Jump to content

Any Plumbers Here?

RyanbabZ71

By RyanbabZ71
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

Any professional plumbers here? I would like to add water (hot water line for sure) to my garage. Is this possible (or against code). My laundry room is on the opposite wall as my garage so there are lines there. What all is involved? Here are some photos of the laundry room and the outside wall in the garage.

 

Thanks!

DSC03828.JPG

DSC03829.JPG

DSC03828.JPG

DSC03829.JPG

DSC03828.JPG

DSC03829.JPG

DSC03828.JPG

DSC03829.JPG

GPSilverado Enthusiast

GPSilverado

Posted
Posted

And I can't help with the plumbing either, but it does look like it is time to change the oil in the Tahoe.

 

Actually, if it were me, here in SC, I would cut the drywall on the garage side, and just add the water faucets in the garage by T-ing into the lines. Not sure if the water lines would be Copper pipes there or not.

 

I'm sure there are plumbers on the site though for proper information.

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
, but it does look like it is time to change the oil in the Tahoe.

 

Today. Running mobil1 and that info is based on 3 month/3000K miles. I am just now getting to the 3K mark between the last change. OLM is at like 50%???

music Senior Enthusiast

music

Posted
Posted

I'm not a plumber, but I've done my fair share.

 

The short answer is that you probably have an easy job to do for the supply, but you have to get into the wall and find the supplies and the drain. The drain "can" be difficult to get access for teeing in. Utility water is not separate from potable in residential construction, so you can tie straight into the supply lines. You'll learn a few (not obvious) things, and you should allow some time when cutting into the existing lines. An experienced person could do the cut-in in less than an hour (maybe much less, depending on access to the drain), but you should allow more time to account for things not going well. Do you have copper, pvc or pex supply lines? PVC (~1980's and newer) or iron (some 70's, and earlier) drains? First step... you have to cut into the drywall on the garage side to see what you have.

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

House was built in 03. Since the garage has to have fire rated drywall (code) I assume it would have to be copper piping i would have to use?

music Senior Enthusiast

music

Posted
Posted
House was built in 03. Since the garage has to have fire rated drywall (code) I assume it would have to be copper piping i would have to use?

 

Existing supply is likely copper or pvc, but probably not pex. The drywall provides the fire rating. A few minutes with a keyhole saw will tell the tale :thumbs: If you cut the drywall stud to stud (maybe even between two [32 in]), you can screw blocking to the studs and put the same piece of drywall back into place, then tape/mud/paint.

Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted

Ryan,

 

Looks like an easy job. Just need to find out what your water lines are now. You can adapt to them accordingly. What do you plan on doing? Putting in a sink to wash up in after working on the vehilces and such? I would take it the house is up with a crawl space and so the drain will be just below the floor level of the house.

 

You can use PVC, copper, or even pex. I probably am the only one that doesn't worry about code, I'm the home owner and since I grew up learning from my dad and he just did what he wanted I just followed in his footsteps. When our garage was built after the inspector came by, I put all the plumbing in myself from the house. Is it right probably not, but what is it going to hurt? I can say this much, it is sweet having a sink in the garage with hot water to clean up in and not worry about making a mess in the house.

yukon25008.1 Senior Enthusiast

yukon25008.1

Posted
Posted

my trade is hvac.. but lately and over the years its more plumbing than anything else.

just open up the garage wall on the oppisite side of the washer box, and take your hot and cold from there, you could do copper or pex your choice, but if the garage isnt heated i would use pex it will withstand temps better and never burst or break if it did ever freeze.

you wont affect anything in the home just adding a 1/2" hot and cold to the garage...

570-656-2466 , call me anytime for help if you need it.

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The house is on a slab. I dont know about a wash tube there isnt much room (I park right by this wall). I would mainly like water lines for washing vehicles (hot water for winter) and the garage floor. Easier than hauling out a hose to around the side of the house.

NARDA1 Enthusiast

NARDA1

Posted
Posted

Is your garage heated? If not, you're going to have a problem with the supply lines and drain freezing and causing leaks in the wall.

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no it is not heated but it is insulated. I do have a thermometer and even when it gets below freezing (this past week it was 5 deg in the morning) outside I have never seen it below 30 deg in the garage.

8.1HD/ALLISON Senior Enthusiast

8.1HD/ALLISON

Posted
Posted

Should be ok. Since the lines are in the interior wall of the house, even if it was a little below freezing in the garage the pipes shouldn't freeze up. Looks like a pretty easy job.

GasHog369 Senior Enthusiast

GasHog369

Posted
Posted

I have the exact setup you are trying to do with a wash tub in our garage.

 

Laundry room is behind where we put a T on the line and ran thru wall.. I live in buffalo ny... It gets a little cold here and winterlike :lol:

 

Our garage is not heated but insulated well.... Although if the garage door is left open for extended times, remember that any exposed pipe coming thru the wall will freeze quick. Insulation is your key here... Wrap the pipes good!

