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I have not had nearly the success with the mechanical that my father and his brothers had, but I do continue to have a record better than double that of Joe Average. Much of that has nothing to do with my ability. Uncle Bob's million-mile flathead for example was the result of a time when moving the powertrain from one decade to the next was about as easy as buttering your bread. That motor was born in a 36 "C" cab, moved to 40 something pickup, into a series of 50 Fords then back to a 37-half ton. After accomplishing the million miles was moved to an engine stand where it became a generator driver and finally a running motor in the school engine lab. When he retired, it was discarded by the school running as well as it did the day he bought it. Today the drive line is pretty much done when the body is done. OEMs got their way. Everything is disposable. Few things interchangeable. I sell a car when it quits moving or I get such a silly offer rationality insist I sell. I've had a few quit moving before 200K. Wrecked one and had one burn down. A few rotted out to an unsafe condition. While Joe Average gets 1.2% over the 200K mark I'm closer to 95% including the wrecks and rot out. Of those I got over the 200K mark I sold to others who went on to drive them to the 300K mark. A few others over 250K before meeting a tree, pole or deer. Have a Honda right now over 238K that is wrestling with rot but not yet defeated. LOL. Point is we all work against a stacked deck and yet, you can still beat the house if you care to. Just takes a different set of skills and dogged determination. My current projects, Dizzy and Pepper, are those I am honing my rust and rot prevention skills on. The drivelines are already in the bag. I continue to hone my operating skill with every mile. Pepper has been exceptional. I've spent zero $$$$ in breakdown maintenance. About $300 in premature part failures. The remarkable money not spent on Pepper has come in the form of 'normal wear and tear' that has far exceeded the limits of normal. Because the OEM tires were not installed by my mechanic I did pay for R&B and all said and done, yes, I paid for the tire 2X. HOWEVER, I got 3X the service life from them as rated against the factory tire warranty of 40K. Brakes are going to go 250K or better at current wear rates. Part of that is driving style and highway miles but it is also constant attention to keeping slides free and greased. Keeping fluid changed. Battery is soon to cross 8 years' service life. Battery Tender during lulls in driving. Most miles are highway so many fewer starts than Joe Average. Wipers last forever due to my OCD windshield service. Most of my service requires zero money and just constant attention to detail. UAO is just a new tool in the box I'm learning to use and has already paid dividends.

Afterblow turns on the cabin air fan if you've been using AC when you turn off the truck to dry the evaporator coil and prevent mold/mildew buildup. It requires the dealer scan tool, and some dealers will do it for free while servicing your vehicle... some will want to charge 0.5hrs. Mine did it for free. Per GM: "Afterblow is a feature that dries the evaporator core by operating the blower motor after the engine is turned off. This reduces the amount of microbial growth that can create undesirable odors. The vehicle does not come equipped with the afterblow feature turned on. If the afterblow feature is required due to an odor concern, it must be turned on by reprogramming the HVAC control module, refer to Service Programming System (SPS) (See: Programming and Relearning) . After the HVAC control module has been programmed for afterblow, the following conditions must be met for afterblow to operate: The engine has been turned off for at least 32 minutes. The ambient air temperature is at least 21°C (70°F). The A/C compressor operated for more than 2 minutes. The system voltage is at least 12 volts. Once the above conditions have been met, the following sequence of events will occur: The blower motor will run for 20 seconds. The blower motor will be off for 10 minutes. The blower motor will run for and additional 20 seconds"

For all the L3B fans.....latest oil sample taken with great results but it had to be topped up with Renewable Lubricants 5w20 HD low ash because I was out of RLI. Look mom we stopped the aluminum wear. Still in SAE grade too. The RLI products are tough and made in America by Mom and Pop in Griggy OH. Currently has a fresh load of Havoline ProRs 5w30 which is working quite well in cold here. Thanks to Nick, site sponsor known as Black02Silverado for the ISO certified oil analysis service. Nick Mikitka Independent AMSOIL Dealer Synthetic Advantage LLC email: [email protected] Phone: 910-290-2371

When I had my Toyota they wanted to see you every 5K miles. But only changed the oil at 10. Basically they were charging 25$ for rotating your tires. And 40$ for oil changes. Usually the time you waited was the same. I told them their whole set up was screwy. Basically pay for tires twice through the cost of rotation. Discount tire does it for free. There’s really no logical thinking when it comes to automobiles. Me included.

Haha you and me both. I had to hit the road for work to pay for this thing and these are the pics I got today from my buddy doing the work. He knows this is killing me and he’s putting me through the torture of knowing it’s on the ground and not being able to see it haha. Oh well… I can see enough for now to know I won’t hate it lol. more pics to come!

