Photos Of My 76 Long Bed 454 Big Block

jseabolt · May 4, 2011

Here's some pics of my dad's 76 pickup:

http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd148/t...0Chevy%20truck/

As mentioned in earlier posts it's a long bed, trailer special, 454 big block, turbo 400 transmission, whatever differential they installed in it.

It's been as far NW as Idaho, as far SE as Florida, as far NE as Quebec, Myrtle Beach about 20 times and Pigeon Forge TN about 50 times all pulling a 30 feet camper.

It got about 10 mpg when new, 8 mpg when pulling a camper but now get's about 6 to 8 mpg just tooling around town. You can see the gas guage drop when all four barrels are open!

I found a non bowed hood for it for $50. I haven't looked at it yet. The guy said it had some rust but since the truck is rusty to begin with, that's not a concern.

I asked dad what he wants to do with this truck and since he bought it new and it's been in the family so long he wants me to paint it and fix whatever it needs. I told him only if he built a shed to keep it out of the weather and he agreed. I don't want my work to be done in vain.

Having lots of experience with rust treatment/repair on old Fiats I think I can stop the rust and repair the holes with fiberglass so it won't keep coming back as long as it's kept out of the weather. Cars don't last that long here in the southeast if left outside.

He thinks it needs new a floor in the bed but once again I beleive once the rust is treated, fiberglassed and coated with a rubber bed coating, it should be OK. That stuff is also great for undercoating. Allot better than the asphalt stuff. Good for fixing rusted out cowls on old Fords where leaves have cloged the drain holes.

I'm thinking pulling the fuel tanks to replace the dry rotted hoses is going to be a big deal. I can't switch over to the passenger side tank, otherwise the return line leaks fuel onto the muffler.

Now the issue is finding time to work on it.

So what do you guys think? Worth fixing up or taking to the metal recycler? The truck runs great just needs some TLC.

Stevens03 · May 4, 2011

Def. worth fixing. Theres a million aftermarket parts out there for that truck

Blue_Z71 · May 5, 2011

Aww shucks, my '84 started a lot rougher than that! It just takes time (and money) if you plan on doing it right the first time. I did a frame-off restoration, bought everything (and I mean EVERYTHING imaginable) from LMC and Jegs. Turned a nice little tinker of a 4.3L/T400 truck into a fire breathing 383ci beast - and it looks like it just came off the showroom floor. I love the results, but man that was a lot of work.

End result

Even redid the interior

grampadirt · May 5, 2011

Love the old trucks.Definately fix 'er up.I had a '77 GMC much like yours,loved that truck

Yeah,dropping the tanks is a pain but necessary to replace the old rotten fuel lines.You'll be glad you did.

soumilpaul · May 6, 2011

nice pics man and good job................

txab · May 6, 2011

I'd pull the bed. Easier than dropping 2 tanks. As for switching tanks, check the valve underneath the truck as well as the switch.

Doug_Scott · May 6, 2011

Given that you can get virtually every panel and all the interior parts for that year truck, I would not use fiberglass to patch it up.

GMstrong · May 6, 2011

I was looking at the same truck same motor but just black.It was up for sale i called the number no answer so i passed on it.Nice truck.

jseabolt · May 8, 2011

I'd pull the bed. Easier than dropping 2 tanks. As for switching tanks, check the valve underneath the truck as well as the switch.

How many bolts hold the bed to the frame and how much does it weigh? Is this something four people could do?

I'd like to flip the bed upside down to fix any rust underneath the bed and replace the carrier bearing while I'm at it.

By the way, any idea what "model" this truck is? There is a K10, K20, C10, C20 among others. I'm guess those models indicate dually, fleetside, stepside, etc.

All I know is it's a Trailering Special, 454 big block, long bed, non dually. 3/4 ton, 2 wheel drive.

StinkyCheese · May 8, 2011

I'd pull the bed. Easier than dropping 2 tanks. As for switching tanks, check the valve underneath the truck as well as the switch.

How many bolts hold the bed to the frame and how much does it weigh? Is this something four people could do?

I'd like to flip the bed upside down to fix any rust underneath the bed and replace the carrier bearing while I'm at it.

By the way, any idea what "model" this truck is? There is a K10, K20, C10, C20 among others. I'm guess those models indicate dually, fleetside, stepside, etc.

All I know is it's a Trailering Special, 454 big block, long bed, non dually. 3/4 ton, 2 wheel drive.

Looks like my '73 that I have. It's not the camper edition and has the 350 but basically the same body. As far I know, and I could be wrong, Yours is probably a C series unless it's 4wd then it would be K. the 10/20/30 after the c/k is like you said to differentiate between 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton and 1 ton models. lmctruck.com is where I got a lot of parts for mine. If you're ever out near Dallas, or probably anywhere in Texas for that matter, visit the junk yards there. The junk yards here in Orlando suck and since everything rusts fairly quick nothing really old lasts long either. The three or four junk yards I went to while outside of Dallas a few years back were huge by comparison. I think the 3 bigger ones here in Orlando would have fit in one of the ones I went to in Texas. Plus they have a ton of trucks since Texas is truck country. Parts don't rust anywhere near as quick so you can probably find mint parts pretty cheap.

Good luck on your restoration job I just wish I could afford to have mine done again.