Daverado

Ride better where? In corners? Not likely. Indeed they do flex (roll) more. Stiffer tires are far more confidence inspiring on the road. That's a better ride IMHO. -Daver

lol the second I saw the grille I thought . o O ( orange lipstick! )

On higher trim T1 trucks the overall wheel/tire size has increased by about 2", so you are about break-even on sidewall size with 2" bigger wheels. Side-wall size probably contributes the most difference in ride quality and comfort given the same tire model and width. If you stick with 20" wheels on the newer truck with the larger overall diameter, then it will look and ride more similar to the old truck with 18s.

They are DOT approved. So yes, they are DOT road worthy.

Not the working person, the lazy one with casual disregard for the safety of others.

4WD can't help you brake and steer on ice like proper winter tires can.

Wow, lots to unravel there but I guess right from the top it'll be off-topic. Ok, salesmen are clueless, your a$$ and brain disagree, tires are a problem. You can't handle understeer, and you think a heavier front end will fix that? ? Do you even physics bro? Still not sure what you're trying to say about the engine here. It's hard to find one? Lots of doom-saying with comparisons to the V4/6/8, and other unrelated issues. Really just a bunch of rambling FUD here. Great technology implemented, BUT OMG it was designed by the same company that has designed both amazing and terrible engines in the past. Don't buy this engine because something might go wrong with it and then you're stuck with it! LOL. If your concerns were actually based on something substantial... anything at all really, it would be so much easier to take you seriously. Who are you preaching to anyway? You're in the wrong thread bro. You come across like the kind of guy that walks into a friends house and criticizes their decor until they ask you to leave and not be friends anymore.

I used to run 16"/33" BFG AT/KOs year-round on a Tahoe, but then I got a lowered Sierra and ran 20" Hankook Ventus RH06 summer and 20" Blizzak DM V1s in the winter. Pretty good combination for handling year-round. On this one I still have the crap no-season 22" Alenzas I run in summer, but I got a set of 275/60R20 Duratracs for winter. They do well. The Alenzas would probably do ok in 4-auto full-time, but I didn't want to run the bigger rims in winter either.

Wrong thread. Read the title. -Daver

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It did seem well-intentioned to me as well, but his approach is way off base. "Look I see something different here everyday, what do you think about that" is a much more productive approach than "everyone else is wrong you really need to listen to me instead" and then spouting bad information. Even when you're right you're going to annoy a bunch of the people you're supposedly trying to help. The real savings is paying off whichever loan has the highest interest rate first. Doesn't matter what it's attached to, it's just borrowed money costing you money. Having grown up in the 80s when interest rates were so much higher, these 3% rates feel like free money to me. I keep refinancing my house to borrow more and avoid paying it off, that's a huge source of leverage to invest. Real estate values increasing in my area pays off a higher % of the house than my payments do. My bank's savings interest rate is nearly as high as my mortgage, even if I don't invest in something riskier for a higher return. Just my $0.02

A couple of other interesting things to see there in those numbers... Paying $866/month vs. $975/mo you are "saving" $654 total over 6 months. But after 6 months your "ENDING BALANCE" is also $496 less. You own more of the vehicle after 6 months even though you paid less. The difference in interest cost is the combination of those two factors, how much more you've paid and how much more you still have to pay for that 6 months. So $654 more in payments plus $496 additional in what you still owe gives you that same $1150 figure you get in the "CUMULATIVE INTEREST" difference. If you sell the vehicle (or refinance), that $500 is in your pocket now. I doubt finance managers are required to have a finance degree/certificate/whatever education or understand this stuff honestly. They have $5k software to do it for them after all lol. Most of the ones I've dealt with were just glorified salespeople there to sell rust, paint, and fabric protection and extended warranties after the other salespeople are done selling me the floormats.

So.. one comment I will make on this.. First, yes you do get a second hard pull on your credit for the new loan, and that is not ideal. You also get a pretty hefty paid-in-full loan account on your credit report in your favor though. As long as you're good at paying bills on time lol. I think the benefit of that second loan for the same money probably balances out or even outweighs the credit check, but I am only speculating on that. It's only six months after all. If you don't have plans to be using your credit for other things in the near future, that paid-off loan should benefit your score longer than the credit check will ding it I would guess. -Daver

See here's my problem... I think you're not doing the math, or you're not being honest. And that's what this thread is really about. There's no way you can insist the interest difference is only $150-200. Because that depends on the details of the loan. I financed 100% of my HC. $66,425. The dealer offered 6.99% financing. I got 3.24% from my local credit union. The financing rebate at the time was $1000. The math isn't complicated, in fact websites like https://www.bankrate.com/calculators/auto/auto-loan-calculator.aspx will do it for you. Total interest in 6 months: 6.99%: $2240 3.24%: $1035 Difference: $1205. Doing the math tells me that's a lot more than $150-200. So you really need to stop spreading your misinformation. Dealers aren't doing anyone any favors here. NO PENALTY FOR EARLY REFINANCE!

The speed limit data is always provided by the map, not by the satellite signal. GPS satellites don't know or care where you are, they only know where they are, and broadcast beacons that tell your GPS computer what time it is where the satellite is. Your GPS computer times beacons from multiple satellites to triangulate where you are and place your position onto a pretty map provided by your SD card. Without a map you can only know your location in latitude/longitude/elevation. Hiking GPSs are useful this way because they can still track you and backtrack you out even when the place you're at isn't on any map. The more satellites you can receive signals from, the better your computer will be able to calculate your precise position. Two dashes means at the time the map was assembled for your device data on the speed limit for your current road segment wasn't available, or was trimmed out to save storage on the map media. I see it often enough on a truck that came with the high cluster, nothing to do with the retrofit I assume. -Daver

Same for me. Cover has a gasket that allows the gate to open and close even when the cover is latched, and I've never had a problem with the gate opening when I ask it to. Really sounds like something is wrong with your gate. Make them fix it! Good luck! -Daver

lol you just identified probably the primary reason for their popularity.. their resemblance to smoothies. Especially when you've got a retromod.. older truck with bigger brakes, high performance tires, etc. Being steel they can be trivially painted any color you like and drilled for mounting vintage/replica/etc hubcaps on. I was tempted to put a set of these on my lowered GMT800 Denali but all the dealer guys I talked to were lazy and didn't want to help a guy out. My issue with modern black wheels is that they have so little character IMO. Mainly the glossy black. I'm still sad my own matte black wheels didn't fit this winter.. they're too small (16") for the new brakes. -Dave

Thanks for sharing.

LOL, so you are saying you are uniquely qualified to handle a trailer with mirrors, and you're holding everyone else to your standard? Lame. What about everyone who doesn't have millions of miles in a semi? Should everyone wanting to tow have to do that first? -Daver

There are bugs that will cause this regardless. Workaround is to go to the camera views and turn the lines back on.

Listing it on their website for sale is your opening for negotiation. If they aren't treating it like it's your truck, then there's no need for you too either. Thing is though, I assume you ordered it because you don't want any other truck? They'll know that and negotiation will be tougher. -Daver

Interesting that it's an RST, I assume that means it's the DFM 5.3 not the AFM 5.3?

I was also curious to see if the Denali chrome center grille would work in the AT4 body-colored outer grille ring/surround. Just shrinking it down the Denali chrome a bit, not eliminating it completely. If you do try any of it follow up and share pics!

Classier maybe, but terrible for night vision. BMW and Audi were great for that.. nice subtle red and/or orange clusters. Pontiac went a bit too far with their red but it was still a good thing in general. I guess since they all have bright LCD panels in them the individual switch lighting color is a moot point.