Is Your Gmt-900 Truck Or Suv Using Oil

[Jsdirt]

........

 

My question for the forum is has anyone switched from the recommended 5W or synthetic?

 

I'm running Amsoil, and I recently switched to 10w-30. After this, my oil analysis results improved tremendously. I had high iron & aluminum on the first analysis.

 

Synthetics are far superior to regular dino oil in every way. I think the weights the automakers recommend are on the side of EPA fuel mileage / emission requirements, and not on your side, as far as engine longevity goes.

 

Remember - automakers want to sell you more cars. They aren't interested in making it last 30 years. This is painfully apparent in the 21st century ...

[Cowpie]

Well, one thing that seems to never get discussed regarding oils is the add pack that makes up 20-25% of any quart of motor oil. Synthetics do have an edge over conventional in some respects, but the best synthetic mixed with a lousy add pack is not something I want in my engine either. Synthetic base stocks do have better qualities than conventional base stocks, but when the finished blended product gets bottled up, that is when an oil proves it's worth. I am a strong proponent of synthetics, in some applications, and syn blends in others. But my primary motivation regarding any oil choice is the combination makeup of oil base stock along the add pack, the HTHS number of the oil, the NOACK of the oil, etc. One has to dig a little to find out those kind of details (and learn how it matters), but it makes for a more informed consumer choice. Just because a motor oil is synthetic does not make it great. Motor oils are blends of a whole bunch of stuff. Detergents, extreme pressure improvers, friction modifiers, acid neutralizers, oxidation reducers, viscosity improvers, and a host of stuff that the base oil, synthetic or conventional, cannot do by itself.

[flying1bob]

Well I voted, as per below at this time the oil consumption has been addressed with the hope that a permanent solution has taken place.



Bought a loaded 2010 Silverado LTZ used with 90,000k's. Had no idea about the 5.3 oil
burner until I started adding 1L of oil every 1000k. Dropped into the dealer and was
placed on the oil management program, that's when I came to these types of sites to see what I was dealing with. Well after 4 trips to the dealer x 4 liters of oil in 4000k's
they took her off the road and replaced the bottom end, bearings, connecting rods,
Pistons and rings. I kept requesting lifters and a cam but they would only Pony up on
two worn push rods & two rocker arms. I had to argue and won (big deal) two lifters to go with the rods and rockers that were replaced. Before they put the old girl back together, I made it clear that if they would not change out the oil pump that at least tear in down and make sure its good, which they did. Well I have her back on the road with two years of extended warranty left and I refused to go off the oil program because I'm sure the top end will need to be replaced before long as I stated to the dealer at the time. Over all the
service provided me by the dealer was top notch. The fact that only part of this repair
(bottom end)was addressed is my only concern. So I wait to see just what might be around the corner with this 5.3 motor. The rest of the truck is mighty fine.

Feel free to advise me on your thoughts Guys/Gals going forward.

Edited April 28, 2016 by flying1bob

[Cowpie]

Wonder how cost would have compared to do all that to the motor as opposed to getting a remanned crate motor (without AFM) and dropping it in and starting afresh. I realize warranty was involved so that limits how things were done, but I have learned over the years that sometimes it works out best sometimes to just swap out motors when things get this messy. It tends to be more cost effective overall, especially as opposed to only getting portions of the motor done at a time like the dealer did. I view downtime as part of any cost also. And taking the approach the dealer is, really racks up the downtime.

[Jsdirt]

Bottom line is, an engine will only burn oil due to shoddy machine work, or bad valve seals, or head gasket material. Block or heads shouldn't be cracked off the showroom floor, so we'll leave those out.

 

If I let a mower or motorcycle engine leave here burning oil like that, I'd be out of business in a month! I've never had an engine that I've rebuilt smoke, or burn oil after the break-in period. EVER. For a major manufacturer to send engines out like this is an utter disgrace at the very least .

 

I, personally, would much rather have a crate motor installed that was built by a company that does nothing but engines day in and day out (Jasper, for example), unless I planned on dumping the truck on the next victim ...

