Jump to content

2010 Usb

ddot

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 283
  • Created
  • Last Reply
VVT Enthusiast

VVT

Posted
Posted

Okay theres no USB port on the back of a 20934592 factory radio unfortunately. I took a couple of pics so any other cusious folks can have a gander. Dang... So close to perfection too. Looks like I'll be adding some kind of adapter kit not to try and make this all work. Either that or a new head unit altogether but not right now Im going to wait. Anyways heres some pics

post-83116-1289937010_thumb.jpg

post-83116-1289937018_thumb.jpg

post-83116-1289937010_thumb.jpg

post-83116-1289937018_thumb.jpg

post-83116-1289937010_thumb.jpg

post-83116-1289937018_thumb.jpg

post-83116-1289937010_thumb.jpg

post-83116-1289937018_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
jdubub Senior Enthusiast

jdubub

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I have a question,

I am getting a stereo with the USB port installed from a guy that is a mechanic at a dealership. Only $150 for a brand new pullout off a 2010, and for him to install and program.

1. You CAN control your ipod through the radio/steering wheel controls correct?

2. when he programs it im going to put my stock ECM & TCM because it will be at a dealer, but when i put my BB modules back in will the radio still work? Im not real sure what they sinc up to? (the radio)

dlewis1111 Senior Enthusiast

dlewis1111

Posted
Posted
Hey guys I have a question,

I am getting a stereo with the USB port installed from a guy that is a mechanic at a dealership. Only $150 for a brand new pullout off a 2010, and for him to install and program.

1. You CAN control your ipod through the radio/steering wheel controls correct?

2. when he programs it im going to put my stock ECM & TCM because it will be at a dealer, but when i put my BB modules back in will the radio still work? Im not real sure what they sinc up to? (the radio)

 

It will work when you swap your computers. The BCM is where the radio programming is held.

  • 2 weeks later...
GatorForum Enthusiast

GatorForum

Posted
Posted

I have a 2011 GMC with the low AM/FM radio only. The truck is not OnStar equipped. I want to replace my radio with a GM PART # 20934593 out of another 2011 GMC. Do this one have the USB? Would I need to get it prorgrammed to use or would it just work? I'd like the USB but I'd settle for the AUX IN and the CD/MP3.

radill Enthusiast

radill

Posted
Posted

Figured I would tack on this question about USB instead of creating a new post...I have a USB port in the center console of my 2011 CCSB. Anyone know if you can hook a 400GB external hard drive up and play music off that?

kdixer Enthusiast

kdixer

Posted
Posted
Figured I would tack on this question about USB instead of creating a new post...I have a USB port in the center console of my 2011 CCSB. Anyone know if you can hook a 400GB external hard drive up and play music off that?

 

 

Acording to the owners manual you can use an external hard drive. However I think it mentioned a size limit.

GatorForum Enthusiast

GatorForum

Posted
Posted
I have a 2011 GMC with the low AM/FM radio only. The truck is not OnStar equipped. I want to replace my radio with a GM PART # 20934593 out of another 2011 GMC. Do this one have the USB? Would I need to get it prorgrammed to use or would it just work? I'd like the USB but I'd settle for the AUX IN and the CD/MP3.

 

I got the USB information so I'm good there. I am ready to buy the radio but I was told it will not work in my truck cause of some code. I really do not have a clue what this means but I don't want to spend money on something that I can't use in my truck. Does anyone know what has to happen to make this radio work or will it work?

  • 4 weeks later...
summithighrise09 Enthusiast

summithighrise09

Posted
Posted

Thanks for this thread...im about to buy one off ebay that came out of a new burb. Anybody know what the difficulty level is on swapping it out for my single cd player hooking up my Ipod?

Thanks

Cam

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
762x51 Enthusiast

762x51

Posted
Posted
I have a 2011 GMC with the low AM/FM radio only. The truck is not OnStar equipped. I want to replace my radio with a GM PART # 20934593 out of another 2011 GMC. Do this one have the USB? Would I need to get it prorgrammed to use or would it just work? I'd like the USB but I'd settle for the AUX IN and the CD/MP3.

 

I got the USB information so I'm good there. I am ready to buy the radio but I was told it will not work in my truck cause of some code. I really do not have a clue what this means but I don't want to spend money on something that I can't use in my truck. Does anyone know what has to happen to make this radio work or will it work?

 

 

I just bought one off eBay and it has the USB port on the back for a USB miniB connector (like used on a lot of cameras). As I understand the swap, I'll have to take the truck with the replacement radio (20934593) by my dealer, have the tech erase the old VIN # and write my VIN # to the radio. Hopefully everything will work OK.....

 

Regards,

Orin

  • 3 weeks later...
MotoMedic Senior Enthusiast

MotoMedic

Posted
Posted

After upgrading to the USB radio several months ago I have three major complaints:

 

1) It won't read larger than an 8 GB flash drive!

 

2) The player reads the music folders on flash drive in the order you added them , not alphabetically! So if you have a ton of folders already and add say "Chevelle" to drive, it will be at the very end of the list!

 

3) Mine sometimes, randomly when starting the truck will start over at the beginning of the flash drive, instead of the point were it was when truck was turned off 4-5 hours before. I double checked all connections. Anyone else have this issue?

762x51 Enthusiast

762x51

Posted
Posted

I bought a # 20934593 GM radio off eBay and the plug and wire from my local dealer. I installed the USB port where the right power outlet had been and the installation was a snap - about 30 minutes - but I did have to modify the power outlet cover to work with the USB port. See photo...I used my Dremel tool and it took all of about a minute to grind away the plastic so it would close properly. The USB port was loose in the power outlet mounting but a dab of super glue fixed that.

 

I haven't tried a flash drive but an iPod works great. The only complaint I have with the installation is the dealer charged me $83 to reprogram the replacement receiver. They said they had never done one so I printed the instructions I found on this site and took it to them. Guess the charge would have been 3 times that if I had not given them the instructions - :D

post-87924-1298154709_thumb.jpg

post-87924-1298154727_thumb.jpg

post-87924-1298154709_thumb.jpg

post-87924-1298154727_thumb.jpg

post-87924-1298154709_thumb.jpg

post-87924-1298154727_thumb.jpg

post-87924-1298154709_thumb.jpg

post-87924-1298154727_thumb.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Aimatdeer
      Ac not keeping up

      By Aimatdeer · Posted

      I was using recirc/max air. Especially if it really hot i start out by lowering the front windows a little with regular ac the go to recirculation after a few and rolling windows up. And it does not have the newest refrigerant. It has per the info under the hood r134. Not the new r1234yf.  
    • Atlas
      AC diagnostic on a neo-classic Camaro

      By Atlas · Posted

      tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Byrds8
      Ac not keeping up

      By Byrds8 · Posted

      Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 
    • KARNUT
      Ac not keeping up

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I call B.S. when I first moved to Texas my first house would only cool to 80 with the Texas heat. The AC tech said it was normal at 100 degrees outside. I remodeled the house put in a new AC. I could hang meat. My cars may need recirculating to start. Once moving it switches to regular AC and I could hang meat. Living in Texas no one would put up with only 20 degrees difference. 
    • Silverado4x4
      Ac not keeping up

      By Silverado4x4 · Posted

      AC in home or auto only cool down 15-25 degrees from outside temp, but what will help is to put the ac in recirc mode this will recirc the Inside cabin air rather then trying to cool down the outside hot air, I always have mine in recirc mode.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...