Pinion Seals

[the hammer]

Quick question:

 

I have leaking font and rear pinion seals on my truck, need to replace the seals.

 

I need to know a rough estimate of torque used on the font and rear pinion nut, i.e. the big one you have to know its torque setting when you replace it. I just don't want to start out at 20 ft-lbs and work my way up by increments of 1 ft/lbs til I find it. I just need a good starting torque number so I don't spend an hour trying to find the correct torque.

 

Any help is appreciated.

[jrrod2004]

I'll see what I can dig up

[jrrod2004]

Apparently you have to measure when taking off the nut:

 

 

Tighten

Tighten the pinion nut, in small increments, as needed, until the torque required in order to rotate the pinion is 0.40-0.57 N·m (3-5 lb in) greater than the torque recorded during removal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

xTooltipElement

Service Information

2006 Chevrolet Chevy C Silverado - 2WD | Sierra, Silverado (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 867777

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Drive Pinion Flange/Yoke and/or Oil Seal Replacement (All Except 9.75 Inch Axle)

Tools Required

• J 8614-01 Flange/Pulley Holding Tool

 

• J 22388 Rear Axle Pinion Oil Seal Installer - Rear (8.6 inch, 9.5 inch axle)

 

• J 44414 Rear Axle Pinion Oil Seal Installer (10.5 inch, 11.5 inch axle)

 

Removal Procedure

Important: Observe and mark the positions of all the driveline components, relative to the propeller shaft and the axles, prior to disassembly. These components include the propeller shafts, drive axles, pinion flanges, output shafts, etc. Reassemble all the components in the exact places in which you removed the parts. Follow any specifications, torque values, and any measurements made prior to disassembly.

 

Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.

Remove the tire and wheel assemblies (8.6 inch, 9.5 inch axles). Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.

Remove the rear brake calipers (8.6 inch, 9.5 inch axles). Refer to Rear Brake Caliper Replacement.

Remove the brake rotors (8.6 inch, 9.5 inch axles). Refer to Rear Brake Rotor Replacement.

Remove the axle shafts (10.5 inch, 11.5 inch axle). Refer to Rear Axle Shaft and/or Gasket Replacement.

Remove the propeller shaft from the vehicle.

• For vehicles equipped with the one piece propeller shaft, refer to One-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement.

 

• For vehicles equipped with the two piece propeller shaft, refer to Two-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement.

 

 

 

 

 

Using an inch-pound torque wrench, and record measure the amount of torque required to rotate the pinion. This will give the combined preload for the following components:

• The pinion bearings

 

• The pinion pilot bearing (10.5 inch axle)

 

• The pinion oil seal

 

• The differential case bearings

 

• The axle bearings (8.6 inch, 9.5 inch axles)

 

• The axle seals (8.6 inch, 9.5 inch axles)

 

 

 

 

 

Place a reference mark on the pinion and the pinion yoke.

 

 

 

Important: DO NOT re-use the pinion nut. Replace with new only.

 

Using the J 8614-01 , remove the pinion nut and washer. Discard the nut.

 

 

 

Using the J 8614-2 (2), J 8614-3 (3) and the J 8614-01 (1), remove the pinion yoke.

Using a suitable tool, remove the pinion oil seal.

Installation Procedure

 

 

 

 

Using the J 22388 (8.6 inch, 9.5 inch axles) or the J 44414 (10.5 inch, 11.5 inch axle), install the pinion oil seal.

Apply sealant GM P/N 12346004 (Canadian P/N 10953480) to the splines of the pinion yoke.

Aligning the reference marks, install the pinion yoke.

Notice: Refer to Pinion Flange/Yoke Installation Notice in the Preface section.

 

Using a soft faced hammer, tap the pinion yoke on the drive pinion until a few threads of the drive pinion are showing.

Install the washer and a NEW pinion nut.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.

 

 

 

 

 

Important: If the rotating torque is exceeded, the pinion will have to be removed and a new collapsible spacer installed.

 

Using the J 8614-01 , tighten the pinion nut.

Tighten

Tighten the nut until the pinion end play is just taken up. Rotate the pinion while tightening the nut to seat the bearings.

 

 

 

 

 

Using an inch pound torque wrench, measure the rotating torque of the pinion and compare this measurement recorded during removal.

Tighten

Tighten the nut in small increments, as needed, until the rotating torque is 0.40-0.57 N·m (3- 5 lb in) greater than the rotating torque recorded during removal.