[flying1bob]

Hi guys thanks for the comments, back in the day I was a weekend stock car driver mechanic loved it, no better rush then being mid pack waiting for the flag to drop.

 

Anyways spent many days & nights building and racing, so when I got the new from the dealer as to what they were prepared to do I couldn't believe they were only going after the bottom end. I know better and when she is torn down you replace everything that moves.

 

I have a 103,000 k's the bore on all on the cylinders were 3.7798 to 3.7797 so all in all that part I can live with.

It's Timing chain/Gears, Rockers/Rods, Cam & bearings and most of all those pesky lifters which were not attended to. That's why I will be coming back to the dealer in time, I just hope its less then two years, cause then its my coin.

[Jsdirt]

I'd be more concerned with the piston/cylinder clearance than any of those components. That's not to say that they couldn't fail - it's the 21st century after all.

 

I run cast pistons on 2-stroke motorcycles at .0025" - larger for forged. I hear the 5.3's run .003 -.004" ... I'd rather .003" .

Edited April 29, 2016 by Jsdirt

[robroy]

I took Bad Bowtie2's advice and ordered a Range AFM canceler. Turn around by auto anything was pretty good. Easy plug in install for the range. The little black box showed up on a friday and that day I left for the coast for a weekend getaway with the girlfriend. Up and through California's winding coastal mountains I was getting 18+ MPG which which is as good or maybe better than what I could get before the range. I did not notice any oil burn but I only logged 400-500 miles. The engine feels like it has a bit more gitty up and the transmission shifts smooth (go figure). Oil consumption is all I care about, so far so good.

[Jsdirt]

Yeah, those work great. Best thing I ever did to my truck. Wish I had known about it 9 years ago (probably wasn't available then, but still) ...

[Bad Bowtie2]

I took Bad Bowtie2's advice and ordered a Range AFM canceler. Turn around by auto anything was pretty good. Easy plug in install for the range. The little black box showed up on a friday and that day I left for the coast for a weekend getaway with the girlfriend. Up and through California's winding coastal mountains I was getting 18+ MPG which which is as good or maybe better than what I could get before the range. I did not notice any oil burn but I only logged 400-500 miles. The engine feels like it has a bit more gitty up and the transmission shifts smooth (go figure). Oil consumption is all I care about, so far so good.

​Glad to hear your initial review on The Range.

 

Any updates now?

-Jon in TX.

[robroy]

I have had the range installed about 2 months and oil burn has stopped, so far as I can tell. Fuel consumption is harder to gauge. I am in my busy season and I do a lot of driving around farm lands at 15mph, or idling, towing, stepping on it to catch so and so. Compared to last years fuel average I'm down a mpg, but I don't think thats really a proper comparison as I'm not your typical driver this time of the year.

[Mpalmer]

There are many topics out there and no real data between members. Hopefully this will catch some data and show a real story. Please be thruthful with your selections.

 

Please only post oil consumtion concerns here and please stay on topic. Please no long debates about AFM people either love it or hate it we all understand this.

 

Thanks!

 

Starting to wonder about how much oil my 2012 5.3L Vortec Silverado is using. Looking to find out if the holes on the dip stick mean anything or if from the bottom of the hash marks to the top is one litre of oil. Thanks you

[LexusMate-GMCSierra]

After purchasing a used 2102 GMC 1500 Extended cab SLT with the 5.3L, with 47K miles. I came across this sight and have been concerned about oil consumption. I have had many GM products over the years and that was one area I never worried about. So far after (2) 5,000 mile oil changes I have not had any oil consumption to date. I average about 1500 miles a month. Mostly highway miles to work and various other road trips. No towing at this time. As in some of the other posts, 5,000 miles for an oil change is enough for this engine. I appreciate the posted info and will update my engine experience as well.

[Jsdirt]

Mine started burning somewhere between 50-55k miles.

[Colossus]

just keep checking your oil at your gas fill-ups and try not to stress out about it too much.