 

Do yourself a favor and put shutoff valves in the inside of the hose for the lines to the garage... This way if it is extremely cold you can shut off the lines and drain the faucet and you wont have to worry about them freezing. Thats what we usually do when the high temps dont exceed 10 :thumbs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • GMC4Zee
      PPE Transmission Pan Install

      By GMC4Zee · Posted

      Is this the pan everyone is talking about PPE Power 128051910 . this can be gotten from JEGS. 
    • Texas Gasser
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By Texas Gasser · Posted

      My truck is a 2024 2500 LT crew cab with the 6.6 gas engine and 10 speed trans.  It has a payload of 3578 lbs.  We pull a 22' Grand Design 17MKE that has dry weight of 5006 lbs. and a gross weight of 6395 lbs.  The trailer weighs about 5800 lbs. when loaded up with all the gear.  I don't fill the water tank for travel as most of our trips are to state parks that are within a day's drive.  Depending on the wind I get anywhere from 7.5 to 9 mpg.  I do use a weight distribution hitch (WDH) and have no problems with sway or being pulled/pushed side to side by 18-wheelers passing by me.  The trailer is about the same length of the truck so that helps a lot.  I say that because we traded in our 33' Grand Design 2670 MK (7800 lbs. loaded with gear) and using the same WDH, it would get pulled side to side by big trucks passing by me. It was not bad, but you needed to stay alert and know when a big truck was pulling up beside you.  I got about 7 to 8 mpg pulling that trailer.  I normally drive about 65 to 67 mph when pulling.  Overall, I love the payload capability of the truck as I doubt I will ever get close to its limit and I love the stability it offers over a half ton truck while pulling a trailer.  I have just over 30000 miles on the truck and have not had any issues.  We live in Texas where it is relatively flat, just windy. 
    • Chuck FB
      Gas Prices

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will say though that the 5.00 a gallon for only one fuel stop while on the Number 1, that privilege of driving from the point of Paso Robles ( where I fueled up before crossing to the coast ) and all the way up ... across the Golden Gate where I stopped and walked on the bridge ( and someone jumped off the bridge opposite the side I was on ... never saw it happen but the tow truck/paramedic told me ) and continued on north back onto No 1 and all the way up to where it connects to 101 and also explored some of the Red Woods although had been through some of that before. The fantastic view of that scenic ocean route was most certainly worth the extra dollars I spent on fuel. Just prior to that I had driven through Death Valley and that was some experience in the middle of July, then spent a couple of days in Yosemite and hiked to the top of Half Dome. The summer of 2007 was very memorable for what I saw and experienced in California.
    • AndrewF
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By AndrewF · Posted

      Really depends on what extent the towing is.  Are you going across the country on highways or to fairly local campgrounds?  If you're just local towing then I wouldn't derate your truck much, just make sure the weight of your trailer and equipment stays below your limit.  Which for my truck is 14500lbs bumper pull.  Yeah it will work hard when you're over 5 figures in weight but who cares if it is just say 50 miles.    In my opinion the main thing with towing campers is wind resistance.  My 3200lb single axle camper tows fairly hard for what it is due to the wind.  But then if I use my truck to tow a family members 8000lb camper it doesn't really feel any different as wind resistance is similar. I've also towed a 5000lb airstream and it barely felt like anything was there.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I think the excitement has run its course. Or, probably need a break from the truck for a few days.   Win some, lose some, again. There was still a coolant weep from the front of the engine. This time it was one of those worm-drive hose clamps on the upper hose connecting to the water neck. There's a reason the factory doesn't use those type of clamps; they suck. The hose is all distorted and flared at the end from someone over-tightening it. The water neck just needed to be cleaned, hose seated, and have a *good* hose clamp put on, if the hose wasn't so mangled.   Thought I'd kill two birds with one stone and try to diagnose the EGR issue. It's likely a failed EGR but before I spent $85 on the part I wanted to make sure ports weren't clogged or the pintle wasn't stuck. It was kind of a bugger to remove with the upper intake installed. Re-install (because I wanted to drive it) proved more difficult.   Per the stack of service paperwork, the EGR has already been replaced 4 times since 1996.   It would reason, then, that the EGR flange on the lower intake manifold has had its share of techs trying to work quickly and maybe one of them seated a bolt slightly cross-threaded at one time. The bolt didn't come out without significant effort and tried as I did, it wouldn't go in without significant effort. And then, the mounting ear on the right side of the EGR (lower intake casting) cracked, and crumbled off. $%&@!!!   I hate everything. Or, at least, I did in that moment. I was pretty calm, considering. This is what older, junky vehicles do. They nickel and dime their owners, piss them off, and things break that shouldn't break because of shoddy design/workmanship, poorly done repairs.   If I want to make it right, I'll need to replace the lower intake manifold and basically re-do everything I spent days doing. At least it should go quicker this time, right?! Looks like a lower intake (used/junk, of course) will run me about $150.   Once I get the new EGR, I'll see if I can bolt it up snug enough to verify proper operation, and if it solves the persistent CEL that sets on decel for EGR flow, I'll know I'm back on the right track. And then I can decide how to proceed.   Also, an idler pulley has given up. It began squeaking in pain on startup. It's clear this truck hasn't been thoroughly driven in a long, long time as things are just letting go and shaking out. I may have given it the beans once or twice to make sure my intake gaskets were doing their job. Flog an old vehicle, expect what it gives in return.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...