Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My 2004 Silverado LT 5.3 Towing our 26 ft Travel Trailer More pics with our boat coming soon

Beautiful truck i like the bed cover too

Posted

Mine wieghed in @ 7200 yesterday.....I don't get it. Its supposedly "dry" weight is 7500....??? And it has alot of gear in it?

 

I am not sure if the manufactures have any idea on the actual weights. Mine has been pretty close, mine showed 6900 dry and with all our gear and everything 7300 so I thought that was great. what length is yours? do you have people try and tell you its too big for your truck? I hate that, even when I show the scale ticket then their next argument is well good luck stopping...well I don't drive 80 towing the thing and I have trailer brakes.

Posted

 

I am not sure if the manufactures have any idea on the actual weights. Mine has been pretty close, mine showed 6900 dry and with all our gear and everything 7300 so I thought that was great. what length is yours? do you have people try and tell you its too big for your truck? I hate that, even when I show the scale ticket then their next argument is well good luck stopping...well I don't drive 80 towing the thing and I have trailer brakes.

It is 35' :) I was towing it with my 2010 Sierra, but i "used" the trailer as an excuse to upgrade to the 2015 Silverado. My scale numbers were 20lbs over the trucks 7600 so I guess I will leave a kid home when we go to Disney lol

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I've towed lots of stuff. No wonder my hitch is all worn out ... :rolleyes:

 

One pic is my signature below ...

 

 

 

EDIT: hit the wrong damn button. Forgot the rest!

 

 

Here's one of the heavier ones .... 9,600 lbs of coal on a 2k lb. trailer:

post-65085-0-89674700-1427034569_thumb.jpg

 

post-65085-0-15271000-1427034620_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-65085-0-89674700-1427034569_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-15271000-1427034620_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-89674700-1427034569_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-15271000-1427034620_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-89674700-1427034569_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-15271000-1427034620_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

More ...

 

post-65085-0-96448100-1427034720_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-65085-0-96448100-1427034720_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-96448100-1427034720_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-96448100-1427034720_thumb.jpg

Posted

Wow the pic limit on this site is really low .... :nonod:

 

I've got more, but I'll have to post 100x ...

post-65085-0-39931200-1427034791_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-39931200-1427034791_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-39931200-1427034791_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-39931200-1427034791_thumb.jpg

Posted

That trailer is MINT Matt - been wanting to grab one of those for hauling coal, but this state kills us in registration fees on trailers.

 

They changed the fee structure to go by trailer GVWR. On something like that it would probably cost us $300 per year here ... :nonod:

Posted (edited)

I've towed lots of stuff. No wonder my hitch is all worn out ... :rolleyes:

 

One pic is my signature below ...

 

 

 

EDIT: hit the wrong damn button. Forgot the rest!

 

 

Here's one of the heavier ones .... 9,600 lbs of coal on a 2k lb. trailer:

attachicon.gifCoal haul, 9,600 lb. load (2).JPG

 

attachicon.gifHeavy haul, Ford tractor loaded up.jpg

 

 

What do you mean your hitch is worn out??

Edited by NEFisher11
Posted
post-65085-0-88738600-1427032890_thumb.jpg

 

Posted

That trailer is MINT Matt - been wanting to grab one of those for hauling coal, but this state kills us in registration fees on trailers.

 

They changed the fee structure to go by trailer GVWR. On something like that it would probably cost us $300 per year here ... :nonod:

Ouch. I just paid plates and it was $60-70. Not too bad.
Posted

That's reasonable. For my 9,990 GVWR flatbed car hauler they wanted $180 PER YEAR, plus, $75 for a friggin title .. and then your local annual excise tax based on whatever they deem your trailer's value at. My town is better than most, but we're already getting nickeled and dimed to death by the state as it is!

 

On top of all this, if you run commercially, you have to get the trailer inspected too (another $35, plus waiting in line for up to an hour if it's towards the end of the month ...). :shakehead:

 

Someday I'm going to move the hell out of this bastion. I'm in a great neighborhood right now, so I'm sticking it out for the time being. Born and raised here, so it's tough. Our state government SUCKS. :fume: And they wonder why everyone registers their stuff out of state ...

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

That's reasonable. For my 9,990 GVWR flatbed car hauler they wanted $180 PER YEAR, plus, $75 for a friggin title .. and then your local annual excise tax based on whatever they deem your trailer's value at. My town is better than most, but we're already getting nickeled and dimed to death by the state as it is!

 

On top of all this, if you run commercially, you have to get the trailer inspected too (another $35, plus waiting in line for up to an hour if it's towards the end of the month ...). :shakehead:

 

Someday I'm going to move the hell out of this bastion. I'm in a great neighborhood right now, so I'm sticking it out for the time being. Born and raised here, so it's tough. Our state government SUCKS. :fume: And they wonder why everyone registers their stuff out of state ...

I just moved from the Peoples republic of MA to NH. I cant stand dealing with the RMV and or state goverment there. I bought a new trailer 3 years ago and got my excise tax bill in the mail from the town i lived in. They had the wrong value for it. (I bought it new from 2100 dollars) they valued it at 3500$. Went to townhall basically told me to pound sand and they get there values from the RMV and i would have to go to boston to fight it.

Edited by NEFisher11
Posted

That figures. :nonod: Just what I want to do - go pay tolls on the Mass Pike, sit in Boston traffic, hit 12 potholes & ruin more suspension components and bend rims, then spend an hour in more traffic because I made a wrong turn and got caught up on a bunch of one-way streets with no way back ... plus the $50 they charge now for the hearing on top of it all. No thanks!! What a racket Boston has going there ... :banghead:

 

Your smart moving to NH. If I was smart i would've went house hunting up there instead. Wife couldn't leave her job and family, so had to do what we had to do. We're poorer every day because of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...