Fuely is a better spot to compare: https://www.fuelly.com/car/chevrolet/silverado_1500?engineconfig_id=95&bodytype_id=&submodel_id= https://www.fuelly.com/car/chevrolet/silverado_1500?engineconfig_id=63&bodytype_id=&submodel_id= On top of that, the 2.7 has a lot more torque, and it comes on faster/lower. It feels much stronger around town than the 5.3 much like diesels do. In a 0 to 60 WOT haul, my money would be on the 5.3 as it still has more HP, but for actual driving and towing the 2.7 is better. Reliability/durability - yet to be seen, but so far so good.

Bilstein 5100's front and rear (trailboss part number) 24-309509 24-309516 Rough Country UCA for 3" lift Motofab rear 2" block with U-bolts +2.5" in the front +2.0" in the rear I know the pic shows otherwise, but I put the front strut circlips set to the middle position for .55" of lift. Wanted to maintain a touch of forward rake, and with the extra weight of the diesel it worked out perfect. This is the 3rd set of 5100's I have purchased (jeep life) so I knew what to expect. No, the ride is not smoother or a night and day difference. In fact it is a little firmer. But there is more steering response, and way less rebounding that happens over speed bumps or highway bridge sections. I also noticed much less side-to-side rocking that happens when I pull into the parking lot at work, which is a fairly steep diagonal transition that flexes out the suspension. Overall, a great purchase. My other vehicle is a 2004 WJ Grand Cherokee, and it is really nice working on a brand new truck where nothing is rusted or stuck!

Everyone comments on my 1993 7.3 NA diesel f-250 in town. Lots of offers to buy it, and lots of comments on what a great tow truck it is. The fact is I have towed some pretty crazy stuff with it……slowly. It is do to gearing and suspension. It had 185hp and 388ft lbs of torque new. My 2.7 trailboss kicks it’s butt power wise and comfort ect…. We are truly spoiled now a days.

Interesting that the water went up so high. Is this due to the colder months? At least the FD stayed down.

Took my '21 in for a free tire rotation and "after blow" activation. While they had it I mentioned some hard 2-1 downshifts and asked for the TSB to be applied. Service writer made no arguments and said they'd take care of it. Of course it took two trips since the first trip only confirmed I didn't have the 70C housing so "they had to order it". Two weeks later and another day at the dealer and I now have the lower temp t-stat. Can confirm steady state highway transmission temps are now about 154F vs. the previous 195F.

The faceplate. That radio faceplate that the screen, HVAC controls, etc. attach to is why. GM doesn't sell just the faceplate. They only sell the radio screen/faceplate assembly and only through GM approved Electronic Service Centers and not GM directly. All HD and some 1500s that are missing heated seats were built with non heated seat radio faceplates and don't have the holes present for the seat control switches. See below:

Hello, just signed up with these forums to be able to get in on this good convo. never been in a forum nor ever used social media so take er easy, ha. just finished my truck and am in the dialing in/finding my preferences/review phase. First truck ever and first time spending some hard earned cash to try and do things right the first time (in moderation, cuz the money tree wasn't flourishing, ha). Cuz I'm good at breaking things. I wanted to get some feedback from you folks as now would be the time to make any adjustments. here's the trucks stats: 2018 silverado, 5.3, 3.43 gearing (bought new) put 20 in wheels with leveling kit initially, but now that Ive learned more about off roading I wanted to go with more of a legit setup. I realize that the fox 2.0's are more practical for my application - light off roading but like i said Im good at getting in over my head when playing and without having multiple trucks to actually go out and drive and feel, I figured like my 16 yr old says, YOLO - you only live once. I blew too much money and went with the DSC's. I figured I would be happier down the road with an adjustable shock and a rebuildable one also. 1) 285/70r 17 - c load ( wanted to g with c load for a more forgiving side wall 2) black bear tune (stock acceleration was depressing, and was shocked when I learned about the price to lift a truck the right way- basically I didn't want to spend money to re gear this truck for bigger tires) (i do enjoy the tune, by the way. expensive but brings a smile to my face every time i accelerate, and got rid of AFM (V4 option), and the clunking when dow shifting) 3) fox 2.5 dsc front and rears from Accutune (waited 1 yr for these products) 4) deaver mini pack - progessive payload spring replacement, (lifts the rear approx 2 in) can remove bottom "stackers" for hight adj if needed. I wanted a rake for towing and or payload 5) UCA replacement - went with icon delta joint _they had sent the wrong part, so had to go with kryptonite during install but am second guessing krytponite at the point - will discuss in pics below other minor mods you can see in pics (ceramic coating, SDHQ skid plate) truck with wheels and tires with stock suspension still stock. Wanted to keep a rake on the truck with new setup so front tires aren't "floating" when pulling or hauling my dirtbike with loaded bed. truck after new suspension is installed, sits 2 in taller in rear and taller in front with rake (not sure lift height diff in front) but i wanted max function with front coilovers so they are set as such according to accutune and fox which is 18.66 in from top hat to bottom bolt of coilover. These coilovers have a 0-3 in adjustability, I beleive fox says max height for function is approx 2.25in. Rear DSC adjusters are not easy to get to. You have to lie on the ground under truck. Reac up to top of resi and adjust still have to go back to install shop for re torque after 1k miles. went out and tried her out 3 passes (wide open (soft), medium, and max firm setting) , low and high speed each pass. pretty pot holed up dried mud farm road. after second pass, I noticed 90 degree angle on control arm was starting to eat into resi hose had to put a temp fix on it icon delta joint was ordered to be used but they sent the wrong part so for a quick fix and me being impatient after waiting a year for suspension, i went with the install shops quick fix of the kryptonite UCA. but looks like a tubular UCA would glide against the hose as opposed to eat into it. fox says with the resi hose being where its at, it limits control arm movement. hmmmm.... me no likey. So thats where im at overall, the verdict on the review of the suspension feel and drivability is not out yet. I wont comment too much as I haven't used mine much. definitely not long arm travel like a side by side. And it seems that faster = smoother over the rougher stuff. some of the guys I work with have similar setups. So once mine is dialed in. I will let them drive my truck as I will drive theirs for comparison. But it will not be an apple to apples comparison. 4 runners, diesel setups, 2.0's, etc....... I'm curious of your input and feedback. Please and thanks

