 1982 caddy krowned for as long as i can remember and his car looks brand new. I would highly recomend it to anyone and plan on getting mine done when i go to bc this year(closest krown dealer is 800 klm)

[mipsco1]

How do I do this when access to the backside of the panel is so restricted...? I could cut the inner panel for access then cover it back up, but that might not be necessary if someone here has another plan.

 

I know with the krown they drill small holes in spots you will never see then cap them off.

[splat10]

My 99 silverado bed panels are all bubled up and rusted. I think there was a poor coating process at hte facotry at that time. I see a ton of trucks around here with bad rust problems. I think the got it sorted by 03 or so. those little bubbles on the 1/4 are goingt oturn into a huge patch of rust eventually (a year or so). I've given up on mine and am just goingto let it rot. looks awful but i don't care. the money in my pocket is better.

[JNG]

Getting my '09 "Krowned" on Monday...

[pm26]

I own several mid 80's Mercedes cars and I was surprised to find out upon removing door panels to replace some parts, that the inside of the doors were heavily coated with some kind of heavy, wax like rustproofing material from the factory. The bottoms of the door skins are coated to a height of about eight inches. Not a speck of rust so far on these 25 year old car doors, and still shiny original paint. Of course, it is likely that my cars were garage kept by previous owners and they are not rust belt cars.

 

This is something GM should be doing to their vehicles when they are made.

[pm26]

When I bought my '06 Silverado, the first thing I did was to coat the folded bottom seams along the doors and hood with CRC corrosion inhibitor spray. It is a wax like rustproofing compound that stays pliable but coats everything and keeps moisture out. The problem with the body seams on GM trucks is that the bottom door edges are only primed when they are folded over, so any moisture that will seep in will eventually cause rust. Pirmer, being porous, is a very poor coating to prevent moisture from seeping down to the metal.

 

Now that I think about it, I should probably remove all four door inner panels and spray this corrosion inhibitor stuff along the bottoms of doors and let it bleed through the drain holes and also coat the bottoms of the door skins on the inside. I should probably spray this stuff on the inside of the bumpers too, but to do this right, you need to completely remove the bumpers.

 

 

How hard is it to remove the door panels on these trucks?

 

Why is GM being so cheap? Just how much money would some rustpoofing material applied at the factory cost them? It seems stupid that one should have to remove the door panels and bumpers to properly rust proof a new vehicle.

 

All you need is one can of CRC corrosion inhibitor, available at most hardware and marine stores for about $ 6 a can.

[Irv]

When I bought my '06 Silverado, the first thing I did was to coat the folded bottom seams along the doors and hood with CRC corrosion inhibitor spray. It is a wax like rustproofing compound that stays pliable but coats everything and keeps moisture out. The problem with the body seams on GM trucks is that the bottom door edges are only primed when they are folded over, so any moisture that will seep in will eventually cause rust. Pirmer, being porous, is a very poor coating to prevent moisture from seeping down to the metal.

 

Now that I think about it, I should probably remove all four door inner panels and spray this corrosion inhibitor stuff along the bottoms of doors and let it bleed through the drain holes and also coat the bottoms of the door skins on the inside. I should probably spray this stuff on the inside of the bumpers too, but to do this right, you need to completely remove the bumpers.

 

 

How hard is it to remove the door panels on these trucks?

 

Why is GM being so cheap? Just how much money would some rustpoofing material applied at the factory cost them? It seems stupid that one should have to remove the door panels and bumpers to properly rust proof a new vehicle.

 

All you need is one can of CRC corrosion inhibitor, available at most hardware and marine stores for about $ 6 a can.

 

If you have access to a can or 2 of Rust Check or Krown there is no need to remove the door panels, just spray inside your drain holes and do both sides (left & right) These products have a creeping agent and the best time to do them is in the warm/hot temps of summer as they tend to flow/creep better.

 

P.S. anyone living in my neck of the woods (Durham Region) or if you don't mind driving a bit, should check out the Rust Check shop on Bloor St. in Oshawa, they did an unbelievable job, maybe even better when I did my own vehicles, and I am pretty particular!

[rogerf]

Why is GM being so cheap? Just how much money would some rustpoofing material applied at the factory cost them? It seems stupid that one should have to remove the door panels and bumpers to properly rust proof a new vehicle.

 

All you need is one can of CRC corrosion inhibitor, available at most hardware and marine stores for about $ 6 a can.

The body man at my dealer recommended ordinary WD-40. Simply spray into the door/tailgate drain holes and let gravity do the rest. Don't overlook the cab corners, rocker panels and rear fender lips. Usually do this once a year in early spring after thoroughly rinsing the salt out with water. Appears to stop the worst of the problems.