Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello. I'm a newbe here.

 

I first had a check engine light for some knock sensors. I went and replaced those, took off the intake manifold, replaced the seals, cleaned my injectors, and put everything back. Torqued down the manifold screws to 44 in-lbs then 89 in-lbs, put all the hoses back, cleaned the throttle body, and re-installed the EGR hose.

 

The Knock sensor codes cleared and about a day later got new codes, P0171 & P0174. Did some research and it could be a vacuum leak. So I went back make sure everything was on right with some carburetor cleaner and found that the EGR hose had a leak where it plugs into the manifold. I bought a new o-ring gasket and re-installed it, drove it around for a while and the fault cleared.

 

The truck was running nice. Even a rattling nose it had upon hard acceleration went away. Tons of power and acceleration. Two days later the same P0171 & P0174 codes came back. I am at a dead end. Could be the MAF, O2 sensors, injectors, ect, but I don't think that is likely because the truck was running without any codes until I messed with the intake manifold.

 

I can still hear a leak where the EGR hose plugs into the manifold. I am thinking of using RTV around that damn hose.

Any advise. Sorry for the long post, I needed to vent.

 

Silverado, 2001, 5.3, 4WD

Posted

This story sounds kinda familiar. I ruined my knock sensors by washing my engine. Before this, I had an engine "rattle" under hard acceleration just as you mentioned. While my knock sensors were "broken" the rattle went away. It was then that I realized that the rattle was the engine pinging. While the knock sensors were "broken' the PCM was running a "safe" ignition map and the pinging was gone. I removed the intake, replaced the the knock senors put it all back together. The knock sensor error went away, and the pinging came back. I've been trying to get rid of it ever since.

If you attach a scan tool to your truck and watch your bank values you want them to be a close to zero as possible. If they negative or postive more than a certain value (I think its 24) then a rich or lean code is thrown. (you might already know this).

  • 2 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
    • I wonder kind of nuts and bolts they will come up with next? Jim
    • “It should be recognized, however, that there becomes a point where fuel economy oils do not make much economic sense for the end consumer—we talk about a fuel saving of ~€100 compared to a risk of €1000 Euros if the oil is too thin and causes increased engine wear rates. However, the benefit of these oils accrues to the car manufacturers. If their vehicles can save 1–2% fuel by using a special fuel economy lubricant, then that OEM can drastically reduce the amount of fines they need to pay.”   I liked this and the following paragraph as well but it’s really only touching the beginning of the benefits OEMs see from spec’ing these oils. After you factor in “out of warranty” service work and new car sales when these engines fail before their time, it’s a good racket for them. Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you!
    • Too much voodoo and snake oil.   Time to go EV    😉
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...