Jump to content

Is Your Gmt-900 Truck Or Suv Using Oil

RyanbabZ71
 Share

Is your GMT-900 using oil  

1,555 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

eddiefromcali Enthusiast

eddiefromcali

Posted
Posted

If it were me, I'd run 20W-50 if I were using that much oil.

 

The way I see it, the engine is pretty much junk anyway. Not going to hurt much running a heavier oil. I saw a big decline in piston and ring wear metals in my oil analysis by switching from 5w-30 to 10w-30. Even though the "10" is rating it's cold flow properties, it's an overall higher viscosity oil, which helped alot in my case.

 

I just wish I had started doing this right out of the gate

 

^that....as long as 20w is ok for your cold start ambient temps, you could run that and be ok.

  • Replies 825
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

GuyGene
GuyGene

I've been watching this oil usage issue a long time now. Sick of it. My '96 5.7 used NO oil! And I could get 20 mpg highway. Extended cab, loooong bed too. Dagnabbit, GM is running customers away.

Jsdirt
Jsdirt

Yep - they've forced alot of manufacturers to cut corners just to survive.   The EPA has done more harm to this nation the past 20 years than good. Another gigantic, bloated, goverment bureaucracy t

Cowpie
Cowpie

It is a sad testament to GM quality. My factory remanned 12.7L Detroit, 704,000 miles into its second life, only uses about 1 qt per 10,000 miles. Just did oil change on it at 21,580 miles on the oi

Posted Images

need-for-speed Enthusiast

need-for-speed

Posted
Posted

come to think of it, it was probably the valve covers. That little occurrence was maybe 5 years ago, so my memory is a little fuzzy.

 

I was hoping that's what you meant. Thanks rob Roy!

need-for-speed Enthusiast

need-for-speed

Posted
Posted

Received my Range plug in today. It says not to leave it plugged in vehicles that are not driven daily. Battery drain is the reason. I only drive my truck in the weekends. I keep my truck on a battery tender, so I figure it's not an issue. But still, I'm curious. Do any of you have any issues with this?

  • Like 1
Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Same here.

 

I'm running an Odyssey battery, but I don't think this thing draws that much extra to make a huge difference.

 

I just filled my tank the other day - last time I filled it was the first week of May, so that tells you how much it sits. I throw my charger on it at least once a month, or sooner if I remember. Had the Range for over a year now, and never a dead, or even weak, battery.

Edited by Jsdirt
scogeb Enthusiast

scogeb

Posted
Posted

Hello all, I need help. I've got an '11 Yukon 5.3 with AFM, 114,000 miles and it seems to be eating around 2-3 quarts every 3000 miles. Good or bad, I don't drive it much and never tow anything, so oil consumption is difficult to read. I do get the puff of smoke when I start it after driving it "hard" which really just means running it 75 mph or accelerating quickly.

 

What are my options? Should I just trade it in on a '14 or newer or what year doesn't have this issue?

 

I'm not a mechanic, but I take it to my small town mechanic where I live who I know and trust and they do good work. Should I have them do something to it to try to fix it?

 

I've only had it for about 8 months, man I wish I would've found this before I bought it. :(

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

When I have a new vehicle that burns oil, the last thing I'd want to do is trade it in on ANOTHER vehicle by the same manufacturer. If they can't get it right the first time, what makes you think a '14 or newer will be any better? I'd strongly suggest looking at Ram, or even Ford. Ram seems to have their crap together more than the other 2 ...

 

There's alot of options - none of them even remotely cheap, unfortunately. Could rebuild what you've got, drop a new crate motor in, tear it down and only repair the problem (which could be alot of things), drop in a used junkyard engine, buy a parts truck and do a swap, etc..

 

What you can afford will dictate which of those you choose. Junkyard engines are the cheapest route ... but that engine could be EXACTLY the same problem child as what you just yanked out ... only with more miles on it. Crate is the way to go, but HOLY CRAP wait until you see the cost of THAT ... then if you're paying someone to do the job, plan on another grand or more on top of all that. I HATE the LS engine ...

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello all, I need help. I've got an '11 Yukon 5.3 with AFM, 114,000 miles and it seems to be eating around 2-3 quarts every 3000 miles. Good or bad, I don't drive it much and never tow anything, so oil consumption is difficult to read. I do get the puff of smoke when I start it after driving it "hard" which really just means running it 75 mph or accelerating quickly.

 

What are my options? Should I just trade it in on a '14 or newer or what year doesn't have this issue?

 

I'm not a mechanic, but I take it to my small town mechanic where I live who I know and trust and they do good work. Should I have them do something to it to try to fix it?

 

I've only had it for about 8 months, man I wish I would've found this before I bought it. :(

If you use it sparingly why buy again?

I would try a Range to disable AFM first or run it in manual in 5th gear so it can't engage AFM. Check back here for used or new for $200 I think. :happysad:

Edited by diyer2
  • Like 1
Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

The Range is great - I've had one for over a year now. Doesn't cure the oil burning, unfortunately. At least not in my case.

  • Like 1
scogeb Enthusiast

scogeb

Posted
Posted

I should've said I love everything about this Yukon except the oil consumption, and I really don't mind that if the engine holds together and I'm not dumping a bunch of money into it for repairs.

 

I'll research this Range thing and maybe go with that. I'm guessing my mechanic would be able to install it?

 

How can I find out if damage is already done to the engine? What should I have my mechanic look into?

 

Thanks!

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

The Range just plugs into your data link connector under the steering column - anyone can handle that.

 

The oil burning in and of itself says the engine isn't right. Really not worth the diagnostic time ($$$) to find out the exact reason why. My guess is GM cheaped out on piston ring material, and it has worn out LONG before it should have ... or the piston/cylinder clearance is too large, also due to bad QC & manufacturing practices.

 

GM's priority these days is saving money. They could care less about the customer (or their own techs ... but that's a story for another day).

  • Like 1
Bad Bowtie2 Enthusiast

Bad Bowtie2

Posted
Posted (edited)

Received my Range plug in today. It says not to leave it plugged in vehicles that are not driven daily. Battery drain is the reason. I only drive my truck in the weekends. I keep my truck on a battery tender, so I figure it's not an issue. But still, I'm curious. Do any of you have any issues with this?

 

I loved the Range when I had it on my 2012. I would unplug mine once a month or when my truck would sit for a week (vacations). I used a strip of black electrical tape over hose LED lights- Hated that at night time.

 

Never had an issue though...

Edited by Bad Bowtie2
Bad Bowtie2 Enthusiast

Bad Bowtie2

Posted
Posted (edited)

I should've said I love everything about this Yukon except the oil consumption, and I really don't mind that if the engine holds together and I'm not dumping a bunch of money into it for repairs.

 

I'll research this Range thing and maybe go with that. I'm guessing my mechanic would be able to install it?

 

How can I find out if damage is already done to the engine? What should I have my mechanic look into?

 

Thanks!

 

Definitely get a Range module, easy to plug in & out. It uses the data port plug down by your left knee (when your driving). Just add a strip of black electrical tape over the LED lights (trust me).

 

I would have the spark plugs checked/changed with AC Delco's, only run regular Dino oil & change it every 3 months/3K with an AC Delco Ultra Guard Gold filter. Also have him install an updated left valve cover- Improved baffle design.

 

Try all these out for a few oil changes & then let us know what your decision is...

Edited by Bad Bowtie2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...