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Rotated my Falkens last night. Had my junior assistant overseeing the work. Lots of “what’s this, what’s that,” and “why did you just swear dad.” Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork

I am not a salesman. I am an idiot like everybody else that had a vibration and have been reading these forums and watched a bunch of videos. I tried a few things with no success and found a solution that works for my truck. I did try COR's thing about driving in M5 but the vibration wasn't as bad but the transmission shifting was not pleasant. Just like the other 832 pages of this thread, take the info you want but don't send out bad vibes you troll.

Changed my GMC emblems today.

I can relate. Back in the day when she was 15 and I was 18 she would always asked why I was doing what to cars. I laugh and give her a story. A few years later after we were married a hot rod mag showed up. I’m thinking wow nice present. Nooo she was getting educated. She eventually went from cars are transportation to an enthusiast. Good thing, I had to drive 3/4 - one ton trucks for work. She drove the performance cars. It was awhile before we could have extra cars. My kids grew up being haul around in modified Impalas, Novas, until all the kids were in school and the wife started working. Trucks evolve to extend cabs and crew cabs to hauling teenagers and she started driving Z28s and other sports cars. Her car goes through tires and brakes quicker than mine. I helped create a monster. Is funny when we test drive cars for her watching the salesman sliding around in the back seat. I warn them, but they don’t listen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Taken at the Eglin AFB Armanent Musuem

i kind of understand under certain circumstances why someone would want to disable afm, but mostly it's very unnoticeable and what the add doesn't mention is your increased fuel consumption... now this autostart thing on the other hand has me bonkers. Just not sure it's $80 bonkers though.

A buddy at work just bought a trail boss. We both started them up in the parking lot. Hearing them run side by side, mine is Definitely much louder and has a deeper tone to it with flapper open and screens covered. Especially if you give it some gas. I think the difference is much more noticeable outside the truck. After a week or so, I am still happy my $20 investment. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Cool pic. Hang on to it.

Papa's got a brand new bag

Worked for me Impressive Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

2019 AT4, Readylift 2" front level and 3" blocks in rear to keep a small rake... Vision 18x8.5 0mm offset w same tires Duratracs 275 65 R18

Another picture from today. Im betting they will fit on the AT4, im putting the 1.5” motofab level this weekend.

Nope, all US units.... My boss does a TON of driving for work, and replaces his truck every 5-7 years, as his mileage is quite high. The body and interior are immaculate. The engine does have a little noise when you first start it up, until the oil gets moving, but nothing very bad. All in all it is a great truck. Better than the old one I drove, 2003 Silverado 1500 LT with 174k miles - still have that one and will pass it on to my youngest son who will start driving in 6 months....lol. I know every mile on that one and it is still nice as well. This one is just nicer inside. I don't complain about any of them, as they are company trucks and I don't have to pay for anything. Quite the deal as far as I am concerned. Since they take care of me, I like to take care of the trucks and don't mind working on them when I need to. Figure that is a fair trade off.

True Tyler, any amount of lift will give stress. I was talking about the angle on the cv and balljoints that often you will see when people run those leveling kits (2-3”). From this thread it’s been proven the strut lift mitigates that problem, and in my case the 0.5” doesn’t exacerbate it. Does a 7” lift to fit 35’s come with a steering rack and wheel bearings?

Here is the final one. With the flapper clamped open and the screens covered. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone else this crazy? Added Bose emblems to the rear doors to match the factory ones in front. It kinda bugged me how bland the back door panels were. Figured it was a little thing I could do to help. The emblems are cheap on eBay and are the same part from the K2s. Unfortunately the speaker grill holes are “fake” and not all the way through. So I cut the posts on back of the badges down to little nubs that still locate the emblem level. Then I measured to sort of match the front, made a little template and hot-glued them on. Evening boredom solved.

She needs a bath but the silver still looks clean without!! Way easier to take care of than my 16 midnight edition was!!

Installed Amp power steps today...

Traded my 16 in a little while back for a 19 AT4. 1.5" motofab, 275/65/20 Ko2, GM intake, flowmaster 40 series, lund window visors, 20% front tint and windshield brow, ronin stuby antenna, some more stuff to come.

Here is the after on my truck with flapper open and all screens covered. I think it sounds louder in person. Cold start probably 60 degrees out after sitting all night. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Old tires 275/65/18 DURATRAC 45.8 lbs New tires 325/65/18 Ridge Grappler 74.2 lbs Fitment is flushy BUT 1lb unsprung > 3-4lb sprung ? . I might upgrade to lighter rotors down the road ? MPG has dicreased from 22.2 to 17-18.5 ?

That green is a great color! Curious on how hard it is to keep clean? Great looking truck!

How can i get in touch with phil?

mine has tons of options...need to add a few minor annoying things but for 35k otd it's the best w/t I have owned. At least you get to drive one at work, you prolly drive a tundra or prius at home

295/70r18 Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires, 34.3” diameter with no trimming needed. No level as well.