I just think that if customer service was so important to them that they have a "team" that also monitors social media, they could at least try and provide resolutions or useful advice in the thread. That would be way more helpful to other members on the forum.@GMCustomerService any response to this???

well, go figure. Rookie moves. technical difficulties. when I post them, I can see them. Hmmmm.... the photos must be in the wrong format?? Thanks for the heads up.

See if we could move the fleet away from Diesel. We can't due to the type of loads & the mountainous terrain we drive in. But we have figured out a work around that will make our lives better all around. So my vehicle no longer needs to be a full size truck. That really opens up the opportunities. Just need to make sure if the next vehicle has heated and ventilated seats, we hire a good "seat sniffer".

Seats are "ventilated", no doubt a godsend for those suffering from excessive flatulence and something to watch out for when buying a used vehicle.

This is correct. No need to look any further. -

295/70/r18 KO2's on stock AT4 rims, no lift, no level. She rubs but barely at full lock when going up/down an incline on angle. I do have the added on mud flaps which is what they're hitting. With them removed no rubbing at all.

The consumers ultimately head up GM’s beta testing department.

Lucky mileage

I’ve been reading about multiple lawsuits over lifter failures. A little or a lot depends if it’s you. I heard the same BS with the 5.7 diesels clunky steering column and bad speedometer s. It usually comes to a head down the road.

This is correct. The screen you want to switch to (Trip 1 in my case) needs to be up for a couple of minutes. Then it will default to that screen next time you press right.

Clearing the codes worked. I guess I'll disconnect the battery the next time I do any work on the truck.

The first saleable 24's were built last week.

Basically wired the three resistors, heatshrink wrapped them, tied with a zip tie internally and 3D printed a plug for the end. I made an ebay link if anyone wants to buy one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234785652556 7pinplug.stl

Forgot to update that the window is in and we had some real heavy rain and no leaks -thanks GMC for correcting this problem

If this is the 2nd time it's leaked since they "fixed" it. Push to have it replaced. Mine was replaced right after the fix was done and it leaked the day I picked it up. The dealer had a glass replacement shop do the work and it's been good since.

RESOLVED - I removed the inside cover panel of the bed gate to access the wiring and found the plug to the camera system had been disconnected. Reconnected the plug and the camera system is working perfectly. It's been about a week with no issues.

Love my new off road steps. I bought from a guy locally taking his off. They are more than 2" better ground clearance than the stock ones that came on my 2020 AT4 Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Front axles. GM FRONT AXLE AAM FRONT AXLE

Suppliers. Some axles (front and rear) on the T1 1/2 ton pickups are made by AAM, some are made by GM. Both have different fluid requirements as well. GM started to produce in house axles again due to capacity/quality concerns from the K2 program. The AAM ones both front and rear look physically different than the GM ones. See my next post for visuals.

Here is our Sierra 1500 with 33" tires and 3" lift. Rides and handles fine with NO rubs.

I've always ran my trucks in 4wd auto. No issues at all. I've noticed that the gas mileage isnt really affected either based on my testing.

I replied back to that bot and got banned! I hope the same does not happen to you bro. I too saw the post as useless and ridiculous. Makes no sense man. It was some random oh that's just the normal Kind of response.