 

Once the specified torque is obtained, rotate the pinion several times to ensure the bearings have seated. Recheck the rotating torque and adjust if necessary.

Install the propeller shaft.

• For vehicles equipped with the one piece propeller shaft, refer to One-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement.

 

• For vehicles equipped with the two piece propeller shaft, refer to Two-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement.

 

Install the axle shafts (10.5 inch, 11.5 inch axle). Refer to Rear Axle Shaft and/or Gasket Replacement.

Install the brake rotors (8.6 inch, 9.5 inch axles). Refer to Rear Brake Rotor Replacement.

Install the brake calipers (8.6 inch, 9.5 inch axles). Refer to Rear Brake Caliper Replacement.

Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.

Inspect and add axle lubricant to the axle housing, if necessary. Refer to Rear Axle Lubricant Level Inspection.

Remove the support and lower the vehicle.

© 2010 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I will keep looking

[Matt_]

read those instructions carefully!

 

you dont want to torque up the pinion nut!

 

basically you want to measure the rotational force using an in-lb guaged torque wrench (not a click style) to see how much force it takes to keep constant rotation on the pinion.

 

then when you reassemble you only tighten the pinion until there is no more lateral play and check the rotational torque. tighten the pinion nut in SMALL increments until the original torque reading is met.

 

if you go too far you'll need a new crush sleeve

[the hammer]

thanks you guys, I knew this would be very specific and touchy, am off to sears to get an inch-pound torque wrench now. this is gonna be interesting!

[jrrod2004]

read those instructions carefully!

 

you dont want to torque up the pinion nut!

 

basically you want to measure the rotational force using an in-lb guaged torque wrench (not a click style) to see how much force it takes to keep constant rotation on the pinion.

 

then when you reassemble you only tighten the pinion until there is no more lateral play and check the rotational torque. tighten the pinion nut in SMALL increments until the original torque reading is met.

 

if you go too far you'll need a new crush sleeve

 

 

and now you know why I am not a mechanic

[Matt_]

thanks you guys, I knew this would be very specific and touchy, am off to sears to get an inch-pound torque wrench now. this is gonna be interesting!

 

no prob.

 

make sure you get the right kind... you dont want the one that clicks, you need the one that has the needle gauge that you read.

 

and you're not reading the torque to get it moving, that will be higher. you're reading the torque required to keep constant rotational speed

[the hammer]

I just want to double check on my thought of what to remove before checking the rotational torque of the pinion nut.

 

1. Will I be ok measuring the baseline rotational torque with the wheels still on, or do I have to remove the wheels, or the wheels and brakes?

 

2. Do i need to drain the diff fluid?

 

Rememeber, I will be doing front adn rear pinion seals. I noticed in the Wiki write-up on replacing the front pinion seal there is no mention of removing the wheels or brakes, and also no mention of draining the diff. fluid.

[Matt_]

For the rear, you should actually remove the axle shafts to get the reading.

 

For the front... i cheat a bit and just remove the wheels/brakes but you should un-bolt the CV axles from the diff. You can take the reading with the fluid still in the front diff.

[the hammer]

Well dangit. Has anyone reading this topic got instructions for removing the rear axle shafts? Hope I don't have to start a new topic.

[Matt_]

it's pretty easy... take wheels/brakes off, take the diff cover off, rotate carrier until you can get the center pin bolt out, rotate carrier again to take out center pin, push axles towards carrier and remove C-clips, pull axles out.

 

Reverse for re-installation.

[Black02Silverado]

Don't know if this will help or not but it was up in the Tech Wiki section.

[the hammer]

sorry for so many q's on this one, but I have never had to tackle the rear diff parts before so you got to walk through the parts with me:

 

 

On my rear I have drums, so how do I get all that off and what are the torgue numbers for those bolts holding the drum hub/brace thing on (4 of them each side I think?)

 

What is the carrier? Is that the locking diff part?

 

What is the center pin bolt? Where is it?

 

Where are the c-clips?

[Matt_]

oh man... i've had too many beers to even think about typing all that up....

 

drums just slide off, don't need to remove any bolts or anything (although sometimes they need to be persuaded or the brake shoes need to be un-adjusted for clearance).

 

For the diff stuff, trying searching videos on youtube. Without pictures and/or video anything we type will just look like jibberish.