You are really blowing this out of proportion. I am sure they will refund you if you are really that upset about it. I never had any issues with mine. I already replaced mine and sent the "bad" unit back. It was all free. Chill out.

Last: 2009 Silverado 24 Nov 2018 75,709 miles 6 quarts Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W-30 full-synthetic motor oil Last AC Delco PF48 (NOT PF48E e-core!) oil filter from my cache. 9% remaining on Oil Life Monitor. Also greased 2 tie rod end zerks with Valvoline full synthetic grease. Tapped out AC Delco A3181C air filter. (replace every 33k miles) And did last rotation on worn out factory OEM Bridgestone Dueler A/T RH-S tires before replacing with Dueler H/L Alenza Plus in same size. Uses less oil with Quaker State Ultimate Durability than it did with Pennzoil Platinum. Next up: 2009 Silverado 25 May 2019 estimated ~80,000 miles 6 quarts new Shell Gas Truck all-mileage full-synthetic 5W-30 motor oil Wix 57060 oil filter estimated 0% left on OLM Always grease 2 tie rod end zerks at every oil change and tap out air filter. Will use Mobil1 full synthetic grease for next manual grease gun cartridge replacement. Used approx. 2 quarts in between oil changes (infamous AFM oil usage problem; TSB performed, AFM turned off at 36,000 miles). Hoping it will use even less oil with Shell Gas Truck (similar additive pack as to their diesel oil, to clean fouled piston oil control rings) than it did with Quaker State UD.

That's a true 35 inch tire. Nitto website states diameter is 35.08 inches and 11.26 inches wide. That's amazing if you're not rubbing, and would be the largest tire that I've seen posted on a stock AT4 without rubbing. Looks great.

90,000 Mile Service. At 74,000 we put new rotors and pads in all four holes. Front rotors are warped. Of course the supplier is out at the moment so for another day in the near future. Their not sure they will back the buy. I'm sure that if they don't there won't be a second buy. 15K rotors and $700 cost for 4 corners? NOT. Oil change. Not just volume but type. Mobil 1 5W30 Extended Performance. AMSOIL was my intention but a scheduling dictated other. K & N filter too. Grrr. What a mess buying has become. "I'll sell ya we have, not what you want". Rumor has it this one does have some PAO content and the idea is slowing the consumption via higher NOACK. It's gets one try and if it doesn't get it done. I'm done with it. Used about 3/4 quart in 5K this time. Okay we retired the Michelin Latitude Tour's and mounted a fresh set of Continental Cross Contact LX 20's. Michelins were down to 5/32" and even as could be. Still quite and working well in the wet and snow. These had been a great tire but they priced themselves out of the game. Bought the Conti's for $10 a tire less money WITH shipping saving roughly $100. We have Continental's on her Buick and she loves them. Happy wife.... Then I took the Terrain for a 150 scuff in and feel assessment. I was fresh off a similar run just a day before on the Michelin's so pretty easy comparison to make. I know, worn vs fresh but hold that thought till you hear the results. The dB A scale meter says they are equal both sets sounding off at roughly 70 dB A. (cabin noise) What the meter can't tell you is the frequency which is huge as I learned. The Continental has a much lower frequency that the Michelin. Actually makes sense as the tread depth difference is like the difference in a tuning forks leg length or could be the pattern. I tolerate the lower frequency much better. Neither tire "booms" like a basketball. Good. The biggest difference is that over various surface textures. While there is a fair amount of difference between say, grooved cement and blacktop for the Michelin the Continental tire hardly changes pitch. One exception. On grooved cement grooves with your direction are nearly silent but across you path they emit a quite but high frequency 'sing'. Few would notice the difference. Quite is a big deal for me. Ride. The Continental has a firmer but less harsh quality about it. It feels more connected to the drivers input as well. You can actually tell the difference between the shocks response and the tires response to an upset. That might bother some but I liked it. It's quite, responsive and comfortable. What we have come to expect from the brand. Side note. We have run Eldorado, Firestone, General, Michelin, Continental and Bridgestone tires all to or past 90K miles with room to spare in tread. Some 40K warranty some 70K. All worked quite well. I'm thinking life has more to do with service and driver than brand and compound (within reason). The two in bold type are the quietest of the group.

Thanks to everyone who helped me pull this off. After watching the videos this really wasn't a hard install. It just took a little patients. I ended up finding a set of steps, off an 2018 Denali, on facebook marketplace of all places. I started to put together a parts list of all the wire, wire terminals, connectors and tools. From there I decided it was easier, for me, to buy the chassis wiring harness and stripped out what I needed. It was really easy once you started and all the original mounting hardware is already mounted on the harness. It ended up looking like a stock install. Again, thanks everyone for all your help! Original Wiring Harness: Stripping the harness: Wiring harness completely stripped. Ready for loom: My 2017 Silverado LT 4x4:

Bluetooth driveshafts for the win!

Yep. Not just making up, but possibly fixing it would seem. My aftermarket piece appears to be WAY more substantial than the OE piece.